llloyd Posted March 26, 2007 Share Posted March 26, 2007 I just got my first trailer (been using the uhauls with the tire webbing before) and so I'm unclear on the right way to do this. The trailer I bought has 4 d-rings and I have 4 10,000lb straps and 4 axle straps. The guy at Carson said (and I've seen this mentioned online) to cross the straps. Did he mean red (rather than yellow) in the illustration below? Sorry if this is a lame question but i tried to RTFM but there isn't one and I'm not taking any chances with my gear. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
white_2kgt Posted March 27, 2007 Share Posted March 27, 2007 Cross means RED. You will ask 10 different people about how to secure a car and you will get 10 different answers. So here's what I do and why. I do the YELLOW and secure it to the unspring weight, aka something BELOW the springs, so front control arms, wheels, rear axles, this allows the body to move around a bit and absorb bumps, I do this b/c I don't want to compress the springs for hundreds of miles for several days nor do I want the straps moving when the trailer his bumps. I do not cross b/c in the event a strap DOES break/rub whatever you are still pulling in a relative straight line. If you cross and one straps breaks the other strap could more easily loosen b/c you are pulling the car to the other side. I should mention that the position of my d-rings allow me to put tension in a straight line not at a high degree of angle like you have illustrated in YELLOW. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IkeF Posted March 27, 2007 Share Posted March 27, 2007 I agree with the above info. There was a thread on corner-carvers.com that went through all of the ins and outs. Basically, use a good strap that's designed for what you're using it for, strap to unsprung mass, and don't cross them. Strapping through the wheels should help straighten the straps out some (run more parallel to the direction of the trailer/car). Also, make sure the car is out of gear and parking brake is off as you tighten the straps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bruce L. Posted March 28, 2007 Share Posted March 28, 2007 I also agree with the above, so 3 out of 10 agree! cheers, bruce Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
granracing Posted March 29, 2007 Share Posted March 29, 2007 Ah, why not. I do the Red method. I'll add another component - towing with the car on the trailer out of gear. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Karl Posted March 29, 2007 Share Posted March 29, 2007 another red to the frame. Thats the way honda ships them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ninetyfourintegra Posted March 29, 2007 Share Posted March 29, 2007 I use a hybrid - - I cross the front and go straight on the back using the LCAs on both. I also tow out of gear. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davidfarmer Posted March 31, 2007 Share Posted March 31, 2007 I actually go the the side frame-rails in my cars. The Vettes have holes in the frame (just in front of the rear, and behind the front tires) where T-hooks fit. I cross the rears, and put the fronts straight Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rrrracer Posted March 31, 2007 Share Posted March 31, 2007 Good topic. I try to avoid anything that could possibly change the alignment and/or put stress on driven members of the chassis. So for me, control arms, axles, and wheels are generally out... I prefer that the car have specific points of attachment for towing... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
white_2kgt Posted March 31, 2007 Share Posted March 31, 2007 Good topic. I try to avoid anything that could possibly change the alignment and/or put stress on driven members of the chassis. So for me, control arms, axles, and wheels are generally out... I prefer that the car have specific points of attachment for towing... If cinching down some tow straps to your wheels is going to throw your alignment off what's driving around the track doing to it?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Renntag Posted April 2, 2007 Share Posted April 2, 2007 Good topic. I try to avoid anything that could possibly change the alignment and/or put stress on driven members of the chassis. So for me, control arms, axles, and wheels are generally out... I prefer that the car have specific points of attachment for towing... If cinching down some tow straps to your wheels is going to throw your alignment off what's driving around the track doing to it?? If there is any angular stress on the wheels or other components, then it has the potential to cause a problem. I also prefer to leave the suspension uncompressed but refuse to attach to my LCAs to do so. I have crossed the straps attaching to the frame in the past and now prefer to use webbing over the wheels. I dont currently HAVE this set up but will be outfitting my trailer with e-channel in the floor to accommodate this securing method for the front and use axle straps in the rear. Great topic. We were just talking about this at the track on sunday. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrianZ Posted April 2, 2007 Share Posted April 2, 2007 I use the factory tie down point for my car. So I guess I'm a yellow guy. I prefer the have the car strapped down tight, no movement. Having a sprung mass (unsecured car), on top of a sprung mass (trailer) just does not seem right to me. BTW -look at a car carrier that carries the new cars. They will almost always strap to the chassis of the car and try to prevent the car from moving around. