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supermac

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Ok Ford dudes, I am curious which is the best starting point for a CMC Mustang.

Raybob and I can build super competitive 4th gen Camaros all day for less than 10k.

The problem is all of our new guys will end up in Camaros? How do we help our mustang wanna-bes out. Where do we start, I am looking for a car that needs a cage, shocks and maybe brakes.

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Raybob says he can find Camaro's for less then $4K that will compete for the front

That's the problem, I can buy a 4k camaro right now that just needs the front cage bars to whoop all mustang comers. Haha I think I will get it!

Still doesn't help with mustang car count.

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SN-95's all day long and put the spec carb motor in it for bang for the buck.

What does it take to get the suspension up to snuff?

Shocks...or does it need the poor man's third link

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I think its more in the driver than the platform. I have a feeling once the Rocky Mountain Mustangs all go over to CMC2 (or just CMC next year)you Camaro guys are gonna have your hands full. Ken Rockwell was battling pretty good with you and Raybob at Hallett.

 

I'm installing an SN95 suspension into the Pumpkin this off season. Will this automatically make me more competitive and be battling up front...who knows, but I'm gonna do my best, and thats all I can ask of myself.

 

Either way, I'm way excited about our large CMC group next year and that I get to run with a great group of guys and gals.

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Dave, you are missing the point. I am not asking about camaro vs mustang (I already know the answer to that one)

I am looking to help build mustang count in our region.

We have a 3-1 GM gap now.

I would like to start looking for something I can build into the ford version of my car.

A stock car with a cage, safety stuff, shocks and modest brakes.

What is the best mustang to do that with.

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I'd say an SN-95 with a running 5.0 motor in it. So a 94 or 95 GT. (not sure of any big differences between the two)

 

The SN-95's can be had for cheap since they're now 17 years old. The Fox is a great platform for cheap, but everyone always upgrades to the SN-95 stuff anyway; rear end, brakes, front suspension. The SN-95 GT will already have the 8.8 rear end, not sure if it gets the twin piston front brakes, but for that, just get them off a stock 99+ from someone who's upgrading to something else. A lot of stuff from up till '04 will fit right on the 94/95.

 

Springs/shocks/struts. There's packages all over the internet for reasonable prices. No different than any other car you're putting on the track. And easy to work on too.

 

Everything under the hood should be ready to go if it's a good running engine. Remove the AC, poly bushings all around, toss a cage in and there you go!

 

Vogl just picked up his SN-95, transplanted his old engine in, and will be doing laps around you at HPR.

 

Let us know when you pull the plug, I'll come over and drink your beer anytime! I like your thinking Cody. Any way we can get people out there, and build the car count is awesome in my book.

 

AMERICAN V8 SUPERCAR RULES!

 

 

here you $2800, 5.0, 5-speed

http://denver.craigslist.org/cto/2495217834.html

 

another one, with perhaps $1000 of stuff to sell off it (stereo system, leather interior, alarm)

http://denver.craigslist.org/cto/2485981327.html

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Raybob and I can build super competitive 4th gen Camaros all day for less than 10k.

 

So you brought the $5K Cameros to Hallett?

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Raybob and I can build super competitive 4th gen Camaros all day for less than 10k.

 

So you brought the $5K Cameros to Hallett?

We brought 10k cars, and 10 cent drivers

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SN-95's all day long and put the spec carb motor in it for bang for the buck.

What does it take to get the suspension up to snuff?

Shocks...or does it need the poor man's third link

Cody, for budget and performance I'd go with the 94-95. The 5.0 motor is cheap to build and reliable (for 5 1/2 yrs. at least). My new rebuild was right at $1k. The 94+ also has the wider track width that is a must.

Front susp: struts, springs, c/c plates, c/a bushings, bump steer kit.

Rear susp: the pm3l is good but not necessary. I didn't feel it made the car any faster but it did make it more stable and consistent. Also need shocks, springs, panhard bar, lower ca's, uca bushings, check all torque boxes for cracks (mine were destroyed after 5 1/2 yrs.)

Brakes: stock rear disc brakes, front calipers and 13" rotors from 94+ Cobra

Diff: I'd go with a torsen or eaton unit. Every Mustang I know runs either 3.55 or 3.73 gears depending on preference.

Trans: you need a good 5th gear or you'll get smoked at a long track. .63 or .68 is stock and most change to anything b/w .80-.88

 

I think I have a complete parts / setup sheet for mine that I'll try and locate.

