Tim Comeau Posted May 10, 2004 Share Posted May 10, 2004 What are your ideas guys? A new radiator is #1. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom #16 Posted May 10, 2004 Share Posted May 10, 2004 The external air to oil cooler would help also. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Bloomberg Posted May 11, 2004 Share Posted May 11, 2004 Use a turbo s external oil cooler or the kit that Jason at Paragon sells. It helps to keep oil temps down. As Joe suggested cut the front spoiler for more air intake, fresh rad, belt, pumps, water wetter and wire one of the fans directly to the battery with switch. I had left one on the thermal switch and the other with a switch/fuse directly with the battery which when turned on... would bring the temps down about a a eighth/quarter. I would flip it on as needed. Hope this helps.... Paul Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
944-Spec#94 Posted May 11, 2004 Share Posted May 11, 2004 Low temp thermostat helps too as it opens at like 70C instead of 80C. Undertray. There is stock on these cars an undertray that runs from the lower radiator support to the engine crossmember. These help high speed aero dynamics and help the radator function by keeping high pressure air from under the car out of the space behind the radidator. This increasing airflow. These are cheap to do. I had a t-stat fail on me even on a relativly new set-up. It did fail 100%, but keep temps up a little. When I replace it with a new one temps when down. These cars CAN Run and race in 100-105F Temps. Make sure also that there are ZERO coolant leaks. They will cause cooling problems if there are leaks. Don't run without thermostats. Sure none is better than a stuck one, but the engines actually run cooler with a proper working thermostat. The thermostat restricts flow to the point where it allows it achieve maximum cooling from the radiator. No t-stat can allow the flow to be too fast thus it has not fully cooled before going back in to the engine block. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Comeau Posted May 12, 2004 Author Share Posted May 12, 2004 Good ideas, guys. Thanks. Believe it or not I had a major paragraph going, but the phone kept ringing and my session was timed out, so I lost it all. "invalid-session." I hate it when that happens. .......................................................................................................... #1 is a new radiator. 2. The belly pan, as Joe spoke of. 3. Our oil is cooled with our water, so the 2 are directly linked. Cool the oil better and the water will stay cooler. I'd like to get a big 'ol oil cooler and mount it in a high, safe location. 4. Our cars run faster when the ambient temp is lower, right? So, I wouldn't let my engine intake ANY hot air from the engine compartment. The stock snorkel takes cooler, high pressure air from the wheel well. Make sure the rubber fender seal is good and is on correctly. A cooler intake charge means more power! 5. the A/C condensor shouldn't be blocking airflow to the radiator. 6. I've removed the heater core and metal pipe going back to it. This pipe ran right over the hot headers. I'll replace it with an insulated hose to get the water capacity back up to stock quantity. The heater core can be used to drop engine temp very dramatically but needs to be kept in its stock location. I'd duct the hot air outside the cockpit though! I've been told to make sure the hose stays below the 12mm air bleed screw on the top of the engine. (?) 7. Joe talked about the thermostat already. I believe Porsche has a good idea about how hot they want the engine to run for best performance. 8. Some guys believe that Synthetic oil finds existing leaks better. I'm not sure about that. The beauty of syn oil is that it maintains its viscosity better in high temp situations. Natural-based oils break down in higher temps and get thinner. Thinner means lower oil pressures and a decreasing ability to cling to the parts. The syn oils that people are using are Mobil 1, Amsoil, Redline, and now Liqui-Moly. 9. Direct wiring the fans? Again, I just let Porsche maintain the correct engine temp. It's also one more thing to forget in the heat of battle. What do you think about that one, Joe? 10. I've stopped revving my engine over 6,000 rpm. There's no power above that with a stock cam (see dyno charts) and I'm just making more heat and killing my bearings sooner. Whaddaya guys think? Other ideas? I'm here to learn too. Let's keep the cars cooler and keep them on the track! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
924RACR Posted May 12, 2004 Share Posted May 12, 2004 Only thing I disagree with is direct-wiring the fans; not needed once the car's moving above 30mph, they can only impede flow. Rather, I use the stock radiator switch, and supplement it with a dash manual switch I can throw if I even think the stock temp switch might have failed. Everything else is excellent advice, IMO. Though I have to admit, I've had limited success running my 924 (2.0L) with the belly pan... it seems to actually get temps up higher underhood, not to mention making it a real PITA to work on between sessions. I did try running with it, but went back to running bottomless. YMMV, especially with the 2.5L. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
944-Spec#94 Posted May 12, 2004 Share Posted May 12, 2004 I actually like the direct wired fans. No need to worry about fans not running. Flip the switch and they run. Simpler system. I typically run both fans during most races. During the cooler winter months I'd turn off one fan to keep temps UP to operting levels and in the very cool sessions run with th fans off. In the summer I have not been able to run without the fans. There have been times I could run with one fan, but that was with 70& 80's air temps and I had on fan crapping out. Ran a bit warmer, but ok. I use lighted switches and can pretty quickly check to make sure they are on. I do not run with a heater core at all. My core is in the car, but not hooked-up to anything. I figure it as a few fewer places I could have a coolant leak. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Comeau Posted May 12, 2004 Author Share Posted May 12, 2004 If I had it to do over, I'd keep the heater core in its stock location, but duct the air out of the car. It's like having a second radiator! When I turned on the heater and cranked the fan up full at Willow last year, the temp dropped super fast! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