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gfaules Posted April 5, 2007 Share Posted April 5, 2007 I use the factory tie down point for my car. So I guess I'm a yellow guy. I prefer the have the car strapped down tight, no movement. Having a sprung mass (unsecured car), on top of a sprung mass (trailer) just does not seem right to me. BTW -look at a car carrier that carries the new cars. They will almost always strap to the chassis of the car and try to prevent the car from moving around. Good choice. If you ever look at F1 teams as they prepare to unload a car they are always tied down tight. It's a well known fact that for years when the majority of cars in the U.S. were built back east they were shipped out west via railway. Due to the up and down rhythm created by the railroad ties it was common for the shock absorbers to be worn out before they ever hit the showroom floor. Since then it is customary that cars are tied down in a way to prevent suspension from working. This may not make a difference if you change your shocks frequently however if you are on a long haul or on your way to a lengthy endurance race, why let anything wear any more than it has too. God only knows having good shocks in the last hours of the 25 hours of Thunderhill can make a huge amount of difference. The same is true for example if you prep a car and then tow it all the way back to the Ohio championships. Since you don't leave your engine running in the tow rig, why allow the suspension (primarily shocks) to continue working? Keep everything fresh and new. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Renntag Posted April 5, 2007 Share Posted April 5, 2007 Fwiw, I know that there are alot of new cars that are shipped tied to the chassis.....but these cars also have limiting blocks in the suspension to keep the suspension from being compressed much as well. When the vehicles reach the dealer and are prepped for sale, these limiting blocks are then removed. I hear arguments on both sides of this one. For years I have tied to the chassis and now prefer to let the suspension ride. The actual movement is minimal and can not be compared to track duty or even 25 hours of thunderhill. I dont think this subject can be concluded one way or the other. I see reasoning for both ways and I have used both methods. Who knows? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Evan_55 Posted April 5, 2007 Share Posted April 5, 2007 Ive done both methods and they both work well. FWIW, I like the red method better, but I have taken out the factory tow hooks, and now I do the yellow method PLUS a diagonal strap from the race tow hook at the front and back (for a total of 6 straps) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
llloyd Posted April 8, 2007 Author Share Posted April 8, 2007 so how do you do the tire one? just loop a ratchet strap around the tire and secure both ends to the same spot? i dont even know if mine could go that short... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Renntag Posted April 8, 2007 Share Posted April 8, 2007 so how do you do the tire one? just loop a ratchet strap around the tire and secure both ends to the same spot? i dont even know if mine could go that short... here ya go. This is what I am going to employ. As my car has less clearance for the ratchet, I am going to put a loop in front of the wheel to guide the strap fwd of the car and attach the ratchet to a D ring. Here is another strap type. The e-channel gives you more options. hope that helps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
llloyd Posted April 18, 2007 Author Share Posted April 18, 2007 i like the wheel nets. right now i have to get under the trailer the secure the front wheels. with the wheel nets would you just have them in the front or on all four corners? i know the uhaul i used to use had similiar nets just on the front. I was thinking get those on the front and still tie the sub frame on the back to be extra secure, or would those angles (straight down on the front tire vs 45 degrees or whatever or on the rear) contradict each other and cause problems? I'm probably over thinking this but between the truck, race car and trailer theres alot of money I don't want to take any chances with - at least off the track. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GAC Posted April 18, 2007 Share Posted April 18, 2007 Also, make sure the car is out of gear and parking brake is off as you tighten the straps. Do you guys put in BACK in gear and set the E-brake? One, the other, both? And why or why not? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
llloyd Posted April 18, 2007 Author Share Posted April 18, 2007 Do you guys put in BACK in gear and set the E-brake? One, the other, both? And why or why not? I put the ebrake on but leave it out of gear. Don't see how the ebrake could hurt, but I know I've read in a number of places to leave it out of gear. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IkeF Posted April 18, 2007 Share Posted April 18, 2007 I don't, simply because it's not really going to do anything. Perhaps if you have some kind of herculean parking brake...? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Renntag Posted April 18, 2007 Share Posted April 18, 2007 My car doesnt even have a parking brake so thats out of the question. I dont tie down in gear as I dont see the need to stress my transmission. If you are really concerned about the car coming loose, then install a couple extra straps front and rear. I just check the straps everytime I stop to stretch my legs or get fuel or something. Obviously if I am headed to my home track, summit point, its only 75 minutes so no need to stop and stretch, but I will make a fuel stop the day before and then check the car again the night before heading to the track. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
white_2kgt Posted April 18, 2007 Share Posted April 18, 2007 no e-brake, it's not going to stop the car from bouncing off/around the trailer, leave out of gear as well, that way all I have to do is unstrap it and push the button on the winch (no, not the wife). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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