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The SN-95 GT will already have the 8.8 rear end, not sure if it gets the twin piston front brakes, but for that, just get them off a stock 99+ from someone who's upgrading to something else.

1994-1998 SN95s have single piston, cast iron, floating front calipers with 10.8" rotors.

 

1999-2004 SN95s have 2 piston, cast aluminum, floating PBR front calipers with the same 10.8" rotors.

 

All of the above should be thrown out and replaced with 13" rotors and either 2-piston floating 1994-2004 Cobra PBR, 4-piston fixed 2000 Cobra R Brembo, or 4-piston fixed Wilwoods with brackets from CMCparts.com. All of these are currently CMC-2 legal, and will be 2012 CMC legal (there's no point in building a CMC-1 car now, right?).

 

Mark

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(there's no point in building a CMC-1 car now, right?).

 

Absolutely correct.

 

Remember, there is a difference between "legal" and "competetive".

 

The best bang for the buck is going to be had by getting the best equipment for the lowest dollar. If all you are looking to do is to get it "legal" the '99-'04 would be the better choice with the expectation that funds will be available at a later date for upgrades. However, if you are building a "competetive" car right off the bat, then all that stuff is going to be repalced with one of the comonents you listed above and it doesn't matter (from a stock front brake perspective) whether you go with the '94-'98 or the '99-'04.

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From my personal experience, I can't recommend using the 1999-2004 GT PBR aluminum calipers and 10.8" rotors in any sort of competitive environment, unless you just want to cruise around out there as a backmarker. By the time you put too much heat in the pistons to the point that they distort and wedge themselves into the bores (discovered as you are installing new pads), realize that you have no spare calipers, run out to the parts store and bend over to the tune of $250 for a pair of remanufactured calipers, get back to the track after missing a session, swap the calipers, have to sand the pitted reman calipers flat with a piece of sandpaper that you borrowed from a guy in a Mini because they are too rough to seal the fluid in (even with a new crush washer), and then ruin the new pads after a handful of sessions because the reman calipers were "clamshelled" and wore the pads on an angle, causing the car to not slow enough for the turn 8 hairpin at Homestead and shoot off into the grass...you could have saved yourself a pretty significant headache by just installing "proper" parts. Note that I used Carbotech XP-10 pads with 3" cooling ducts on my stock calipers. My current 2000 Cobra R Brembos are worth their weight in gold, for both performance and consistent reliability.

 

Or, roll the dice with stock stuff in an attempt to save a few bucks up front (but likely spend more money, time, and patience in the longer-term). In that case, I might trust the single-piston cast iron calipers to be a little more durable, if I was forced to go back to stock junk.

 

Mark

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If you guys can build me a competitive Mustang with all the right stuff for under $10K, I'm all ears. I'm seeing previously raced cars that look pretty good on paper for $7-9K, but would prefer a virgin car, so to speak.

 

Feel free to PM me if you're interested. Looking to get a car prepped in the fall/winter to go racing next spring.

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How much of the work are you willing to do? If none, then it can't be done. If all, then it is easy.

 

I can spin a wrench but really am not equipped to do fab work. And as a newbie I could use a guiding hand. So I guess that's "some," not "none" or "all."

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If you guys can build me a competitive Mustang with all the right stuff for under $10K, I'm all ears. I'm seeing previously raced cars that look pretty good on paper for $7-9K, but would prefer a virgin car, so to speak.

 

Feel free to PM me if you're interested. Looking to get a car prepped in the fall/winter to go racing next spring.

I think the key is finding a good foundation. That was the point of this thread.

I want to take a running driving car, gut the interior, put a cage in it, some decent shocks and go racing.

Which mustang fits this bill, I am not interested in buying a V6 automatic car and putting a V8 and 5speed in it.

I feel that in the long run, that is attainable for the average mechanic, these cars are ridiculouly easy to build.

What is the mustang equivalent of a ls1 camaro?

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What is the mustang equivalent of a ls1 camaro?

 

If you're approaching this from an "add safety equipment and a set of wide wheels and tires and podium finish at Nationals" perspective, I don't think there is any such animal. I think they all need some kind of improvement to reach that level of competitiveness.

 

But I do think the closest thing to that is a '94-'95 Cobra. What is your starting point price point? If you or Raybob find one with a non-salvaged title and a price tag realistic enough to turn it into a CMC2 car you better call me first!

 

Right now if you check the Denver metro area Craigslist ads there are a couple examples available. Ask me how I know...

