Holster Maker Posted January 13, 2007 Share Posted January 13, 2007 Mustangs are bottom breathers, esp the Fox body. The bottom air deflector is a must. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Patrick W. Posted January 13, 2007 Members Share Posted January 13, 2007 I took off the splitter, and put the deflector back on. Now the car runs great. I think I might eventually put the splitter back on, except this time I won't run it all the way back to the radiator support. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onralz Posted January 13, 2007 Share Posted January 13, 2007 Having the deflector on most definitely helps. I had pretty good success with the deflector on the car that is pictured below. I also bolted in the brake ducts to the deflector. The car ran about 220 degree water temps on a hot day. When I changed the car and went to American Iron instead of American Grand Sport, I added the front splitter. When I added the front splitter, I dropped an average of 30 degrees. I actually had to make the opening smaller as it was putting too much air through the radiator. I'm also guessing that it is creating excessive drag the way it's setup. My point here is that I don't think the splitter theory is your problem. My guess is how the splitter was made was. Mine isn't the perfect scenario and I'm not an engineer, but it works. Hope this helps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rppngears91 Posted January 13, 2007 Author Share Posted January 13, 2007 Mar, I too have doubts about a front splitter causing over heating. GREAT pics by the way!!! THanksa lot, I like to get as many ideas as possible. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Patrick W. Posted January 13, 2007 Members Share Posted January 13, 2007 I didn't funnel the air in the front and up throught the radiator with a box the way the pics show. All I did was bolt up a sheet of aluminum to the bottom of the saleen airdam. This eliminated all airflow from underneath. Since I didn't have the box channeling air into the rad, the nose didn't offer enough flow. This is proven, because the car was running 230-240. When the splitter was removed it went to 180-195. I do like the pics, and this setup is something I'm entertaining. Thanks Pat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onralz Posted January 15, 2007 Share Posted January 15, 2007 I didn't funnel the air in the front and up throught the radiator with a box the way the pics show. All I did was bolt up a sheet of aluminum to the bottom of the saleen airdam. This eliminated all airflow from underneath.Since I didn't have the box channeling air into the rad, the nose didn't offer enough flow. This is proven, because the car was running 230-240. When the splitter was removed it went to 180-195. I do like the pics, and this setup is something I'm entertaining. Thanks Pat Pretty it's not, but it is functional. Kind of resembles it's owner I guess. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RichardP Posted February 24, 2007 Share Posted February 24, 2007 I'm not even sure these "home grown" things AI racers are bolting on help at all. Also a huge cluster in the paddock to get a car on/off the trailer. I've had a splitter and wing on my AI car for a while now. It does make a difference. I had the opportunity to test last year with and without the added aero while a data acquisition system was in the car. I've posted a write up of my findings on Corner-Carvers. You can't upload pictures to this site so I'll just give you the link (http://corner-carvers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=33233). If someone else wants to host the pictures they are welcome to dump them here. My splitter easily came off in less than ten minutes to get the car on the trailer. Also important for the open trailer guys is the ability to quickly and repeatably adjust the rear wing. My rig would become unstable at about 70 mph when the rear down force unloaded the tongue weight if I didn’t adjust the angle of attack. The other important design consideration is the ability of the splitter to completely be ripped off without damaging the car when stuff goes bad. Repairing the splitter is an annoying but real part of this little game. Richard P. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ST#97 Posted February 25, 2007 Share Posted February 25, 2007 I'm not even sure these "home grown" things AI racers are bolting on help at all. Also a huge cluster in the paddock to get a car on/off the trailer. I've had a splitter and wing on my AI car for a while now. It does make a difference. I had the opportunity to test last year with and without the added aero while a data acquisition system The other important design consideration is the ability of the splitter to completely be ripped off without damaging the car when stuff goes bad. Repairing the splitter is an annoying but real part of this little game. Richard P. Yep to everything Mr. Pederson said. For you SN95 and 99+ cars, the 2000 Cobra R nose is a great start for a splitter. I am using a fiberglass unit from a local source and modifying it with the lower panel and a few other things I have up my sleeve. The PITA about this is that off course excursions get costly both in time and parts so you have to make these things pretty strong which adds weight....but an off in Qual won't ruin your weekend. For 07, I plan on carrying a spare nose...especially to nationals. The next question you have to ask is are you making enough horsepower to push all this through the air? if you are down at 2800lbs, you are going to get killed on the long tracks. There are trade offs for every setup and every track. For our large 2.9 mile track with a front straight with speeds nearing 150-155...it takes a lot of HP to push that through the air. At our 1.7 mile track that is polished smooth, Lots of angle of attack on the wing and something on the front is 120% needed to stay on the track...and hp to push it. Richard's advantage is that he happens to be a rocket scientist... I have tried to pick up anything I can from him when he slips and let's out little secrets!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D Algozine Posted February 28, 2007 Share Posted February 28, 2007 Looking for some info on what gauge aluminum to use for a splitter and what gauge to use to make an air box for the radiator? I'm planning on .090 for the splittler and .063 for the air box. Obviously, I'l like to go a light as possible. Thanks Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nape Posted February 28, 2007 Share Posted February 28, 2007 No clue on the splitter, but I used 26ga (.018 according to the chart I found) for my airbox then used drywall corner caps (IIRC, but might have been from metal studs) for the edges. Rock solid after I screwed it to the nose. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.