genikz Posted October 10, 2006 Posted October 10, 2006 Okay guys, based on a few quick conversations here and there, I feel that you guys are right (but you already knew that, didn't you?). I need to get on track with my 924S and that's that. I have the following: light weight battery new(ish) rad konis, camber plates, torsion bars and adj. ride height fronts 15x7 phonies w/good rubber good rotors plenty of brake pad left on each corner recently tuned up engine (vacuum lines, plugs, plug wires & air filter) all new suspension bushings newish control arms w/newish ball joints I need to do the following: install and index torsion bars replace bushings replace rod bearings, oil pan gasket reinstall oil cooler re-wire cooling fans assemble front struts replace trans fluid I have a break of about 4 weeks between this semester and next semester (Dec 20 - Jan 21) in which to get nearly all of the labor done. My budget is currently $600 to get this pig ready to run as reliable as possible given the mileage. I'm getting married in February, so this budget is set in stone. I've never broken an engine down, or even removed an oil pan before, but I have no doubt I can replace rod bearings. I have access to a 1-ton engine hoist and most of the tools I need. If anybody can provide any advice, pointers, do/don'ts, etc etc I would be grateful. My main concerns/questions are: 1. Should I do a head gasket too, as preventative maintenance? 2. Should I pull the crank out and have it cross-drilled? 3. Should I try to source another 951 oil cooler, since the one I wasted $130 is absolutely f#$&*d? 4. Should I replace the timing belt & balance shaft belt "while I'm in there" (they are both relatively new, but I don't know what brand they are, or if they are even the correct belts as a gas station put them in based on a receipt I found in the glovebox). 5. If I don't have the funds for a proper corner-balance, what is the minimum I should do? 4 wheel alignment? More?? Thanks in advance for listening to my ramblings... Chris B. Quote
944-Spec#94 Posted October 10, 2006 Posted October 10, 2006 Ok some thoughts 1) Replace rod bearings & pan gasket. This is prevention and important to keeping the motor together. Worse case is you have hole in you block. Parts cost is maybe $100? 2) Timing belt & balance belt. Cost is about $50 for the set and doing it good thing. If it goes you have a bunch of bent valves. Keep the water pump that is on the car. 3) Don’t touch the head. Yes you could pop the gasket, but probably not and doing so means the head comes of anyway. Keep and eye on the coolant level and temps and you should be fine. 4) Oil cooler… if you can’t get a 951 unit stay stock. I ran stock for a long time. The 951 unit is insurance, but I feel ok with the stock cooler especially if you don’t run in the summer time. 5) Crank leave in the car. Don’t touch the crank till you a ready to pull the engine. Doing the crank pretty much means doing the entire engine. At this point new rod bearings are the best way to go. 6) You don’t need a corner balance, but with camber gauge and a tape measure you can align the car enough to get you out there. It would probably take you 1 year of driving before you tell a corner balanced car from a non-corner balanced car. I need to do the following: install and index torsion bars – I have routine to do this that makes it much easier Effort is 2 days - link should be on our website. replace bushings - Do the bushings if the suspension is off the car time is 30-60 min if you are in there replace rod bearings, oil pan gasket - 12hrs for first time job. I think I can do it in 6 hrs, but take your time on putting the pan back on. Otherwise you can cock it and it will leak. reinstall oil cooler – 2hrs stock cooler & assorted parts re-wire cooling fans – 60 min depending on how good you are with wiring assemble front struts - 2hrs for both ends with springs replace trans fluid – do it while you do the t-bars – takes 30 min. As for advice... the hardest things are t-bars and rod bearings. When you are readly you can call me and we can talk about and issue you have. BTW... I did I tell you blew up my motor in a Thanksgiving enduro in 2002. Working weekends only and 4 days around Christmas I pulled the engine, rebuilt a second engine and installed 30 mm t-bars. Plus aligned the car. First time doing an engine rebuild and 2nd time doing t-bars. I got the car out for Jan 3-5, 2003 event and won both races that weekend. Oh... I even changed the tranny fluid too. Quote
