Driver Posted April 2, 2007 Share Posted April 2, 2007 I'm not all that savvy with braking systems, so I'm here looking for recommendations and advice. The thread below made for great reading, but that's a calculus answer to my 9th grade algebra question. I was driving the still-legal beast today, when my pedal became rock hard, and didn't seem all that interested in stopping my car. TKO + 4:30 rear gear means I can downshift almost to a stop, crisis averted. But now I have a repair that needs done. I'm guessing I've got s screwed brake booster, nothing outside of the master cylinder/booster units seems amiss. With this car, I'm in the habit of upgrading and not replacing. Whats a good option for a 3000+lb lapping car? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nape Posted April 2, 2007 Share Posted April 2, 2007 Line to the booster came off/became holey or the diaphragm in the booster went bad. That's my guess. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Driver Posted April 2, 2007 Author Share Posted April 2, 2007 Troubleshooting has found that the computer is no longer telling my accumulator pump to run....cuz it's gone. I'm wondering if I can just wire the pump to run without commands from the computer. I have more reading to do. http://www.albeedigital.com/supercoupe/articles/abs-system.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank Corkran Posted April 6, 2007 Share Posted April 6, 2007 I was driving the still-legal beast today, when my pedal became rock hard, and didn't seem all that interested in stopping my car. If the brakes were hot, are you sure you weren't just experiencing pad fade due to overheating, or even "green" fade? I can't speak for every ABS system made, but plenty of cars brake just fine after you pull the ABS fuse (highly recommended in some earlier GM cars). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Driver Posted April 6, 2007 Author Share Posted April 6, 2007 Ohhh I've overheated the brakes, many time, this wasn't that. I've gotten to the bottom of it. The car has no booster. It's got a fancy electronic supplement. The ABS computer runs the accumulator pump, which puts the power in my power breaks. Without the computer telling the pump to run...it doesn't. I get help from what pressure was left in the system until it runs out, about 5 or 6 pumps. So, the computer is going back in, under the dash this time. In moving it from the rear to the front, I'm losing a collective 100+ ft of wire, about 5 lb. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank Corkran Posted April 6, 2007 Share Posted April 6, 2007 OK, I think I remember one of the early Teves systems was like that. As an electrical engineer, I prefer as little electronics on my track cars as possible. But no, I don't run a points distributor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Driver Posted April 6, 2007 Author Share Posted April 6, 2007 OK, I think I remember one of the early Teves systems was like that. ATEVES Mark II to be exact. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Driver Posted April 6, 2007 Author Share Posted April 6, 2007 wired the computer back in...no work. Time to get rid of this. What are my options for a racing master cylinder/booster combo? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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