95 Mustang Winter Build for CMC 2010

[JermBua]

Why not use the wet newspaper method, only takes a few seconds to pull out that bearing. Makes it very easy to do when under a car on jackstands.

That doesn't always work on this type of pilot bearing. It's a great idea for most. Ford, for some reason, has the hardest one to remove at times. If the rollers look ok just grease the bearing.

Edited February 24, 2010 by Guest

[DrC]

Well the weekend did not go as planned. Everything came off ok, I had a little kit from Harber Frate that pull the Pilot bearing out after some good pulls. After cleaning everything up and was looking at the Dowel Pins on the flywheel, one was missing. It was Sat and I could not find any place that had one so that shut that down for the weekend.

After Seal and pilot bearing removed.

[/img]

[DrC]

These are my new parts for the build. I have pictures of most everything I am doing in case there are any questions about my car.

 

New Ford Flywheel

New Spec 1 Clutch

[DrC]

So this weekend I dropped working on the drive train and started looking at my Electrical needs. I had this in mind so I put it together and painted it with some paint I had on the shelf. I should not need all the switches but I have them if I need them. I also have a 8 bank Fuse holder along with a starter button.

Control Panel still to be installed.

[FBody383]

Control Panel still to be installed.

 

Sweet.

[JermBua]

Wow!! The harbor freight tool worked? That tool has never worked for me. The finger would break before the bearing came out. Good job. The flywheel is balanced with the rotating assembly. A local machine shop can match it up to the old flywheel. If not there usually only a few grams off.

[DrC]

Has anyone installed a new Ford Rear Seal? I picked up a new Fel-Pro box an it had a National Brand seal in it. I checked another location and it also had a National Brand Seal. I installed it, hope to not have a issue later down the road.

Edited March 10, 2010 by Guest

[DrC]

Finally got the new Spec Clutch install.

[DrC]

More Pictures of the build.

Edited March 9, 2010 by Guest

[stevemichael]

Cut the rest of that door out and don't worry if the new rear main drips. Fords leak every fluid out you fill them with.

[nasa-rm]

Change the clutch quadrant while you're in there with the dash out. It'll save a lot of headache later trying to do it upside down.

[Adam Ginsberg]

Out of curiosity, what are the specs for the SPEC clutch, and what did you pay?

[TurboShortBus]

Clean up some of those sharp, sawzalled areas on the door, as they will do a good bit of damage to you during a hasty exit or even while you're tinkering in the garage. You wouldn't want to snag your $600 fire suit on them and rip something, either.

 

Mark

 

Edited March 8, 2010 by Guest

[92MNstanger]

Clean up some of those sharp, sawzalled areas on the door, as they will do a good bit of damage to you during a hasty exit or even while you're tinkering in the garage. You wouldn't want to snag your $600 fire suit on them and rip something, either.

 

Mark

 

[/img]

 

I hate seeing those edges at all. Why is that part of the door not in the garbage? It can be revomed and it's presence only creates a pinch point and sharp edge.

[DrC]

Clutch quadrant- I was thinking the same thing, picked one up today, it is a quick release one that I have wanted to try. Will let you know how it works. If I do not like it - it will be out of there.

Spec Stage 1, This is their basic organic clutch good up to around 290 Torque which they rate their stuff on the low side. I have a Stage 2+ in my 91 that I really like but I did not need that much of a clutch for what we are doing. Paid round $300 which some may say is a little high. There are other out there cheaper like the Ford Racing at Summit for around $225 and the King Cobra which is around the same price.

Yes my Door – you don’t like my handy work with my little saw? Well it is still under construction. I left a little of a lip to roll it so it do not have any sharp edges. Still need to get back to this.

[jrod]

I hate seeing those edges at all. Why is that part of the door not in the garbage? It can be revomed and it's presence only creates a pinch point and sharp edge.

 

4.12 Door Safety Bars

... Gutting of the door beyond what is solely necessary to fit cage

bars is allowed. However, removal of the OEM door impact beams is only allowed if door bars extend out towards the door skin on the driver's side, and on the passenger side if a minimum of two door bars are used.

 

I'm not throwing stuff, but what does this mean? I have to leave the jambs and bottom intact, but the interior panel can get cut out? I'm supposing this is to prevent running only the outer skin... Makes sense from a 'don't snag everything and bleed out' perspective to remove all of that piece.

 

Looks like lots of fun with the heat gun and putty knife in there.

 

 

Edit: I can't read, apparently. That says gutting IS allowed, so I guess hacking away at it is cool.

Edited March 14, 2010 by Guest

[DrC]

Good question. I had to read it a number of times and look at a lot of examples. A lot of the work I am doing is based on what I read in the forum, Club rules and from what Matt King did in the article in Muscle Mustang & Fast Fords, there are 5 parts but it is worth reading a number of times.

 

Muscle Mustang & Fast Fords article.

http://www.musclemustangfastfords.com/projectcars/mmfp_0901_1995_mustang_gt_project_cmc_part_1/index.html

[stevemichael]

This article was a good read. Both of Matt's cars are what made me want to run CMC. It doesn't get any more simple than these cars.

[DrC]

Have a question related to the placement of the Cage Rear Brace from the Main Hoop to a rear attachment points. The info I am reading suggest that it be the rear shock tower mount area but to do that I would have to CUT the rear Seatbrace which I understand is not allowed in CMC since it is not something I can unbolt.

Anyone have Pictures of what is legal?

[TurboShortBus]

I see that as an unused interior bracket back there, and you know what the rules say about them. With that being said, mine are partially removed to clear the rear kicker bars. Interpretations vary, though, so an official response would trump mine.

 

Mark

[CMC#11]

Have a question related to the placement of the Cage Rear Brace from the Main Hoop to a rear attachment points. The info I am reading suggest that it be the rear shock tower mount area but to do that I would have to CUT the rear Seatbrace which I understand is not allowed in CMC since it is not something I can unbolt.

Anyone have Pictures of what is legal?

You can cut out a portion on the interior metal needed to get the cage to fit. You can not cut all of it out but can notch it as needed.

[Al F.]

Well said Michael.

 

Regarding door gutting, have a look at the CCR and then the CMC rule will make more sense.

[TurboShortBus]

Does this amount of SN95 Mustang rear seat bracket removal disqualify a car for CMC?

 

 

The red lines approximate the piece of 22-ish gauge sheet metal that was removed mostly by drilling factory spot welds. The actual piece extends about 4" to 6" lower than the photo shows (this is the only photo that was handy). The rear kicker bar location has not yet been completely determined, which is why it was easier to 86 the entire piece of metal. While it's possible to tack weld the piece of metal back in place after trimming it, it seems to me that it is unnecessary, especially if a sheet metal rear bulkhead is (eventually) built. However, my interpretations are known to vary wildly.

 

Mark

[DrC]

This is a general questions related to making a jack point on the side of a SN95 car.

Does anyone have a picture or details of how to do this where it is not construed as a stiffening purpose mod?

[Al F.]

Mark...looks like nobody posted on your question; yes, put the piece back. No its not doing a whole hell of a lot, but we have to draw the line somewhere, and that somewhere is before cutting big hunks of sheet metal out of the interior.