Race Trailers?

[APatelIroc]

Im looking to buy a trailer for my soon to be CMC car and that I can also use for my pro street car when I need. I am looking for one of those low profile trailers because these cars will be low, specially the pro street car.

 

Does anyone have one of these or know of a good company to look at getting them from? I am looking for an open trailer but would consider an enclosed one if its not too expensive. Also located in the northeast so something within a couple hours driving range would be good.

 

I found JIMGLO tilt trailers online. ANyone heard of these or seen one? Looks pretty nice where you can tilt the 'bed' of the trailer down like a flat bed truck.

[mitchntx1548534714]

I had a Sloan Kwik-Load and loved it. A friend still uses a Texas Rollback.

 

The concept is basically the same, but function is different.

 

Sloan and Texas Rollback uses the trailer brakes and moving the tow vehicle to tilt the bed, making the landing a little smoother than the Jim Glo. The trailer bed itself is on giant rollers like used on a flatbed hauler.

 

It appears that the Jim Glo pivots like a lawn mower trailer.

[Alien]

This doesn't help you much as far as location, but my open trailer is a Texas Bragg. I ordered it with 4" drop axles and long ramps. It's more than enough to stop from scraping the car getting it onto the trailer. On the other hand, it does mean that the trailer scrapes on some driveways. Just one option to ask or look out for.

[MHISSTC]

I have an open H&H manual tilt bed trailer that I like when I'm not using my enclosed trailer. I seem to remember some Viper guys having some kind of custom trailer build by H&H in aluminum or stainless that they really liked because it accommodated the minimal clearances and looked pretty. Maybe BADVENM will help out my memory.

[APatelIroc]

what are good prices to pay for these? Are there specific options that you guys absolutelyr recommend? I dont know mcuh about what all the trailers offer and am trying to guage what i need, should get, and dont need to have.

 

The other thing i am trying to consider is storage capacity - extra tires, toosl, etc... I may leave this up to the truck I am using to pull the trailer but not 100% sure yet.

 

What are you guys doing for trailer security? I have to leave mine in my driveway and dont need anyone messing with it or trying to steal it.

[Al F.]

A lot of guys fabricate tire racks to hold tires in front of the car or above the hood. You can also put boxes up front to keep from having to constantly load/unload the pickup.

 

Those tilting trailers are pretty sweet but any trailer can be made to work with the right ramps.

[MHISSTC]

I bought my 20 foot wooden deck H&H open manual tilt bed for about $1600 10 years ago as a bare bones unit and made a few upgrades as I could afford them in the moths following my purchase. I added my own breakaway controller, equalizer hitch attachments, tie-down rings, and painted the wooden deck with exterior wood floor paint with the sand mixed in for traction. The deck needs painted every couple of years, but it's an easy and quick job. Prices are higher than that now, but I haven't looked recently.

 

The recommendation made to me when I bought both my open and enclosed trailer was to figure out what size trailer you need and then buy a bigger one because you will always carry more stuff than you originally expected and you will find other reasons to use it. Storage space isn't a problem for me and that advice as paid off many times as I have carried post-remodeling debris to the dump, used it for floats in local parades, and carried much more than just a single kind of car on it.

 

The one thing I think I would have done differently is to get a trailer with the electric/hydraulic tilt option instead of the manually operated one.

 

Things like rock shields, dual axle brakes, heavy duty 8-lug axles, heavy duty hitches, configurable tie-down points, and additional lights are all nice things to have, but aren't "needed". If you are eventually looking at resale, it might not be bad to consider a heavier duty commercial grade trailer with the extra DOT compliant lights and reflectors. Special paint, metal decking, and fancy wheels weren't things I even considered since the trailer was going to live outdoors and was going to see dirt roads and the dump occasionally.

[Adam Ginsberg]

what are good prices to pay for these? Are there specific options that you guys absolutelyr recommend? I dont know mcuh about what all the trailers offer and am trying to guage what i need, should get, and dont need to have.

 

Pricing is completely dictated by options, as with many things. Tilt/non-tilt, toolbox/no toolbox, tire rack/no tire rack, length, etc.

 

FWIW, when I sold/traded my 16' open, we set it's value @ $1700. It had the following custom features - built in toolbox, built in tire rack, built in fuel jug racks, built in ramps.