genikz Posted October 10, 2006 Author Posted October 10, 2006 BTW... I did I tell you blew up my motor in a Thanksgiving enduro in 2002. Working weekends only and 4 days around Christmas I pulled the engine, rebuilt a second engine and installed 30 mm t-bars. Plus aligned the car. First time doing an engine rebuild and 2nd time doing t-bars. I got the car out for Jan 3-5, 2003 event and won both races that weekend. Oh... I even changed the tranny fluid too. Show off... Thanks for the response Joe. The more I look into doing all this, the better I feel about it. for the record, I yanked the motor on my daily driver, replaced the flywheel, clutch, timing belt, water pump and t-stat in 10 days, working full time during the week putting in maybe 4 hours per night. Before that I had only changed my oil before... I was shocked when it started right up and stayed in one piece Quote
Cory M Posted October 10, 2006 Posted October 10, 2006 Make sure you get new rod nuts to go with those bearings. You should use Plastigage to determine whether or not you need the oversized bearings. There are a couple of how to articles on the web, I believe one is on Paragon Products web page. Joe's spreadsheet works great and I indexed my bars properly the first time through with it. If you're replacing the timing and balance belts you should make sure the front engine seals look good (crank, bal shaft, etc). If they are leaking replace them. The front engine seal kit I bought from Paragon was missing the crank seal and came with some stuff I didn't need, next time I'll order each seal separetly. I wouldn't touch the head or remove the crank. You can run on the stock oil cooler too then upgrade it when you get extra cash/time. Get it aligned to the right specs (especially toe). Quote
n wright Posted October 11, 2006 Posted October 11, 2006 Where's that speradsheet on the torsion bars? I'm planning on installing mine tomorrow and need a refresher. I've got everything apart and will also be installing poly bushings (inner outer on the torsion tub carrier) as well as the ones that attach to the body with the large bolt going through them Quote
genikz Posted October 11, 2006 Author Posted October 11, 2006 Where's that speradsheet on the torsion bars? It's near the bottom IIRC: http://members.rennlist.com/m758/TbarReindex.htm Quote
Tim Comeau Posted October 20, 2006 Posted October 20, 2006 Chris, I started driving my 87 924S with half a frickin' suspension on it! I'm serious! 250 lb springs 30 mm torsions Fat front sway bar NO REAR SWAY BAR Koni's all around No camber plates NO bushings Just get the damn thing reliable and on the track so you can have some fun with it! Quote
944-Spec#94 Posted October 20, 2006 Posted October 20, 2006 Chris,I started driving my 87 924S with half a frickin' suspension on it! 250 lb springs 30 mm torsions Fat front sway bar NO REAR SWAY BAR Koni's all around No camber plates NO bushings Actually Tim that suspension package can work very well. Glenn Gormely's overweight underpowered #44 war wagon was set-up like that and was faster than snot. Personally I don't know why it works, but it can work. Quote
genikz Posted October 20, 2006 Author Posted October 20, 2006 Just get the damn thing reliable and on the track so you can have some fun with it! Don't worry Tim, I've come to that conclusion. New rod bearings just arrived and she'll be together by January. BTW, can any of you guys confirm that this is the measurement I'll be checking with Plastiguage? "Connecting Rod Bearing Radial Play 0.034 -- 0.092" Quote
944-Spec#94 Posted October 20, 2006 Posted October 20, 2006 Just get the damn thing reliable and on the track so you can have some fun with it! Don't worry Tim, I've come to that conclusion. New rod bearings just arrived and she'll be together by January. BTW, can any of you guys confirm that this is the measurement I'll be checking with Plastiguage? "Connecting Rod Bearing Radial Play 0.034 -- 0.092" I don't have manual in front of me, but I believe that is correct. Quote
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