bluebandit48 Posted April 17, 2012 Share Posted April 17, 2012 I thought it might have been computer related too.. so I changed plug wires and my ignition control module and got nothing. My car used to get hot but now its melting my shoe its so hot from the exhaust (thus the exhaust wrap thread). I was told this could also be due to the fuel starve problem. Running so lean it heats up the exhaust more. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doug1548534725 Posted April 17, 2012 Share Posted April 17, 2012 What kind of water/oil temps do you run? Maybe you're running into a knock/spark retard situation due to heat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bluebandit48 Posted April 17, 2012 Share Posted April 17, 2012 It does it at any temp. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adam Ginsberg Posted April 17, 2012 Share Posted April 17, 2012 Its a brand new pump. FWIW, new does not always = good. BTDT. If you think it's fuel related, a fuel pressure gauge can help determine exactly what's going on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Al F. Posted April 19, 2012 Members Share Posted April 19, 2012 Good call Adam. Its a pain to rig it up, but worth your time to set up a fuel pressure gauge you can see while you're driving. Doesnt have to be permanent. Is this a new fuel cell or pump setup? I've had fuel starvation issues because of an AN fitting on the suction side of the pump not being tight enough and it actually sucking in air. Didnt leak fuel out, but a quarter turn of the wrench and the problem went away. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
K Shaw Posted April 19, 2012 Share Posted April 19, 2012 Another thing. Voltage does not equal amperage. You may have 12+ volts to the pump and hardly any amps. Its a triangle. When resistance goes up. Amperage goes down and Voltage stays the same. Time to ohm out some wires and look for broken strands and or corrosion. kyle Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bluebandit48 Posted April 19, 2012 Share Posted April 19, 2012 Thanks for the tips guys I am installing an aim pressure sensor on my fuel rail so I can data log it. I will keep an eye on the volts/ amps but it is stock wiring so im not sure that is the problem.. and I will defrnatly go though and check all my fittings. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adam Ginsberg Posted April 19, 2012 Share Posted April 19, 2012 Another thing. Voltage does not equal amperage. ^^This. In my line of work, I've found many instances where we have voltage at the device, but it won't operate properly. We dig further, and find a faulty connection somewhere along the line. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adam Ginsberg Posted April 23, 2012 Share Posted April 23, 2012 Im sorry for not touching base sooner.. I did not get my air fuel raito measured when i went to the dyno but I made exactly what i was expecting to make. 264, 298. That was with the Cobra heads, 94 cobra intake, Cobra injectors, BBK equal length headers, stock intake tube, E303 cam, a little bit stiffer valve spring, and that’s about it. I did find this weekend a fuel starve problem. I run a fuel cell, and my 255 warbro fuel pump could not keep up at high RPM. This problem was fine in the rain, which is why I still managed to qualify second, and run second until a sudden loss of talent moved me back a few spots. I actually had to end the day early on Sunday because of how bad this problem was. I talked to a few people to find that my fuel pump (in line) is a pusher, not a puller, so to “correct†this I will be adding another fuel pump to my system (holley blue). I was told this has more than enough volume to pull the fuel out of the cell and not create this problem and actually fix it. SO, this was my lean issue and I believe that I have solved it. But I will have to wait and see until the next track day. Bolding mine. I forgot to mention this before, and was reminded yesterday by a fellow racer..... Section 7.22, Fuel System 7.22.1 A maximum of one fuel pump and one pickup are allowed with the following restrictions: 1. Cars retaining the stock fuel tank may use any fuel pump that fits in the factory location. 2. Cars equipped with a fuel cell may use any fuel pump and mount it anywhere outside of the passenger compartment. You can only use a single fuel pump. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bluebandit48 Posted April 23, 2012 Share Posted April 23, 2012 sweet... back to the drawing board. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cozog1548534733 Posted April 23, 2012 Author Share Posted April 23, 2012 Rob, Did you check all the grounds related to fuel delivery? Robin's car dies at M-O because a ground bolt had become slightly loose and it was losing the connection. A 1/4 turn of the bolt and all was good again. Just my thoughts... