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Can someone walk me through....


924sman

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installation of a cutoff switch. I can't find instructions to save my life! What cable/wire and color goes where? 87 924S TIA! Dal

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Well guess what? I had to install one myself this weekend! Seems the kind I had was half assed, as in, did not cut the alternator when pulled so the car would still run. Not much help!

 

Do you have the cut off switch with FOUR connectors? Because you MUST run the alternator wire seperate to the battery / cars positive wires.

 

OK, if you have the 4 connection switch, pick 1 of the bigger studs and think of that as numbers 1, go around in one direction (any) and count each connection as 2, 3 and 4. So 1 and 3 are a pair and sit opposite and 2 and 4 are a pair and sit opposite. Number 1 and 3 should be bigger studs, 2 and 4 should be the smaller. The main cables will connect to the big and the alt to the smaller..

 

For the easy part, the ground stays attached to the negative terminal of the battery. Easy.

 

On my car and hopefully yours, isolate the Red wire with a Green stripe. It should be off to the side of the positive cable connection. Remove this off to the side.

 

The positive cable, goes to stud 1 of the switch. Then you need a new section of cable (available at auto stores) to go from stud 3 to the positive of the battery. That completes the power flow from battery to car when the switch is on (so to speak). If you turn the switch off, you will not be able to start the car, no power to the ignition.

 

Now, back to the alt wire, this needs to be connected to the smaller stud of either 2 or 4, apparently it's not important as it's just a "dump" type feature built into the switch. But let's go with stud number 2.

 

Here's the part that's different to the diagram that was in my switch. I was given this tip, trick, alternative procedure by Vision's electrical dude. The other smaller stud, number 4 (opposite to the alt wire you just connected), this was looped back to the main cluster of positive wires (stud 1).

 

So in summary, main positive wires to stud 1, alt wire to stud 2, stud 3 was connected to the positive terminal of the battery and stud 4 was looped (with a piece of wire and connectors) to stud 1. I just tested this again with a volt meter. Battery was at about 12.8 volts, started the car and it dropped to about 12.2 volts or so (alternator doesn't kick in until over 2,000 + RPM). when I kicked the revs up over that, the reading registered 14.? volts meaning a charge was occurring. I just ran Sat/Sun with this successfully and the car cuts out when above 2,500 RPM and the switch is pulled.

 

Please, make sure this seems logical to you and even seek out a second opinion. Mine works but I would hate you to fry your car. Anyone else care to chime in go ahead. But this is what I did and my car is good to go. But please be careful doing it and unfortunately, do it at your own risk. I did mine at my own risk.

 

Good Luck.

 

Cheers,

Dylan.

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