 

 

 

It also had electric brakes on one axle, and came with 2 spares. When I bought it in 2003, it had none of the options listed (except the ramps), and paid $1000.

 

For an open trailer, 16'-18' long, depending on options/features, you can spend anywhere from $1000 to $3000.

 

Eventually, I moved on to this:

 

 

The other thing i am trying to consider is storage capacity - extra tires, toosl, etc... I may leave this up to the truck I am using to pull the trailer but not 100% sure yet.

 

When I first started racing, I was using a van to tow. As such, putting fuel jugs, tools, tires, etc, into the van was not an option. That's why I had the above listed features added to the trailer. When I lived in TX, my trailer was parked at my home, behind a fence, and had no issues leaving my tools in the toolbox. Once I moved, and it was out in the open, I always removed the tools.

 

What are you guys doing for trailer security? I have to leave mine in my driveway and dont need anyone messing with it or trying to steal it.

 

At a minimum, get a lock for the trailer like these:

 

 

Employing multiple levels of security will further deter a thief - the idea is to make damn hard so he'll move on to something else.

 

Add in these types of devices as well:

 

Edited November 3, 2010 by Guest

[MHISSTC]

Adam just reminded me of something. I'm assuming with the expected weight you would be carrying we are talking about dual axle trailers. GET TWO SPARES and a way to conveniently raise an axle to change a tire. Using a race car jack is very do-able, but using one of those ramp thingys is even easier.

 

[Adam Ginsberg]

Adam just reminded me of something. I'm assuming with the expected weight you would be carrying we are talking about dual axle trailers. GET TWO SPARES and a way to conveniently raise an axle to change a tire. Using a race car jack is very do-able, but using one of those ramp thingys is even easier.

 

 

FWIW, I have 3 spares for the enclosed, as I've blown a tire, and been left with no spare. Nerve wracking on a long tow.....and I've made many very long tows with the race car (4000+ miles round trip).

 

Using the race car jack on an enclosed isn't much of an option, that's why I carry two floor jacks. A 3-ton (6000lbs) steel unit for the trailer, and a regular race jack for the car. With the open, the regular race car jack was sufficient. And always, always, ALWAYS use a jack stand to support the trailer when changing tires.

[Al F.]

No way Adam, those ramps like Bryan showed are the way to go. Much much easier than a jack, and it cant fall off so no stand needed.

[APatelIroc]

the hunt for a trailer begins...

 

if anyone happens to come across something nice in the northeast region hit me up!

[cmc35]

I bought an open trailer when I started CMC, and eventually an enclosed rig, but kept the open.

 

I watch WAY too many people go through unbelievable gyrations at the track, trying to get the trailer's back end tilted far enough down to unload their cars without scraping the car nose. WAY too much work, and I don't care what anyone says, it is not safe.

 

And the "low" trailers have the problem mentioned earlier: they scrape on driveways, etc.

 

Get a cost effective trailer, and long ramps. My ramps are 10 feet long. The car nose never scrapes anything.

 

The difference in cost between a good trailer with good ramps, and a cheap trailer with 6' ramps, is mice nuts. Spend the money. Find someplace else to save $400.

 

-chris

[KiMifan]

Using the race car jack on an enclosed isn't much of an option.

My race jack won't lift my loaded enclosed trailer. Tried it once with complete failure. Fortunately, my truck has a bottle-type jack that worked like a charm! Board or ramps would be a lot easier.

[FBody383]

Get a cost effective trailer, and long ramps. My ramps are 10 feet long. The car nose never scrapes anything.

 

I have a standard 18' open trailer with 2' dove-tail and 5' ramps. I built something similar to these out of a couple sheets of 3/4"" plywood.

[JoeK]

I found backing the back wheels of the truck up onto Rhino ramps tilted an open trailer just fine to unload the car without scrapping anything. Even with regular length ramps. And then no need to jack the trailer up. Just remember to put jack stands under the back of the trailer so it doesn't bounce/jump itself.

 

...so Chris? Still need that open trailer that's too dangerous, cause I know someone looking for one to use for their CMC car....