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom P Posted April 23, 2012 Share Posted April 23, 2012 I have an appointment for this Thursday to get dyno'd again. Also to include fuel/air ratio graph. I've checked mostly everything out and think the problem of low power and lean fuel air ratio was low fuel pressure. Didn't find any obvious electrical gremlins. So installed Holley adjustable fuel regulator bumped to 45lbs and removed/reset the distributor and timing @14 degrees. I think it's improved enough to be worthy of another set of dyno pulls. New dyno results to follow Thursday. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bluebandit48 Posted April 24, 2012 Share Posted April 24, 2012 Good to hear Tom. Who are you using for dyno? And yes Todd. As soon as i heard of that, it was the first thing i checked. I think at this point, it will be cheeper to re install a stock fuel tank and sell my fuel cell. Its another 500 bucks for an in tank pump and box set up from fuel safe. Which in 3 years i will have to send out and get re certified. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom P Posted April 24, 2012 Share Posted April 24, 2012 Who are you using for dyno? I'm using Jake's this year, just off Utica Rd. Lidio @ Alternative is good too. http://www.jakesautomotive.com/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bluebandit48 Posted April 24, 2012 Share Posted April 24, 2012 yep same place I go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doug1548534725 Posted April 24, 2012 Share Posted April 24, 2012 I think at this point, it will be cheeper to re install a stock fuel tank and sell my fuel cell. Its another 500 bucks for an in tank pump and box set up from fuel safe. Which in 3 years i will have to send out and get re certified. What do you need to get recertified in 3 years? Bladders must be under 5 years old, and I would expect it would be easier and quicker to just buy a new one when the 5 years comes so you'll have no need to re-certify. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Al F. Posted April 25, 2012 Members Share Posted April 25, 2012 NASA requires you to sign a form certifying that the fuel cell bladder is within the required age. This is done as part of the annual safety inspection. Cars have been running with a single external pump that size and a fuel cell for decades. The fundamentals are ok, something specific in this particular car is the problem. I wouldnt jump to throwing big money at it just yet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bluebandit48 Posted April 25, 2012 Share Posted April 25, 2012 yes.. i know.. i have the sheet.. and it is already 2 years old.. thus.. 3 years for re certify.. even then its another 500 bucks for a new fuel cell if I just bought a new one. Junk yard tank sounds pretty good right now. lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CMC#11 Posted April 25, 2012 Share Posted April 25, 2012 I got my fox tank at O'Reilly for about $100. There's the "fox" advantage!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom P Posted May 4, 2012 Share Posted May 4, 2012 Dyno completed today. 258HP & 295 Torque. Instead of running lean, now on the rich side. Since the last dyno run an adjustable fuel regulator was installed and a faulty injector (open circuit) replaced. Track tested April 29th and ran pretty good. Motor Mods: 1987 short block & cam Cobra intake & throttle body 19lb injectors GT computer GT 40 heads (3 bar) Cobra roller rockers underdrive pulleys Shorty headers & H-pipe Spin Tech side exit mufflers [/img] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DrC Posted May 4, 2012 Share Posted May 4, 2012 This looks good - there may be hope for me and my set-up. I am still on the low side but fixed the Lean issue with 24 lb injectors. Currently at 242 hp and 275 torque. but my A/F is setting at 13.1. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roadracerwhite Posted May 5, 2012 Share Posted May 5, 2012 Dyno completed today. 258HP & 295 Torque. Instead of running lean, now on the rich side. Since the last dyno run an adjustable fuel regulator was installed and a faulty injector (open circuit) replaced. Track tested April 29th and ran pretty good. Motor Mods: 1987 short block & cam Cobra intake & throttle body 19lb injectors GT computer GT 40 heads (3 bar) Cobra roller rockers underdrive pulleys Shorty headers & H-pipe Spin Tech side exit mufflers [/img] Glad you got it fixed ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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