steering wheel lock removal: help needed

[Mystic_Cobra]

Anyone know how to safely remove the steering wheel lock from an SN95 column?

 

Thanks!

[Frank Corkran]

Haven't done it (didn't you do this once already?) but here's what my Chilton's says about it as part of removing a lock cylinder if you can't put the cylinder into RUN position".

 

[stuff about removing the cylinder with chisel and drill]

"Remove the snapring or retainer, washer and steering column lock gear."

[stuff about cleaning out drill shavings and inspection]

"Install the ignition lock drive gear, washer and retainer."

 

If you have the key then you only need to put it into RUN position and use an 1/8" drill bit through the hole to release the cylinder. I seem to recall seeing the snapring and rack mechanism at the bottom of the lock cylinder housing when I replaced the lock on my Fox.

Or you could use the method employed on my Mystic Cobra:

 

Remove steering column.

Replace with solid steering shaft, firewall bearing and dashbar mount.

[Mystic_Cobra]

I was under the impression that the steering wheel lock is separate from the ignition switch lock.

I have not done this before. I have swapped an entire steering column before, but I wasn't planning to bypass the ignition system just yet.

[Frank Corkran]

Since turning the key to LOCK is what locks the steering, they can't be totally separate but good point - totally removing the gear mechanism would also remove the connection between the key and the ignition switch. Sorry, while I've had them apart before I was never looking to disable the lock feature so I can't recall the exact details. Of course it might be obvious once you remove the cylinder and ignition switch. Unlike my older GM truck, none of my manuals show details of the steering lock mechanism on Fords.

[Black Horse]

Jimmy:

 

Its hard to explain this over the internet - but you can defeat the locking part of the mechanism and keep switch function. Pull the switch assembly from the column. You will be able to see how the locking mechanism engages, then break off the lock tab/lever - you may have to grind the mechanism off with a die grinder.

[Mystic_Cobra]

Jimmy:

 

Its hard to explain this over the internet - but you can defeat the locking part of the mechanism and keep switch function. Pull the switch assembly from the column. You will be able to see how the locking mechanism engages, then break off the lock tab/lever - you may have to grind the mechanism off with a die grinder.

 

"Break off" and "Grinder". That I can handle.

 

thanks for the tip!

[Admiral]

I agree that it's difficult to describe in words but I simply took the thing apart and removed the locking pawl. No drilling or grinding needed. Put it back together in the reverse order.

[MikeP-99Z]

Blah #@$^#@$^@^

 

I didn't want to have to remove (or pay someone) to remove this damn thing.

 

Wondering if it will cause my computer to freak on security coding...

[V8cobra99]

I am struggling to figure out how to remove the steering lock. I took the key switch out okay and can see inside the hole and can kinda see how it works, but I dont know what to do from there. What do I grind or chisle?? Where? Any help would be great. My car is a 1999 Mustang.

 

andy

[Frank Corkran]

I am struggling to figure out how to remove the steering lock. I took the key switch out okay and can see inside the hole and can kinda see how it works, but I dont know what to do from there. What do I grind or chisle?? Where? Any help would be great. My car is a 1999 Mustang.

Pull the switch assembly from the column. You will be able to see how the locking mechanism engages, then break off the lock tab/lever - you may have to grind the mechanism off with a die grinder.

[V8cobra99]

Frank - I see at the end of the key switch/mechanism the tab that engages the lock mechanism, but that seems to also turn the ignition also, so if I cut that off, the car wont start at all. If I understand you correctly.....

[V8cobra99]

Okay, the yellow slide bar in the column mechnanism is part of the steering lock. I cut the back half of it off, and now the steering wheel does not lock. However, now my ignition is messed up and the car wont start. Under the mechnisim, is a white ignition box that actually springs the key back and is the part of the starter ignition, and that ties into the yellow slide bar, before I cut the yellow bar, I did not realize this. So before you cut anything, fully inspect that and understand how it works.

The steering column mech is about 10 lbs. So if I cant get this to work after my mess up, I will be scrapping it for a simpler lighter steering column.

 

what a hassel......

[white_2kgt]

Okay, the yellow slide bar in the column mechnanism is part of the steering lock. I cut the back half of it off, and now the steering wheel does not lock. However, now my ignition is messed up and the car wont start. Under the mechnisim, is a white ignition box that actually springs the key back and is the part of the starter ignition, and that ties into the yellow slide bar, before I cut the yellow bar, I did not realize this. So before you cut anything, fully inspect that and understand how it works.

The steering column mech is about 10 lbs. So if I cant get this to work after my mess up, I will be scrapping it for a simpler lighter steering column.

 

what a hassel......

 

Why do you need the ignition? Just put in a toggle switch, ON/OFF and a push button, START.

[Frank Corkran]

Under the mechnisim, is a white ignition box that actually springs the key back and is the part of the starter ignition, and that ties into the yellow slide bar, before I cut the yellow bar, I did not realize this.

 

That white box is the ignition switch. If you had removed it you would have seen a pin sticking out that goes into a notch in the slide bar. I believe you wanted to cut the end of the bar closer to the firewall, or a tab/pawl as mentioned by others above.

 

While I've eyeballed the arrangement several times I never disabled the lock so the details are fuzzy. That's why I quoted Black Horse's response instead of providing details. Sorry you didn't realize that the switch is separate from the key lock cylinder/reader.

 

The simplest thing you might do now is what the previous owner of my car did when he removed the column...pull the white switch off the column (he tie-wrapped it to the dash bar) and actuate the pin by hand. That will keep all the stock wiring the same. The factory ignition switch actually switches several independent circuits at the same time. You also need the key in the cylinder/reader if your car has coded keys for PATS. The PO had the key/reader taped together to the wiring harness as well.