 

http://denver.craigslist.org/cto/2454731557.html

 

http://cosprings.craigslist.org/cto/2440865161.html

 

A close second in my book would be the '94-'95 GT because they are all old enough now that they have just about hit bottom in value and because most of the "drivers" are to the point of needing a second lease on life.

 

http://denver.craigslist.org/cto/2485752792.html

 

http://fortcollins.craigslist.org/cto/2492568853.html

 

http://pueblo.craigslist.org/cto/2484427734.html

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SN-95's all day long and put the spec carb motor in it for bang for the buck.

What does it take to get the suspension up to snuff?

Shocks...or does it need the poor man's third link

Cody, for budget and performance I'd go with the 94-95. The 5.0 motor is cheap to build and reliable (for 5 1/2 yrs. at least). My new rebuild was right at $1k. The 94+ also has the wider track width that is a must.

Front susp: struts, springs, c/c plates, c/a bushings, bump steer kit.

Rear susp: the pm3l is good but not necessary. I didn't feel it made the car any faster but it did make it more stable and consistent. Also need shocks, springs, panhard bar, lower ca's, uca bushings, check all torque boxes for cracks (mine were destroyed after 5 1/2 yrs.)

Brakes: stock rear disc brakes, front calipers and 13" rotors from 94+ Cobra

Diff: I'd go with a torsen or eaton unit. Every Mustang I know runs either 3.55 or 3.73 gears depending on preference.

Trans: you need a good 5th gear or you'll get smoked at a long track. .63 or .68 is stock and most change to anything b/w .80-.88

 

I think I have a complete parts / setup sheet for mine that I'll try and locate.

 

Thanks Michael, from what your saying a 94-95 cobra is the way to go?

How much for all the suspension bits? 2k?

Do they make the power?

I will pm you.

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What is the mustang equivalent of a ls1 camaro?

 

If you're approaching this from an "add safety equipment and a set of wide wheels and tires and podium finish at Nationals" perspective, I don't think there is any such animal. I think they all need some kind of improvement to reach that level of competitiveness.

 

But I do think the closest thing to that is a '94-'95 Cobra. What is your starting point price point? If you or Raybob find one with a non-salvaged title and a price tag realistic enough to turn it into a CMC2 car you better call me first!

 

Right now if you check the Denver metro area Craigslist ads there are a couple examples available. Ask me how I know...

 

http://denver.craigslist.org/cto/2454731557.html

 

http://cosprings.craigslist.org/cto/2440865161.html

 

A close second in my book would be the '94-'95 GT because they are all old enough now that they have just about hit bottom in value and because most of the "drivers" are to the point of needing a second lease on life.

 

http://denver.craigslist.org/cto/2485752792.html

 

http://fortcollins.craigslist.org/cto/2492568853.html

 

http://pueblo.craigslist.org/cto/2484427734.html

 

Scott that second one is a good start, pick it up for 3-3500.

Can you sell interior stuff for these on e-bay or Craigslist?

We usually get around a grand out of what we take off of the camaros.

I personally know of a cobra with a brand new mod motor, that I can pick up for 4k, not sure of the year?

If I get one of these done before pueblo, bring your checkbook. I don't want to sit on my investment all winter.

Price...a smooth 10k

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Can you sell interior stuff for these on e-bay or Craigslist?

Non-trashed leather seats and working power seat tracks (rare) might actually bring a few dollars. Depending on your local market and your patience, the rest of the interior bits aren't worth squat (that's the case in Orlando). I just sold nearly 2 cars worth of interior panels and trim for $50, and I was surprised that I got that much for it. I should have thrown it out 3 years ago, as I wouldn't have been tripping over it all this time.

 

Mark

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How much of the work are you willing to do? If none, then it can't be done. If all, then it is easy.

 

I can spin a wrench but really am not equipped to do fab work. And as a newbie I could use a guiding hand. So I guess that's "some," not "none" or "all."

 

You're in Austin?

A former Rocky Mountain racer, Kyle, is just north of you in Round Rock. He's building a CMC mustang. Sounds like you should get in touch with him.

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Can you sell interior stuff for these on e-baiy or Craigslist?

Non-trashed leather seats and working power seat tracks (rare) might actually bring a few dollars. Depending on your local market and your patience, the rest of the interior bits aren't worth squat (that's the case in Orlando). I just sold nearly 2 cars worth of interior panels and trim for $50, and I was surprised that I got that much for it. I should have thrown it out 3 years ago, as I wouldn't have been tripping over it all this time.

 

Mark

 

Wow that is crazy, I thought you Ford guys were way proud of your stuff! Lol

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