DrC Posted February 4, 2011 Share Posted February 4, 2011 This is a continuation of the 95 Mustang Winter Build for CMC 2010 I started upgrading the car last winter and drove it in HPDE for 2010, now it needs to be completed by April when I plan to get my Comp license at Mid Ohio. I have completed all but the Door bars for the roll cage. Those will be done here in the next two week. The following are some other areas I have to address to get the car to pass Tech. Please let me know if you know of other items that are easily over look. I don’t want to fail tech for something like not having a sticker for my Fire Extinguisher. Electrical master switch(Buy and install) Fire Extinguisher (Buy and install) Driver Side Window Net (Buy and install) Right-side impact head restraint system (Buy and install) Seat back support (build 5Pt Pd-Lap harness (Buy and install) Rear Tow hook (Build) All the Sicker (Buy and install) CMC Banner (Buy and install) Car Numbers (Buy and install) Power Steering Cooler (Install) AMB Tran X 260 Direct Powered Transponder (Buy and install) Driving suit, hoping to drop some weight before April. Head and Neck Restraint device (Buy and install) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TxCMC22 Posted February 4, 2011 Share Posted February 4, 2011 just a few things that come to mind, not sure if you have done them... Cover the Positive cable, and install a battery box. Cover any positive terminals that may be exposed. Transponder sticker? Electrical disconnect sticker Hood pins? Nomex Socks, sounds stupid but they are often forgot... holes drilled to verify cage? Cage number stamped on cage? This is a log book thing, so it may happen after the first event drive shaft loop? water in radiator? overflow tank on radiator? SFI padding, or high density foam, anywhere the driver can impact the cage, think crash, arms flying etc. anyone else got any ideas? I know there are a couple of Texas directors up to date with tech... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KiMifan Posted February 4, 2011 Share Posted February 4, 2011 If you haven't already, print out a copy of the safety regulations section of the CCRs and CMC rules and highlight everything that applies to your car. Then make a checklist. Your annual tech will not be class specific, so you mainly need to focus on the CCR to get the logbook. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roadracerwhite Posted February 4, 2011 Share Posted February 4, 2011 Hey Dan, I have the Banners, so you don't have to buy them! We will get them out to everyone at the first event. I have plenty for eeveryone. Bryan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FBody383 Posted February 4, 2011 Share Posted February 4, 2011 anyone else got any ideas? If you use clip in lap belts, put cotter pins or safety wire in the clips. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DrC Posted February 4, 2011 Author Share Posted February 4, 2011 Alot there that I did not know. Do I have to have a battery box if it is still in the factory location? I do plan to put it behind the seat when I have time. Is there a better place for it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CMC#11 Posted February 5, 2011 Share Posted February 5, 2011 You don't need a box if it is the factory location. Most people relocate their battery either to the passenger rear seat area or passenger trunk area. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DrC Posted February 9, 2011 Author Share Posted February 9, 2011 Do you have any suggestions related to the driver side Net and how it should be mounted? There is the seat belt buckle and the other one I like it the spring loaded rod. I need to buy and get it install so any insight you may have would be helpful. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DrC Posted February 9, 2011 Author Share Posted February 9, 2011 Head and Neck Restraint device Does anyone have any suggestions? Looks like the Hans device is what I see everywhere, what about the others like the Safety Solutions Hydrid device. Both are around the same price. They look to fit different and I question how it my fit with my seat. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KiMifan Posted February 9, 2011 Share Posted February 9, 2011 If you're on a budget, take a look at the Defnder HNR. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adam Ginsberg Posted February 9, 2011 Share Posted February 9, 2011 Dan - if you can find a shop in your area, see if you can test fit the various SFI 38.1 devices to figure out which one fits and suits you best. I bought a HANS back in the day (2005, IIRC), as, at the time, it was the only 38.1 approved device. There are many more on the market now, around the same price point. Welcome to CMC racing!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cozog1548534733 Posted February 10, 2011 Share Posted February 10, 2011 I'm so jealous of your progress! Here's some things from my to do list that you didn't mention: Oil catch can Water catch can Windshield stay tabs Balaclava Winch for the trailer (be sure to install on the same side as the tow hooks) Video Camera mount on cage Lots of spare parts I hope to be there in April to go W2W with you! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nape1548534725 Posted February 10, 2011 Share Posted February 10, 2011 I'm so jealous of your progress! Here's some things from my to do list that you didn't mention: Oil catch can Water catch can Windshield stay tabs Balaclava Winch for the trailer (be sure to install on the same side as the tow hooks) Video Camera mount on cage Lots of spare parts I hope to be there in April to go W2W with you! Oil catch can- 32oz Gatorade bottle. Cheap and easily replaceable at the track. Watch catch can- stock radiator overflow or gallon antifreeze jug with a hole drilled in the cap and a hose run to the bottom. That's a nice short list. I only had a chassis with a cage in it at this point before I took my comp school. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DrC Posted February 14, 2011 Author Share Posted February 14, 2011 AMB Tran X 260 Direct Powered Transponder Where should I buy and where to install it on a 95 Mustang? Looks like all of them are just at $400 give or take. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glenn Posted February 14, 2011 Share Posted February 14, 2011 If I recall, there is a possibility some regions are switching over to a new timing system. Tag Heuer I think. The Texas region is experimenting w/ it now. The new system will read the AMB transponders as well as the Tag ones. TH transponders are under $100 if I recall. Do some snooping w/in your region and see if thats the case. Should save you some $$$. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trevor571548534737 Posted February 14, 2011 Share Posted February 14, 2011 I have the AMB mounted in the rear on a bumper support thing. If you lay under the back and look up you will see a spot to put it. I figured the chances of smashing it up were better on the front end. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TurboShortBus Posted February 14, 2011 Share Posted February 14, 2011 I have the AMB mounted in the rear on a bumper support thing. If you lay under the back and look up you will see a spot to put it. I figured the chances of smashing it up were better on the front end. So, in your W2W car, if you are in first place by a nose ahead of another car coming across the stripe on the final lap, and the other car has its transponder mounted near the front bumper while yours is mounted on the back bumper, then the other car's transponder crosses the loop first and you end up in second place, per the timing system. Does your region use a finish line camera to eliminate these snafus, or do you just never anticipate a close finish? I wouldn't just give up 12-15 feet of track position if I didn't have to. I mounted mine to the puke tank support rod (1996-2004), between the radiator and the engine, and about 18" behind the leading edge of the nose. If I wad up the front end badly enough to destroy the transponder, then an additional $400 to replace it will be the least of my expenses. Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mitchntx1548534714 Posted February 14, 2011 Share Posted February 14, 2011 I have the AMB mounted in the rear on a bumper support thing. So, in your W2W car, if you are in first place by a nose ahead of another car coming across the stripe on the final lap, and the other car has its transponder mounted near the front bumper while yours is mounted on the back bumper, then the other car's transponder crosses the loop first and you end up in second place, per the timing system. I was thinking the same thing. Someone only has to get to your door to be in the lead as far as T/S goes. Not sure how its done every where, but the official results are based off of the timing loop here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glenn Posted February 14, 2011 Share Posted February 14, 2011 I have the AMB mounted in the rear on a bumper support thing. So, in your W2W car, if you are in first place by a nose ahead of another car coming across the stripe on the final lap, and the other car has its transponder mounted near the front bumper while yours is mounted on the back bumper, then the other car's transponder crosses the loop first and you end up in second place, per the timing system. I was thinking the same thing. Someone only has to get to your door to be in the lead as far as T/S goes. Not sure how its done every where, but the official results are based off of the timing loop here. We have taken the word of the two in question to determin the finish. Our racers are always pretty honest about it. I would still mount it up towards the front swaybar area. Like others said, if I hurt my car so bad as to get the transponder, I'm not worried about the transponder. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trevor571548534737 Posted February 14, 2011 Share Posted February 14, 2011 I never thought about a close finish like that. I guess I just figured I would be so far in front...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DrC Posted February 17, 2011 Author Share Posted February 17, 2011 Any one know the correct name of this unit - Tag Heuer ? Not finding anything about it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TurboShortBus Posted February 17, 2011 Share Posted February 17, 2011 This is likely what you want to look at: http://www.tagheuer-timing.com/products/transponders/transponder_info/index.lbl?lang=en They spoke to me at the PRI show for quite some time (they noticed my button-up NASA shirt and thought I was someone of consequence or responsibility...wrong), and they really seem to have a lot of good ideas and interesting products. $250 was the price they quoted me for a transponder, not $100. It's still a lot cheaper than $400, though. Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DrC Posted March 9, 2011 Author Share Posted March 9, 2011 Door bars are in and the Cage is done. All I have to do is drill the inspection holes and add the pads after the inspection. Also have my Tow hook built and is ready to add on to the bumper. Started on my Power Steering Cooler Frame and will be read to inst stall later this week. Remote Battery Box is ready to be bolted in – move to the rear of the car. Still a lot of little things that have to be done before inspection at the local shop here in Dayton. [/img] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DrC Posted March 9, 2011 Author Share Posted March 9, 2011 I have some of the decals install and as you can see I have the big R on the rear plate. The BIG R Be Aware Or Be Afraid Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adam Ginsberg Posted March 9, 2011 Share Posted March 9, 2011 All I have to do is drill the inspection holes and add the pads after the inspection. My suggestion, based on experience, is do not drill the inspection holes until directed to do so by a NASA inspector. Other than that, congrats on your continued progress. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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