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4cyl in AI?


mcmmotorsports

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I have been reading the AI Rules for '06 and noticed that it says the following:

There is no minimum weight for 4 or 6 cylinder powered AI cars.

Has anyone ever tried running a 4 cylinder car in AI?

I know that you can get one (4cyl car) to scale out at around 2,100 lbs without driver.

Curious as to how competitive or not competitive this would be.

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Thanks Ryan, I read that thread but didn't want to bring it back from the dead and besides, I was curious about an N/A 2.3, not Turbocharged.

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There's been so much development to the 2.3 over the years that making the horsepower is no problem, but I have no idea what kind of torque they make in NA form. That might be an issue. What would be wicked would be an ex-Trans Am turbo four in AIX.

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  • 2 weeks later...

My car is running and almost ready for tech inspection, after the expense of building it I hope I can afford to run at least one race this year, It's a SVO.

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My car is running and almost ready for tech inspection, after the expense of building it I hope I can afford to run at least one race this year, It's a SVO.

 

Details, please

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Uh oh, tech director wanting details, I just have to finish the bulkhead between the fuel cell and the pass compartment, install the fire ext and label the master batt switch, otherwise it is a Griggs suspended car (older stuff) with a pretty much stock motor, just a few items, header, bigger intercooler, and larger injectors, right now with the stock doors (power windows) it weighs 2680 so I figure dial back the boost to the 280 hp level and see how bad the high power V8s tromp me, my only chance will be at tight tracks like Buttonwillow, at Willow springs a big HP track i will just be a back marker.within the next 30 to 60 days I hope to be ready for tech.

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Sad but true, 2680 without driver, yea I know I should be able to get it lighter than that, and I am working on that, I am no better than a V8 car, I can only hope the balance of the car is a little better, pictures, why it is just a fox body with a wheezy turbo 4 cyl, it has horrible lag, then goes from 90 hp to 300 hp in the blink of an eye, road racing a 2 wheel drive turbo car is very hard, it has a powerband like a 2 stroke, add the fact that it is a early 80s primitive EEC4 car, in fact one of fords 1st efforts at efi which is really a handfull when exiting a turn under lag oh i mean boost oh s#!t the rear bumper is leading, ok lift, oh no more lag oh wait it's under boost again, hurry lift before the rear bumper gets by again, this thing is pretty funny to drive, if i can ever get a reasonable power curve out of it, it might run ok, this was not my 1st choice in cars, it was just so cheap i wasnt going to pass it up.

I will try to load some pics.

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It was just so much lighter than the stock handbrake, cables and brackets i couldent resist, besides the car was missing the cables, and drifting looks pretty cool, but I would need a tire sponsor 1st.

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How did you attach the shift linkage at the transmission? Looks like a rod end, but to be effective it must be some sort of solid link to allow side to side movement for proper shifting? Closer photo?

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yes it is a rod end at the bottom, and the upper link has 3 small bearings stacked and pressed in a sleeve at each end with a shoulderd bolt, this was a quick slap together to see if it would even work (notice the lack of paint) but I am happy with it, the total throw is 2.75 1st to 2nd I was concerned that the upshift into 3rd would be difficult, so far it seems ok I might lower the upper link at the handle or raise it at the trans to reduce the ratio down to get 3.5 or 4" travel, the best part is the handle goes straight foreward and back, not up and down like a extended handle on a stock shifter, I cant load pictures, but I could send some to somebody who could.

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I have to add the upper link is the most important part, it has to zero side to side movement, I might consider a bushing instead of bearings, a very tight bushing, and the lower pivot must be on the same plane as the shifter pivot in the trans, otherwise it wants to bind up.

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both of the ends on the upper link have bearings in them, they are the 3 small ones stacked and pressed into the sleeves, with the shoulderd bolt, If you are thinking of building one i would consider two links, one on each side of the handle and the shifter sticking out of the trans, that would be a more robust setup, and i would use a nylatron or some fairly hard bushing material, make the fit tight, so you reduce noise and vibration up through the shifter, the long bracket that i made that bolts to the two bolts on the trans is not thick enough .500 it flexes a little pulling into 2nd gear (downward)

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  • 4 weeks later...

You're going to beat me to the track. We probably won't make a race this year, we hope to test at Thunderhill on Nov. 24th. I just got it back from the fabricator with everything finished but some paint, minor wiring, final "nut and bolt" and mounting the lexan windows. I'll get it on the scales this weekend, if its not 110 out, and see what it weighs, hoping to be about 2300 dry. We plan to take it to the dyno in mid-September to fire up the ECU and get the mule motor running.

 

Bob

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turbo or n/a?, I hope you get down to 2300# I came in heavier than I hoped, and the whole idea is about a light weight, well balanced car,

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