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supermac

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Good to know, I'll stay away from that purple one then. I've actually had trouble finding a V8 / manual SN95 for under $3000, seems they are out there though.

 

http://denver.craigslist.org/cto/2574255874.html

 

http://denver.craigslist.org/cto/2566553379.html

 

Convertible huh? Wouldn't that need extra chassis bracing? At least the cage would probably be easier to build Hardtops are really expensive though, so the cheap price on that one might be moot. Looks like $1500+ for an aftermarket one, there were no OEM ones except for Cobras as far as I can tell, and those are extremely rare.

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Um, it's a convertible guys. I'd probably opt for a hardtop.

 

I know. How cool would that be?

 

Dillon, I'm not sure what you are talking about with your $1500 OEM/aftermarket Cobra/rare reference.

 

Those other two are are good examples also.

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Um, it's a convertible guys. I'd probably opt for a hardtop.

 

I know. How cool would that be?

 

Dillon, I'm not sure what you are talking about with your $1500 OEM/aftermarket Cobra/rare reference.

 

Those other two are are good examples also.

Someone definitely correct me if I'm wrong, but as far as I can tell from googling, there is only one company (Smooth Line) that makes hardtops for an SN95 convertible. Base price is $1600, more if you want it painted. Ford made one OEM, but it only fit on Cobras because the hardware to mount it wasn't included on the GTs. They were only available for the 1995 model year, and they only made 500 or so of them.

 

If I'm gonna build I'm trying to stay away from a transplant unless I somehow get a killer deal on a V6 car...it's more work than I really want to do. Then again, the engine would have to come out for a rebuild anyway...

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They were only available for the 1995 model year, and they only made 500 or so of them.

 

Yes, the hardtop/convertibles were only made for one year, are rare, and only come in black/tan. One of the SVT fanatics might do you bodily harm if you were to turn one of those into a race car.

 

IMO any hardtop you ADD to a convertible is worthless in the way of adding any kind of protection and is probably a liability because it is more pieces that can hurt you in a rollover. They might add some aero benefit, but I think they should be left off the car.

 

Watch this:

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FWIW, the steel roof, back glass, and B-pillars of an SN95 Mustang weigh 99 lbs. If you start with a convertible and eliminate the soft top and assembly, then you'll be able to eliminate that weight from the top of the car. This will also allow you to build your cage a little taller (as in, away from your helmet), as you won't be limited by the roof sheetmetal. Rain races would suck, though. Or, if you don't need the weight loss, then run with the top down (safely strapped in place, of course) and put that weight over the rear tires, helping your weight balance.

 

Before everybody starts yelling about aerodynamic assumptions with the top down, I personally took data from a Spec Miata that shows that running with and without the hardtop do not affect speed up to 102 mph. It might matter at 150 (a speed that CMC cars don't see), but it doesn't at 100. Granted, a Mustang is not a Miata, but I can't see a big difference between the two.

 

SN95s were designed to be convertibles, as opposed to Fox drop-tops, which were all built as notchbacks and were sent out to ASC to have the stock roofs cut off and the convertible top assembly installed (along with a bunch of additional plates and bracing riveted and bolted in place). On my 1994 GT 'vert, there was only an extra X-brace under the K-member that attached to the front subframes (along with a 25 lb vibration damper above the RF fog light), but I noticed nothing different regarding chassis reinforcement compared to a hardtop SN95 (and I have gutted/parted out several).

 

Mark

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The weight thing is a null topic IMO. My 94 with an empty fueltank, me in it, with no ballast is 3030lbs. I was expecting about 3200, needless to say I was shocked. Now I gotta find another 120lbs.

 

I guess it's a better possition to be in than needing to loose weight.

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Dillon, it's CMC, not Spec Miata. We don't require roofs.

Hardtops aren't required in NASA's 2011 Spec Miata rules, either (section 8, page 2). But, everybody feels the need to have one. Personally, on tracks where you don't go much past 100 mph (in a SM), I'd rather remove that weight from the top of the car and put it down low. I'll see if I have any volunteers who want to datalog their SM this weekend at PBIR with the roof on and off, which has a back straight that rivals Sebring for length.

 

Mark

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Ok, I won't rule out a convertible, then. I knew hardtop wasn't required, but figured I'd want one just for looks, and to keep the weather out. Actually though, running top down might be pretty sweet...sure would solve any visibility problems I'm with Rich though, from what I've read, it's not hard to get an SN95 down to weight. BTW that fox is awesome, I can't believe it went for $5k...

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JMO but there is no way I would buy a convertible. With all the cones flying around it is just too dangerous.

 

Not to mention mufflers from your mustang along with the rocks and rubber etc.

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  • 2 months later...

Okay $10K Competitive Mustang with all of the trimmings...

You pick the car...I'd echo the recommendations previously put forwarded, the '94-95 Mustang GT or Cobra (I race one myself so I'm biased). The reasons are: superior chassis to the Fox bodies and still has the 5.0 (superior to the 4.6 in my opinion).

I won't put a value on the "donor" car, that will be your call.

All cars will require what I'll call base level modifications:

Stripping the car - your labor only

Cage with subframe connectors: $2-3K for a new professional cage - call Hanksville Hotrods for the A, B & Cs

Race seat ~$500

Belts ~$150

Extinguisher ~$50

Wheels - ~$0 - 600 (use your own or buy new wheels)

Tires ~$1000 (every one will have to have Toyo RA1s)

Brakes - PBS Cobras ~ $500 (you could go custom - $1200)

Brake pads ~ $300

Caster/camber plates ~$200-350

Struts & shocks ~$600

Springs ~ $250

Gearing ~$500

Headers + exhaust ~$350 + 250

 

Okay - you're in for a car + ~$8K (I probably missed some ancillary parts but you're in the ball park).

I would not guess this amount changes much between Camaros and Mustangs. (Raybob & Cody, please weigh in).

There is a bunch of labor and time to go along with either choice. This is why some prefer to buy a well sorted out car versus a pristine car and build from the ground up.

 

There are several great places to source your parts, here are 3 where you can get well sorted kits:

Maximum Motor Sports

Steeda

Global West

 

In the big sceme of things, this is very inexpensive to go full bore road racing with the best bunch of guys I've ever met. Everyone pulls together to help get you on the track and will race you hard but clean. You'll have the time of your life!

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