[cmc35]

I found backing the back wheels of the truck up onto Rhino ramps tilted an open trailer just fine to unload the car without scrapping anything. Even with regular length ramps. And then no need to jack the trailer up. Just remember to put jack stands under the back of the trailer so it doesn't bounce/jump itself.

 

...so Chris? Still need that open trailer that's too dangerous, cause I know someone looking for one to use for their CMC car....

 

Ah grasshopper, you missed the point: all of that backing up / jacking up stuff is, IMHO, unsafe and monumentally stupid. Not that I'm saying you're...

 

And no, my trailer is not for sale: it's now part of the family.

 

-chris

[Lady in Nomex]

Sold my Carson open trailer and got one of these used from a buddy:

 

http://www.diamondc.com/trailers/car-hauler-flatbed-trailers/12CHSL18X83

 

These are Cadillac trailers! The ramps were killing me with the Carson after making them 6' long and steel, it was tweaking my back to use them. Besides, a steel deck trailer usually has better tie downs integrated into the deck. Mine came with all these cool whiz bang options like wind screen, removeable fender on driver side, dove tail. The previous owner added a box and a winch. The ramps on this trailer are the beauty part, they are quick and easy to pull out, and work great with the lower profile cars.

 

My best advice in addition to all the great advice you have gotten is choose a wide deck trailer vs. normal width. Much easier to load!

[mitchntx1548534714]

Don't listen to Chris.

 

He's a cantankorous old man, set in his ways, living life still in the great depression.

 

He still uses his fingers and toes do simple math and a broom stick as a TV remote.

 

[cmc35]

Don't listen to Chris.

 

He's a cantankorous old man, set in his ways, living life still in the great depression.

 

He still uses his fingers and toes do simple math and a broom stick as a TV remote.

 

 

Ah, ya got me, ack ack ack....

[APatelIroc]

OK, so i have been doing some more searching around and am finding all sorts of varying prices for different trailers.

 

I started to look into trailex trailers because of the light weight and ease of adding things on later as money allows but these are fairly expensive and completely out of the question for an enclosed version.

 

Recently i have been finding VERY low cost enclosed trailers for race cars. One place is not too far from me and i might drive up to check out there facility just to see how they assemble these things. here is a link:

 

http://www.enclosedtrailersforless.com/racing-trailers.html

 

these are very cheap and seems like you can get a ton of nice upgrades for relatively low cost and was wondering if anyone had any thoughts on these? It just seems like for 5-7k why buy a used open trailer with nothing on it when you can get one of these for same or lower price

[KiMifan]

The first thing to watch out for with the el-cheapo enclosed trailers is the axle rating. Some of them will have spring axles (not desirable for the heavier loads of an enclosed) and most of them will only have 3500 pound rated axles, which are inadequate for a 20-24 foot trailer hauling a fullsize car, because combined with the weight of the trailer itself, you will be at or over the limit of the GVWR in a heartbeat before you load a spare tire or tool box. Other things to watch for are quality of wiring, attachment of the tongue to the frame, wall stud spacing, roof material, door hinges, etc. On paper and at a casual glance, you may not notice the subtle differences between an entry level no-name brand and a higher level model from the bigger companies like Pace or Haulmark, and in the long run it may or may not matter to you depending on how you use it. But generally speaking it's like anything else--you get what you pay for.

 

Here's a post I copied from another forum in response to a similar question. The author is a well-respected racer who has worked in the trailer industry for over 20 years.

 

 

Not to get to far off topic of the original post and his search for a 18-24' trailer, but here are some of the quality differences you will see on the inferior brands, such as the EBay one referenced. I want ApexSpeed members to be knowledgeable trailer shoppers, as there is more junk out there than good at the moment. As the trailer & RV industry has just been decimated by the recession the last 3 years.

 

To start off w/ the funny part...nowhere in this ad does the seller even mention what the brand of trailer is! There's confidence in your product.

 

The EBay trailer has Dexter spring axles NOT Torsion ITS, which is a huge difference in ride quality, durability, and price. American made yes, but still an inferior leaf spring axle.

 

It is equipped w/ bias-ply not radial tires

 

Is the steel mainframe I-Beam or tube construction? The more modern designs are starting to go to tube, which ends up being lighter, stronger, and offering a lower floor platform height.