944-spec#09 Posted May 20, 2004 Share Posted May 20, 2004 I agree with Joe that you should have a manual switch override on the fans. You can either leave the wiring attached to the temp switch on the radiator so your switch acts as an override or disconnect it from the temp switch and rewire just to the cockpit switch like Joe did. While you might be able to get by on cool days without fans, on a 90+ day I had a temp switch fail on my first engine, overheated and blew the head gasket. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Comeau Posted May 20, 2004 Author Share Posted May 20, 2004 I heard something like-- one of the fans only comes on with the A/C? It seems like only one of my fans works most of the time, passenger side. Is that accurate? If that's true, I would want to install a cockpit switch for the other. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeanutinCA Posted May 20, 2004 Share Posted May 20, 2004 I thought both my fans run when the car is hot? But I do have a later model? P.Dilly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Comeau Posted May 20, 2004 Author Share Posted May 20, 2004 I'm also considering wrapping the headers to keep more heat from radiating from there. I've already insulated my tunnel to avoid the "hot foot" syndrome! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spec-944#70 Posted May 20, 2004 Share Posted May 20, 2004 If you can wrap your headers then why can't you paint the intake? Wouldn't reducing the heat from the headers cool the air around the engine thus cooling the air temp around the intake? I'm sort of kidding but it all starts to add up. Running next to you at CSW going side by side at the same speed accross the finish line and watching you walk away (not exit speed that time as you said you had to lift so we could go side by side for the crowd) tells me there is some work I need to do to maximize everything I can and I just spent several hundred making sure everything was up to snuff. So headers/chip don't make any difference? Shaving the head? 1-2 HP here. 1-2 HP there. It all adds up. I can't wait to see what happens when PDilly gets his car running right. If he can hang with you on the straights then I'll have some work to do to just to be competitive. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeanutinCA Posted May 20, 2004 Share Posted May 20, 2004 I guess because "technically" headers are free? Timmy, are you trying to trick the rules? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Comeau Posted May 20, 2004 Author Share Posted May 20, 2004 Not "technically" at all, yous guys. As the rules are right now, everything from the head back is free. You can do anything you want to the exhaust. (Intake is a different story.) So I can switch headers, delete cat, delete muffler, shorten exhaust and send it out the side of the car, etc. So certainly, wrapping the headers is allowed. Eric, my car does have an aftermarket chip. Either Weltmeister or hypertech? The previous owner couldn't recall. But it has been flashed by Norik and Dwain. Dwain's dyno showed me at 1 more peak hp and a couple additional pounds feet of torque throughout the powerband, compared to my first dyno run, which is posted on Joe's website. I should dyno the car again at the same dyno................. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeanutinCA Posted May 20, 2004 Share Posted May 20, 2004 I should dyno the car again at the same dyno................. You and Eric should both dyno down there at the same time? P.Dilly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Comeau Posted July 16, 2004 Author Share Posted July 16, 2004 Hey guys, I dug up this thread because I had a related experience at the 3 hour enduro the other night. After the pit stop for fuel and an oil check, I went back out on course and drove for several laps. I noticed the temp was running higher. It was closer to 3/4's or danger zone, than where it was earlier, in the middle range. Crap! Forgot the fans! I reached over and flipped the 2 fan switches on and the temp came down to normal. **So it does make a difference to have the fans running while driving over 30 mph.** This was in the desert at night. My bad.......... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeanutinCA Posted July 16, 2004 Share Posted July 16, 2004 Put it back to stock. Or one day I will be beating you and in your intensity to keep up, you will forget the fans, blow up and then THAT will be your excuse for being beaten. Rather than the fact I just KICKED YOUR A$$!!! Yeeehhaaaa Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sedonatom Posted July 16, 2004 Share Posted July 16, 2004 Removing the radiator, and tapping it, face down on the floor, will dislodge an amazing amount of dirt that couldn't be washed or blown out. In my case, one full margarine container. Regarding intake air temp. My stock air intake was replaced with a cone filter, located near the fender intake opening. It is assumed that this system sucks hot air from under the hood., but I mounted a temperature sensor there, and found that when moving, the intake air temp is exactly the same as the ambiant outside air temp. I've placed the probe all over that inward air stream, and the readings are the same. Of course when slowing down or stopped in the pit, the temp immediatly SOARS off the scale. The other sensor is in the cockpit, and this one consistantly reads 10 to 15 degrees hotter than the outside air temp. I's still like to have an oil cooler. Does someone offer a complete kit for this addition? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
944-Spec#94 Posted July 16, 2004 Share Posted July 16, 2004 Tom, No real "Kits" offered for oil coolers, but you can get 944 Turbo parts do put in a cooler. You can get turbo oil filter housing and it is direct swap for the NA oil filther housing oil cooler housing. Then you can use the turbo lines to run to either a turbo cooler or aftermarket cooler. There also sandwhich plates that go in between the oil filter and the housing of which you can attach lines. Over the past 6 mo I was able ot aquire a 944 Turbo cooler assembly pretty cheaply over rennlist. I got the parts from a couple source pretty cheaply and plan to put it in my when I have engine out. Should have it running by mid september. I have also heard you can get RX7 oil cooler from junk yards for something like $5. Still need to fab the lines however. There are options. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Comeau Posted July 19, 2004 Author Share Posted July 19, 2004 Good stuff guys. Tom, thanks for the emperical data. I believed, and it makes sense, that air taken from the engine compartment must be much hotter than from the fender wall. ????????? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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