NoTheOtherSparky Posted June 15, 2011 Share Posted June 15, 2011 When you think about it, the cost of entry to this series is about what you'd pay for a decent used motorcycle or convertible to putt around the neighborhood. Consumables are a little more than you'd pay for another hobby vehicle, but not ridiculous. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mitchntx1548534714 Posted June 15, 2011 Share Posted June 15, 2011 Compare it to golf. The cost of a decent cart is somewhere in the neighborhood of a reasonable race car. Clubs, shoes, gloves, tees ... is about what safety gear costs. Dues and green fees for a weekly or bi-monthly game equate to what it costs to race all events in Texas. How about deer hunting ... The lease, the weapon, the travel, the RV, the ATV, the processing cost, the beer ... well, the beer is a wash, but you get the idea. I always considered auto racing a "rich man's" pass-time ... until I finally built a car. The cost of keeping a dedicated track car running is less than half that of keeping a nice street car in DE or TT. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adam Ginsberg Posted June 15, 2011 Share Posted June 15, 2011 Also, have you done a racing budget? I wanted to put that together so I know what I'm up against. Things like tires (how many races do they last, brakes (same), entry fees, reserve for rebuilds/repairs. That kind of thing. Mitch's racing budget is better than others, IMO. FWIW, I change the oil and oil filter every other event. I used to change it after every event, but realized that was overkill.....especially when the oil was still gold-colored after only one event. Hubs get replaced either during the year if they start to go bad, or at the beginning of the season. And, they get replaced in pairs. Rear pads last ~2 seasons. Front pads (Carbotech XP10's) used to last 2-2.5 events, but that was with the old CMC1 setup (12" rotors, PBR/Cobra calipers). Rotors would typically last a full season. And I had no qualms taking them back to AutoZone.....I spend plenty $$ with them. Tires - I managed to get a set (4) of R888's to last an entire season, save for the final race of the year. I started 2011 with a new set of shaved RA1's. They have lasted 3 full events so far (the SPIR event was raining the entire weekend, so that helped), and with flipping/rotation, I expect them to last another ~2 events. Yearly maintenance: PlugsCapRotorAirfilterOilOil filterTrans oilRear-end oilHubs (depending on what's gone on over the season) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mitchntx1548534714 Posted June 16, 2011 Share Posted June 16, 2011 Mitch's racing budget is better than others, IMO. Probably due to our respective platforms. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AllZWay Posted June 16, 2011 Share Posted June 16, 2011 My budget for a year of racing is not much different than Mitch's. I generally go through two sets of tires in a season....with the new compound I might have to add a couple more tires to that budget though. I use basically one set of front Carbotech XP10's per year and one set of front rotors per year. I do have to manage my pads though. I put on thin sets for TWS and run full sets at Hallett and Eagles Canyon... our heavy brake intensive tracks. I go through one set of rear pads about every 2 years and have only replaced the rear rotors once in five years. I'll use about 20-25 gallons of fuel in a weekend. I change my oil twice a year. Once before the season starts and usually once mid-season. I have replaced one front hub, one starter, one waterpump and two alternators in 5 years racing. I did have to replace an engine this year and I have had to replace the rearend once. My budget is also in the $5-6k range per year for everything including travel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adam Ginsberg Posted June 28, 2011 Share Posted June 28, 2011 Mitch's racing budget is better than others, IMO. Probably due to our respective platforms. Maybe so, but you drive like an old man. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mitchntx1548534714 Posted June 28, 2011 Share Posted June 28, 2011 I am an old man. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoeK Posted June 28, 2011 Share Posted June 28, 2011 Oh and I am a cheap bastard so my racing budget and car building budget may be lower than most. kyle No really, he's not kidding. You should see what he used to make my hood pin plates out of...... PBR cans So how's the build coming Kyle? Waiting to finish it when your son's old enough to drive? Some tips for you from your last build. - replace the gaskets and rings NOW on the gas tank before you track the car. Apparently they can leak - get a wink mirror right off the bat, they're awesome. - don't cut the door latch for the inside handle on the drivers door, it can be a slight inconvience. - find some SN95 front wheel assemblies and just start with that combo. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raging Aardvark Posted June 29, 2011 Share Posted June 29, 2011 No really, he's not kidding. You should see what he used to make my hood pin plates out of...... PBR cans I fail to see the problem? Can't tell you how many pro bikes had seatpost shims made from beer cans years ago! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
K Shaw Posted August 2, 2011 Author Share Posted August 2, 2011 Oh and I am a cheap bastard so my racing budget and car building budget may be lower than most. kyle No really, he's not kidding. You should see what he used to make my hood pin plates out of...... PBR cans So how's the build coming Kyle? Waiting to finish it when your son's old enough to drive? Some tips for you from your last build. - replace the gaskets and rings NOW on the gas tank before you track the car. Apparently they can leak - get a wink mirror right off the bat, they're awesome. - don't cut the door latch for the inside handle on the drivers door, it can be a slight inconvience. - find some SN95 front wheel assemblies and just start with that combo. When working with a beans and rice budget you have to do what you have to do. Not to mention that old ford truck you bought from me cost less than most racers have in wheels and tires. kyle Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoeK Posted August 3, 2011 Share Posted August 3, 2011 When working with a beans and rice budget you have to do what you have to do. Not to mention that old ford truck you bought from me cost less than most racers have in wheels and tires. kyle No doubt buddy. Now I just have to figure out how to tow over Monument Hill without overheating!! So where's the progress report on the race car? Think you'll make a 2012 debut? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
K Shaw Posted August 3, 2011 Author Share Posted August 3, 2011 When working with a beans and rice budget you have to do what you have to do. Not to mention that old ford truck you bought from me cost less than most racers have in wheels and tires. kyle No doubt buddy. Now I just have to figure out how to tow over Monument Hill without overheating!! So where's the progress report on the race car? Think you'll make a 2012 debut? You do a radiator and thermostat yet? I'm not a huge fan of that electric fan on the truck. I would think it would need to pull and not push with some sort of better fan shroud. I wonder if a Taurus fan would work better. Maybe turn the pump down a flat or two she does get pretty smoky under load. If the EGTs are getting up there it could cause it to run hot. 2012 would be nice. Have not gotten much done latley too busy with work and its hot in the garage. kyle Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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