 

What type of wall posts are used: Z, Hat, or tube?

Are they using Galvaneal coated steel in any key corrosion areas, such as the rear cross-member, a-frame, and side door stepwell?

 

It has a cheap plywood constructed 36" w/ side door w/ no twin-lock flush handle. A 48" side door has become the more popular size in auto trailers and construction techniques other than plywood are superior for durability.

 

In addition it uses three cheap galvanized strap hinges. A full-length, stainless steel piano hinge helps durability by spreading the weight of the door over a greater length, allows smoother operation, but also offers superior security as the three strap hinges are an easy entry point w/ a sawzall. Especially w/ only a barlock and no flush handle w/ the additional striker plate and deadbolt.

 

Side door does not appear to have a holdback to hold it open (even a cheap plastic one) nor interior safety chain to keep it from blowing open and into the side of the trailer. When equipped w/ holdbacks BTW they should be screwed into a steel wall post NOT the thin aluminum skin and quality holdbacks are cast aluminum or stainless.

 

The ATP in the side door stepwell is to cover up the cheap plywood construction of the stepwell. Where a Pace for example will use a welded steel stepwell of corrosion resistant Galvaneal coated steel. This provides corrosion protection even when the paint has been chipped.

 

A single pair of std incandescent taillights is used in the rear corner posts to save money, where a tandem set and even better LEDs allow those behind the trailer to identify it stopping easier.

 

They do not identify the thickness of the exterior skin, is it .024 or .030? White or Black could be either, other colors will be .030 by default. The real high end trailers will even go .050 or have it available as an option.

 

The A-frame tongue jack is a painted unit which will chip and corrode within months from road debris. Look for a jack w/ a zinc plated finish, along w/ a rubber cap at the top of the handle shaft to minimize water entering the shaft and the resultant corrosion. Are they using zinc plated safety chains and hooks w/ security clasps?

 

Are they using wiring harnesses for their 12v wiring or just running loose stranded wires? Which ever type wiring is used is it protected in conduit or run thru the frame tubes on a trailer not of I-beam construction. This provides protection from road debris and weather.

 

See the small license plate lamp on the LR corner post? Easy to run the wires to Yes, easy to break off too. That thing is gone within months in that location, even if you just walk into it. It should be mounted to the door above or to the side of the plate or built-in to the LP frame itself.

 

Are the roof vent frames constructed out of steel tube or wood stick?

 

Rear Ramp rated at 4k LBS? Highly doubtful, as when I was at Pace we were the first to independently test and rate our ramp doors for deflection and that was 2.5 years ago. Prior to that the industry std was 3.5# for an auto trailer and it was an educated guess.

 

Are the ramp door hinges protected w/ a rubber cover from dirt and debris, providing smoother operation for a longer period?

 

This trailer does not include a ceiling liner, it simply has an approx 14" wide Lauan strip 1/4" thick to hide some overhead wiring.

 

The roof is Galvalume the cheapest material in the industry. Look for single piece aluminum roofs on the quality units. Even a galvanized steel roof would be thicker and provide less wind buffeting.

 

What is their warranty? Do they even have one? Is it in writing? Is it nationwide? and have they been in business long enough to to even meet the terms of the warranty for their first customers? Great you offer a single bullet point on your website (if they have one) noting a five (5) year warranty and you've been in business 10 months...24 months down the road...phone disconnected. Axles and Tires BTW are covered by their respective manufacturers.

 

Do they have an in-house Engineering Dept who properly locates the axles, for example, for each length trailer? many inferior brands will just add-on the additional length in two foot increments to one ned or the other. More than once I have had customers comment on how XWZ towed better than ABC for the same length trailer, of which axle location is one contributing factor.

 

Is the dealer a full-service dealer offering sales, on-site inventory, service, financing, & parts? Yes, real trailer dealers have higher costs of doing business than internet sellers, but should also also be offering you a higher level of service and expertise before, during, and after the sale.

 

There are many reasons why you will pay more for an ATC/Motiv, Pace, or Wells Cargo of the national brand names. You will also recoup a large percentage of that cost when you go to sell the trailer, as they offer superior resale value in both the trade-in and retail markets.