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Brake Line Tee Fitting


spdracer22

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I need a couple of brake line tees, but I'm having a tough time finding them. Basically what I'm wanting to do is to combine the two front brakes on one MC circuit and the two rears on the other, instead of the cross setup as it is now, in order to add an adjustable proportioning valve. Let me know if you know of anything!

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What kind of car? Do you not have a distribution block already? Often you can just reroute the lines going it and coming out to accomplish what you're talking about.

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It's a Honda Civic. The distribution block is also the oem prop valve... Since I need some more rear brake, I'm going to have to replace it.

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Not that I have done it, but would it be possible to over drill the stock prop valve? Also, another option is to tune brake bias with brake pads. Just offering options.

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My local NAPA was the only place I could find 1.0mm flare fittings and the associated distribution blocks. I'd say check them out if you have one nearby.

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Not that I have done it, but would it be possible to over drill the stock prop valve?

That's actually a pretty good idea. I didn't think of that, but it might work...I'll have to take a look...

 

My local NAPA was the only place I could find 1.0mm flare fittings and the associated distribution blocks. I'd say check them out if you have one nearby.
I do, actually. I'll run over there and see what they have.
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Not that I have done it, but would it be possible to over drill the stock prop valve?

That's actually a pretty good idea. I didn't think of that, but it might work...I'll have to take a look...

 

 

If you think about it, tunners have done this for years on carb jets with great results. I think the key here would be "baby steps". The neat thing is that if you screw it up, a new or used prop valve should be really cheap.

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I took off the stock valve, and I think it's a big 'no can do'. It's more complicated than just a couple jets, and I don't know how to get it apart without destroying it...I thought I saw a post on a forum one time on how to do it, but I don't remember where.

 

Here's what I'm after, I think: http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1093583

 

What it does is connect both MC circuits together, then split off the two front lines and one rear line. The rear line then goes to the prop valve and then T's to the rear calipers.

 

I can get this style from Jegs/Summit, but they both have integrated prop valves. I want it to be cockpit adjustable, but don't want to have to run all of the brake lines inside the cabin.

 

I wouldn't have a problem making one up like this, but I don't know how it would have to be machined. Is it as simple as drilling the block, tapping the holes, and threading in some female line connectors? It seems like it should be, and in that case I could do it. I could also make the T I would need to go to the rears as well...

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Correct me if i'm wrong, but you have two separate MC's right? Run one line off the front MC, put a T in it and run either line to the front corners. The line off of the rear MC goes through a proportioning valve that can be mounted anywhere, and continues on to the rear where it eventually splits to go to either side.

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It's a single cylinder with two circuits. Apparently, by running fronts off one circuit and rears off the other circuit, you can run into pedal return problems because of the different fluid volumes of the front and rear calipers. The better solution seems to be combining both circuits, then splitting them again into front and rear. It keeps the same pressure on each of the MC circuits, and it allows them to share the volume displacement. There have also been reports of having reduced control over the rears with this setup and a prop valve for the same reasons.

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Ah, I see. Even so, you have two separate circuits. One line coming out goes to a T and then to each corner. Other line comes out, through the proportioning valve, and then to the rear where it splits. You want to keep the circuits separate. That way, if a front line fails, you can maintain pressure to the rears and vice versa.

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Because there is only one reservoir, if you break a line on one circuit, you're going to lose all of your fluid, and won't have any brakes anyway...

 

One good thing is that I'll be keeping my e-brake installed, so I'll have a mechanical backup if something were to happen...

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  • 4 weeks later...

NAPA can get pretty much everything. Can be hard to track them down, but they've got em'. Are the Metric Bubble, standard, ISO, Japanese, European, blah blah blah. Sometimes you just have to buy different lines, and mix/match the fittings.

 

Vettes use Bubble-flares, and converting to US is a PITA!

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Correct me if i'm wrong, but you have two separate MC's right? Run one line off the front MC, put a T in it and run either line to the front corners. The line off of the rear MC goes through a proportioning valve that can be mounted anywhere, and continues on to the rear where it eventually splits to go to either side.

 

I dont think a honda has 2 Master Cylinders.

 

I also dont believe that he would be able to achieve brake bias with an inline valve directly behind a MC that didnt also feed the front.

 

I think the way the system works is that pressure is restricted to the rear allowing MORE to bias to the front.

 

In a dual MC system a "balance bar" is employed reducing the amount of pedal effort to the rear MC. Thus reducing pressure or increasing bias.

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