jon dawes Posted April 17, 2007 Posted April 17, 2007 I apologize if this is in the wrong spot. my first event is May 5 at cumberland, md. among other things, i'm wondering if i need to have a specific torque spec for my lugs. sounds dumb, but i use my ratchet wrench to get them on/off because the holes are too narrow for a normal lug wrench and haven't purchased an adaptor yet. suggestions? recommendations? requirements? criticisms? evolutionary theories? thanks! Quote
wallyman424 Posted April 17, 2007 Posted April 17, 2007 100 ft/lbs, torque them when the wheels/brakes are cold. do not hot torque. that is all. Quote
jon dawes Posted April 17, 2007 Author Posted April 17, 2007 so what you're saying is i need to go ahead and spring for that torque wrench i've been avoiding Quote
jon dawes Posted April 17, 2007 Author Posted April 17, 2007 always love an excuse to buy more tools!!!! while we're on the subject, does it matter which kind i get? i figure if i spend $100 [craftsman or husky brand] i'll get one worth buying, but no more use than i'll get out of it i may just look for the cheapest one. what's the consensus??? Quote
wallyman424 Posted April 17, 2007 Posted April 17, 2007 a lot of people will give you a lot of different responses. me, I got the cheapest click-type one i could find. I think it was like 30 something dollars at advance auto parts. Made by AmPro. Its worked fine for quite a while now. Quote
ghettoracer Posted April 17, 2007 Posted April 17, 2007 torque wrench is your friend. even a $20 unit from harbor freight is perfectly fine for torqueing lugnuts. most japanese cars are only about 80 ft-lbs. just following your manual and maybe go 5 lbs higher... Quote
white_2kgt Posted April 17, 2007 Posted April 17, 2007 cheap click torque wrench for wheels/suspension bits expensive torque wrench for engines, and don't use it on anything else. Quote
Renntag Posted April 17, 2007 Posted April 17, 2007 cheap click torque wrench for wheels/suspension bitsexpensive torque wrench for engines, and don't use it on anything else. yes, this advice. So assuming you wont be cracking open your 3valve motor any time soon, the cheapo clicker should get the job done. To make life easier, get one with a longer handle. Quote
racercosmo Posted April 17, 2007 Posted April 17, 2007 If you call your local tire shop, they have a chart with wheel torque for just about every car ever made. A Carrera Gt is 465lb ft for the single nut by the way. It's usually a range, so go to the higher end and add 5. Quote
jon dawes Posted April 17, 2007 Author Posted April 17, 2007 thanks, discountire had the chart online. it's 100 lb.ft for my mustang. so why don't i just get a wrench and only put half of my bodyweight on it Quote
Lucid Moments Posted April 17, 2007 Posted April 17, 2007 thanks, discountire had the chart online. it's 100 lb.ft for my mustang. so why don't i just get a wrench and only put half of my bodyweight on it Get a six inch wrench and put all your body weight on it Quote
DriverGT5 Posted April 17, 2007 Posted April 17, 2007 100 ft/lbs, torque them when the wheels/brakes are cold. do not hot torque. that is all. You'd better not torque my lugs to 100 ft/lbs. I keep mine at 85 and have never had a problem. Check your owners manual. 5 ft/lbs won't hurt if you want a little more POM. Quote
jon dawes Posted April 17, 2007 Author Posted April 17, 2007 i'm simply repeating from what another mustang owner said and what i read on the chart discount tire uses. i honestly don't care how tight they are as long as they are really on there and the tech folks are happy!!! from my ABSOLUTELY naive opinion, not all lugs are to be torqued to the same specs, but most are relatively close to 100, unless you have a carerra gt [sp?]. btw: are you the $2006 GRM winner? if so, nice ride; if not, nevermind. Quote
wallyman424 Posted April 18, 2007 Posted April 18, 2007 You'd better not torque my lugs to 100 ft/lbs. I keep mine at 85 and have never had a problem. Check your owners manual. 5 ft/lbs won't hurt if you want a little more POM. 95 is where my torque wrench is set. i've got ARP studs, so i'm not too worried about them. you gonna be at the cmp event in a few weeks? Quote
DriverGT5 Posted April 18, 2007 Posted April 18, 2007 You'd better not torque my lugs to 100 ft/lbs. I keep mine at 85 and have never had a problem. Check your owners manual. 5 ft/lbs won't hurt if you want a little more POM. 95 is where my torque wrench is set. i've got ARP studs, so i'm not too worried about them. you gonna be at the cmp event in a few weeks? Unfortunatly I have this pesky graduation thing to worry about. I've decided to hold off on racing until Roebling and get all my projects finished. I'll see everyone at RRR in May! Quote
CRex Posted April 18, 2007 Posted April 18, 2007 Get a tube of high temp anti sieze while your it...... Quote
white_2kgt Posted April 18, 2007 Posted April 18, 2007 i'm simply repeating from what another mustang owner said and what i read on the chart discount tire uses. i honestly don't care how tight they are as long as they are really on there and the tech folks are happy!!! from my ABSOLUTELY naive opinion, not all lugs are to be torqued to the same specs, but most are relatively close to 100, unless you have a carerra gt [sp?]. 85, 100 whatever, the biggest thing is that all the lug nuts on each wheel are the same, that way you have equal force holding the wheel on at each point. I too have ARP studs so I usually go to 95ish. Quote
Renntag Posted April 18, 2007 Posted April 18, 2007 ... I too have ARP studs so I usually go to 95ish. Heavy on the ish. Quote
RSCoupe Posted April 20, 2007 Posted April 20, 2007 Get a tube of high temp anti sieze while your it...... If you use anti seize, you need to drop the torque value, about 15%, IIRC. Quote
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