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Wilwood or CNC dual brake master cylinder set up help...


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Posted

On a AI Mustang I have eliminated the power brake booster and going to a dual master cylinder brake set up with remote reservior. Both CNC and Wilwood make a great brake pedal/master cylinder set-up but I can't figure out how to use this set up and the factory, or other clutch and throttle pedals. I want to keep the clutch on a cable.

 

Am I missing something here... do you totally replace the factory pedal assembly and if so with what clutch and throttle pedal parts.

 

Any help and pics would be appreciated.

 

Thanks, Ron

Posted

I have a wilwood dual pedal, triple cylinder revers mount setup and I made rails with multiple holes so I could move the pedals around. I built my own throttle and a mounting system for it that attaches under the pedal mounting rails and moves with the pedals. The mounting bracket has a mount for the throttle cable and throttle stops as well. So far it works well in the garage but I have not had the car out on track yet so I don't have full data. I went through a whole lot to get the whole system where it is. All because I wanted the pedals to be adjustable. That being said, the throttle cable bulkhead must terminate at the same mount that holds the throttle pedal and move with it otherwise there will be problems with throttle positioning. If your pedals will never move you can make a simpler setup and attach the throttle cable bulkhead elsewhere. You can also make a bracket to hold the factory throttle and you also have the option of using an aftermarket pedal. Coleman makes some really nice adjustable ones. I can duplicate what I have and send it to you, but it is very time consuming and will not be cheap.

Posted

I did see the double pedal setup and inquired about switching the cable driven clutch to a (3) master cylinder set-up. In addition to the roughly $500 conversion for the throwout set-up, I just don't see the need for it.

 

So, I'm back to what looks like a seperate throttle pedal and seperate clutch (cable) pedal, with the (new) dual brake master set up mounted between the two.

 

That is what I will probably end up going with. My question is how to bracket that set-up?

 

Make sense?

 

Ron

Posted

First thing you need to do is look for a single pedal/brake assembly with the dual master setup. They (Tilton/Wilwood) don't make them anymore but I have one at home. Let me know if you are interested, a PM will do.

 

I was using that dual master brake pedal assembly with the stock clutch pedal for the cable actuated clutch and it worked great. You just need to fab up the mounts for the pedals, no biggie.

Posted

Let me get a bit more into the actual set-up and I'll get back with you.

 

Thanks, Ron

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Wilwood, Tilton, CNC or AP Racing all manufacture good pedal assemblies. I would use AP Racing but that’s just me. We used CNC in our AIX car. Get a complete proper pedal assembly…clutch, brake (dual cylinder) and throttle.

 

I would also use a hydraulic clutch system. I’m not a big fan of cable systems and you can design the system to reduce travel required to disengage the clutch.

 

If the AI rules allow it I would also install a brake fluid recirculation system. This system completely exchanges the front brake fluid every sixth pump of the brake pedal thereby eliminating overheating the brake fluid. It also is self-bleeding as you use the brakes. Your brake pedal will never get soft or long. Get the optional pressure bleed off system that bleeds pressure from the rear brake master cylinder to the front brake master cylinder. It eliminates rear brake lockup and the need for a bias bar or proportioning valve. The whole system is just $200 and is one of the best investments you will ever make in your car.

 

One of the most important aspects of racing is to be comfortable in your car. People will spend inordinate amounts of money and time getting their seats and steering wheels “just rightâ€

Posted

Hey Dana, it's been a long time.

 

Thanks for the kudos. Are you going guys coming back to race with us?

Posted

I have heard that the old TCP car is doing 1:53's at TH just recently. Is that true?

 

That is smoking fast.

Posted

The car now belongs to Kevin Sitner who owns Precision Machines in Lodi, CA. When we ran it had about 525 HP at the flywheel, weighed 2800 lb less driver and had 315s in the rear and 275s up front.. It now has a Dart aluminum block dry sump motor at “somewhere between 700 and 800 HPâ€

Posted

I'll take you up on that steering wheel

 

Let me know when I need to send you the specs.

 

I hope to see you guys around the tracks soon..

Posted

Hi Dana,

 

Long time no hear

 

Looking forward to meet you again 69's are very cool models no matter what brand it is.

Posted

Ernesto,

 

OK…here is the story/rumor about the TCP car’s 1:53s at TH. He says the car actually weighs 2,525 lb less driver, wet and 10 gallons of fuel. It has a 50/50 weight distribution. He also says he has lowered the car more. I was wrong, he is still running 275s up front as most of the weight (300 lb!) was taken off the front end and he says he doesn’t think 315s would make any improvement. It has a 402 c.i. all aluminum engine at “well over 700 HPâ€

Posted

Dana,

 

I will measeure the steering wheel and get back to you, thanks

 

With my car as it is I may be able to go down in the 53's at TH with a slight tailwind on the front straight, cool temps and no traffic. But it is only putting down around 345-350 rwhp on a "Mustang" dyno. That is my guesstimate laptime. My best was a 55 over a year ago and I am pretty sure the car is much better now than it was then. I hope to run TH again next year with a better engine package, right gearing, etc..Man I love that track..

 

700 hp with an aluminum motor is very stout and only around 2700 with driver, WOW.

 

That thing should be scary fast..Can I drive it

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