 

Since I have a carbed engine and only basic wiring I did what Chad suggested and installed an ignition toggle switch and pushbutton starter switch on a fabricated instrument panel mounted to the dash bar - the stock dash, column and wiring are gone.

[V8cobra99]

W2kgt - good question, maybe I dont. However, I am still running fuel injection, ABS and other stock systems that "may" tie into the stock ignition, so at this point, I am still in need of some the stock ignition.

 

Frank - thanks. I took a break from the car today for football, but will get back on it.......

[white_2kgt]

W2kgt - good question, maybe I dont. However, I am still running fuel injection, ABS and other stock systems that "may" tie into the stock ignition, so at this point, I am still in need of some the stock ignition.

 

You don't. I can send you the pinout of the switch if you like, but basically all you need to do is supply voltage to certain wires when you want to do certain things (think, ACC/OFF/ON/START). It is a basic switch. You'll need to tie into it anyway when you hookup your cutoff switch (you want to turn the car off and kill the battery at the same time, not just kill power from the battery).

[JME1]

I'm fairly new to this forum but I did this on my 93GT about 6 months ago and I am not sure if the SN95's are the same or not but I would think so. If you pull the wheel and remove the inner steering shaft out of the stock column you will see the detents that engauge the pin locking mechanism activated by the key.

 

Machine, grind or cut them off and everything still functions in the switch as is should but there is nothing for the pin to catch on. On my 93 there is a black delrin reluctor looking part that has 4 tabs, this is for the turn signal disengage mechanism.

[rstoff]

jme1 is right. i have a 94 gt and did the lock today. you have to remove the steering column assembly from under the dash. on the front remove the turn signal stuff and slide off the turn signal cancel cam. this gives you access to the front retaining clip which you can now remove. to get the shaft out you have to remove the two pivot bolts for the tilt steering. you'll have to play around with the two steel fingers that lock the tilt and remove the tilt housing. now you should be able to slide the column out if you have removed the joint at the back of the column. you'll see that there is a collar on the shaft with two indents in it. two cuts on opposite sides with a cutoff wheel and you can knock it off.

[ST#97]

Picture links?

Edited February 18, 2007 by Guest

[ST#97]

Actually, never mind, I figured it out.

 

1. remove u joint from end of shaft near fire wall.

2. remove spring that "loads" the tilt steering..don't plan on putting it back in!

3. Remove two torqx pivot bolts and separate the column.

4. as the column comes apart, the arm/pin from the lock cylinder separates from the "block" that contains the metal/spring wheel lock and ignition switch actuator.

5. Slide out the "block" in the firewall half of the column and drive out the metal block/pin.

6. Jump for joy.

7. slide "block" back in paying careful attention that the hole that operates the ignition switch is correctly aligned.

8. Slide the halves back together over the steering shaft lining up the pivot points and the tilt steering "forks"

9. prepare to maul your fingers while attempting to "stretch" the tilt lock mechanisms back into place and voila, it all falls back into place.

10. make sure the plastic shaft/pin from the key lock pops into place on the "block", check movement and reinstall pivot bolts.

 

I suggest two sets of hands if you want to keep your skin during the "tilt lock stretch" manuever!!!

[mcmmotorsports]

Actually, mine was pretty easy....

 

 

Step 1: Get a hammer and a chisel

Step 2: Beat the living piss out of the cylinder and its housing till it breaks into a million pieces.

 

Done.

 

Now, keep in mind, I had no key for this car.

 

BTW, I did NOT type pee-piddily-diddily.

[white_2kgt]

Actually, mine was pretty easy....

 

 

Step 1: Get a hammer and a chisel

Step 2: Beat the living pee-piddily-diddily out of the cylinder and its housing till it breaks into a million pieces.

 

Done.

 

Now, keep in mind, I had no key for this car.

 

BTW, I did NOT type pee-piddily-diddily.

 

This is the AI forum, get out

[ST#97]

Actually, mine was pretty easy....

 

 

Step 1: Get a hammer and a chisel

Step 2: Beat the living pee-piddily-diddily out of the cylinder and its housing till it breaks into a million pieces.

 

Done.

 

Now, keep in mind, I had no key for this car.

 

BTW, I did NOT type pee-piddily-diddily.

 

This is the AI forum, get out

 

You say that now....just wait till he puts a small turbo on that V6 car and comes out and whoops your buttocks!

 

Bye the way, as far as the 99+ cars go...do NOT remove ANYTHING regarding PATS or other "box controlled" items...Seems there hasn't been a way to remove all that yet unless you go back to a 96-97 computer setup which is more hassle than it's worth! I spent 3 hours sitting in the car yesterday starting to peel out wiring for the heater, a/c, radio and such but left most everything else. After my mid race mishap in August with the car going into anti theft mode while leading the race....I am leaving well enough alone!!!!

[mcmmotorsports]

 

This is the AI forum, get out

 

 

You say that now....just wait till he puts a small turbo on that V6 car and comes out and whoops your buttocks!

 

[white_2kgt]

Bye the way, as far as the 99+ cars go...do NOT remove ANYTHING regarding PATS or other "box controlled" items...Seems there hasn't been a way to remove all that yet unless you go back to a 96-97 computer setup which is more hassle than it's worth! I spent 3 hours sitting in the car yesterday starting to peel out wiring for the heater, a/c, radio and such but left most everything else. After my mid race mishap in August with the car going into anti theft mode while leading the race....I am leaving well enough alone!!!!

 

uh, I haven't have ANY pats crap in my car in over a year. You just need to turn if off in the computer via the CHIP/Flash. I don't know what you are using for tuning but I have the SCT PRP and I have all the PATS functions disabled and everything works just fine. I don't even use a PATS key, I just have a $3 hardware store copy.