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kgobey

Yet another car classification question

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kgobey

1.6

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GAC

How far can I got before I jump up another class?

 

You can do 18 more points of mods and still stay in TTE. On the 40th point, you'll move to TTD.

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kgobey

1.6

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kgobey

I see your point about staying in TTE... Looks like I have room to spare even if I go as far as I really want to.

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FocusTed

Well it looks like you have 18 points to play with in TTE. Might want to look for track tires (like Toyo RA-1 +5), Brake Pads +1, Non-OEM Rotors +1, and take out weight!!!!!.

 

You have a lot of points to use for weight removal, if you want too. The first 100lbs are free, and it cost points after that. HP/WT ratio is the key. If you can't take out weight...then look to add power.

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kbrew8991

If you can stand to axe 9 points you could drop back into TTF

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kgobey

After doing Autobahn in a 330 ZHP Friday, I think faster is better than slower hahaha...

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kbrew8991

I haven't had much issue with getting caught in corners yet.... straights on the other hand I'm looking backwards more than I' looking forwards

 

dropping points is typically free (unless you don't have your stock stuff anymore...) but gaining points

 

maybe I'm just a cheapskate... heh

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kgobey

No.... I think you're sane...

 

I have AX'ed and TT'd this ting since 1993... Owned since 1990...

 

It's time to repair/rebuild and update the little reliable baby...

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kbrew8991

I started building my MR2 for ES, but since I started doing TT I haven't added the requisite front swaybar, ditched the factory catback, etc since I'm at 19 total points in TTF as I sit

 

they managed to get me for (and the points are as I remember them, I know its 19 total on my classing sheet with these items)

- base handicap (+7)

- Toyota's replacement alignment bolts to acheive an agressive alignment (+2)

- Konis (+4)

- Porterfield R4S brake pads (+1)

- Toyo RA1s (+5)

 

I've got Hoosier As for autocrossing, but without the front swaybar I can't really tune the car to autocross as well as it could and thus, I'm behind the curve at the regional level

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kgobey

An on the track, that sway really is no help at all...

 

You really need an entire coil over kit and sways for that car... My friend and I used to run one on track and solo2 stuff never worked at all... Go all the way, or not at all IMO.

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Greg G.
FM Rear strut tower mounting plates

Kieran, are these poly, spherical, camber adjustable?

Also, how are you getting camber adjustment for the car?

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kgobey

Those rear strut mounts are these:

 

http://www.flyinmiata.com/index.php?deptid=4537&parentid=0&stocknumber=13-57100%20%2010MM

 

The Miata certainly benefits greatly from being lower - lower the better as with anything, but it's definitely beyond the basic benefit of some cars with Chapman Strut (non Double Wishbone) suspensions. The limiting factor though is rear wheel travel. Below 5 inches and under 350lb spring rates and you are looking at a very sore ass... These actually add an additional inch of travel to an already lowered car, the benefit, your limiting factor is now front-end clearance and spring rates. A far more pleasing solution.

 

Camber adjustment in the Miata is not achieved via the traditional camber plate. You can adjust as much as you need (on a lowered Miata anyway) via the factory camber adjustments on the control arms.

 

Sorry... My brain is full this morning and I needed to pour some out.

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Greg G.
A teflon-lined, stainless steel spherical bearing locates the top of the shock.

That is from the above website. These mounts are bordering on relocating the suspension mounting points, by raising them 1 inch, but cross over to the "spacer" discussion we recently had in regard to camber plates. Either way, they aren't free. They do have spherical bearings. I suppose we could possibly "call them" camber plates, and then the pillow ball/spherical joint is free with the +2 assessment for camber plates--but this 1 inch change is still bothersome. There are older Mustangs taking +12 for relocating suspension mounting points for not doing much more than relocating their top mounting points. Unless you want to have other spherical joints in the future, then just take the +3 for metallic/spherical bushings.

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kgobey
A Teflon-lined, stainless steel spherical bearing locates the top of the shock.

 

That is from the above website.

 

Yeah, cool, I recognized it...

 

These mounts are bordering on relocating the suspension mounting points, by raising them 1 inch, but cross over to the "spacer" discussion we recently had in regard to camber plates.

 

Agreed in essence... However, the actual angles of the shock absorber remain the same. It does not take advantage of anything more than the travel of the shock 20mm (less than 1 inch) at the shock and 33mm (1.25 inches) at the wheel... No other advantage is gained.

 

Either way, they aren't free.

 

Most certainly not free.

 

They do have spherical bearings. I suppose we could possibly "call them" camber plates, and then the pillow ball/spherical joint is free with the +2 assessment for camber plates--but this 1 inch change is still bothersome.

 

Agreed. I defer to your decision... I have yet to buy them. If I don't get to have them, then, I'll be bothered by it, but not enough to cry like a 5 year old whose Ice Cream was taken by his big brother

 

There are older Mustangs taking +12 for relocating suspension mounting points for not doing much more than relocating their top mounting points.

 

Seems that they are gaining far more than 20mm of shock travel from their adjustment... Though I do not know the details.

 

Unless you want to have other spherical joints in the future, then just take the +3 for metallic/spherical bushings.

 

Well of course it's to my absolute advantage to have as few points assessed for this part as possible, especially if the advantage is to have future changes already "paid for" with this alteration.

 

As I mentioned, there has been no money spent so far. If you can get a consensus on this part from Tech I will be very happy to comply with any decision made. Then maybe we can get this particular part assessed the same points as a "standard" for all future Miata owners.

 

12 points though is insane.

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Greg G.
12 points though is insane

Why does everyone always say that? Just kidding. I agree that it's not worth close to 12 points. It's more a matter of the wording of the rule, than the intent.

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kgobey
12 points though is insane

Why does everyone always say that? Just kidding.

 

haha

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Greg G.

I think that one issue we will be taking a much closer look at when the season is over is camber, caster, plates, and strut mounts/spacers, etc. So, for now, you would just take the +2 or +3 that I mentioned above. In '07--not sure yet, but it won't be "insane"

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kgobey
I think that one issue we will be taking a much closer look at when the season is over is camber, caster, plates, and strut mounts/spacers, etc. So, for now, you would just take the +2 or +3 that I mentioned above. In '07--not sure yet, but it won't be "insane"

 

Cool... - only issue left then is to get my ass on-line to order the parts, schedule the car for another alignment, and decide to buy the roll hoop or get one custom fabbed for me, then find out (being 6'3") that I need a racing seat...

 

The path to car modification and track driving is well worn for me... I have done this for a long time (long enough that I was Jeff Henderson's first instructor - ever), but it's also been a long time since I did it regularly, and if I really am going to do it again (Track events rather than solo2) I really need to focus on the details and get everything taken care of down to the last nut and bolt...

 

Patience is a virtue I am willing to hold onto.

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