NorrFam Posted September 7, 2007 Share Posted September 7, 2007 Anyone have a lead on who might actually have some rear braided brake lines for 00 Mustang GT?? Have been to many web sites, made numerous phone calls, all the local autoparts, even tried salvage. Even called Russell (Edelbrock) directly. No one I can find has them, can order them or in Russells case knows when they will make any. Got fronts. Need pair for the back. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cmchopeful Posted September 7, 2007 Share Posted September 7, 2007 Try this link. http://www.buybrakes.com/russell/apps-Ford.htm Mitch OH/IN Region HPDE 3 2000 Z28 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimgood Posted September 7, 2007 Share Posted September 7, 2007 (edited) Have you tried Earl's http://www.holley.com/division/Earls.asp Edit: I just noticed in the catalog for their kits that they list everything but the 96 - 04 Mustangs. It might be worth it to give them a call to find out why and if you can piece together your own from their components. Edited September 7, 2007 by Guest Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andy38 Posted September 7, 2007 Share Posted September 7, 2007 http://www.livermoreperformance.com - they would definitely know if you can't find them anywhere else. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jon dawes Posted September 7, 2007 Share Posted September 7, 2007 http://www.buybrakes.com/store/ED693210 although this is for both front and back [i'm assuming it is, since it includes 4 lines], so it's not exactly what you want. . . ALSO, in my search i found some references that said that the lines will fit the front OR the back. . . is there a chance that with 4 wheel discs that the lines are the same??? what can i say, i can get away with questions since i'm still a noob! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cmchopeful Posted September 7, 2007 Share Posted September 7, 2007 I purchased my lines from them, though they were StopTech lines. The StopTech lines were separated front to back. I like the StopTech lines in that they are covered with a vinyl coating to keep out dirt. Mitch Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Renntag Posted September 8, 2007 Share Posted September 8, 2007 Maximum Motorsports? I have heard horror stories of many of these other lines going into failure. And these lines were from reputable brake suppliers. Use caution. 2 of the race cars in our series have had break line failure and they are all using the maximum stuff now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank Corkran Posted September 8, 2007 Share Posted September 8, 2007 Maximum doesn't make the lines. I believe my spare MM front line kit is a Stop-Tech part, if I remember correctly. If one of the cars you're referring to is the SuperTrooper, those lines were made by "some guy" in New England who supplies one of the big online brake discount places. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Renntag Posted September 8, 2007 Share Posted September 8, 2007 Frank, yeah that is one of the cars. but it proves my point that you have to be careful. I thought there were rear lines available. FWIW Paul, I am using factory ford rubber lines on the axle to the calipers and a Maximum Motorsports braided line from the chassis to the axle. Also, all of the Ford related advice Frank has shared has been good. I would follow his lead. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NorrFam Posted September 8, 2007 Author Share Posted September 8, 2007 For those who responded this is what I got today. Goodridge has not and will not make them, as meeting the shape requirement makes it not cost effective. (More on that). Russell is out of production and no known date to make anymore, largely for same reason. The factory pieces are rubber/steel mix. Jon, Banjo bolts on front will work on rear but not sure about fitting on the other end or if they are long enough. Heres the rub. The metal tubing from the banjo to the rubber hose is designed to go around the shock etc and in effect, hold the line up, over and out of the way then rubber goes the rest of the way to the line at the chassis. A braided only line will not be out of the way of the suspension etc. Thats why they wont make them. Some even show them as a four hose kit. But I cant even find one of those to buy at any price though $254 is shown in some places. Seeing these new addresses tonite I will check them Monday. I thought I would try the following: Raybestos rubber hoses new for $20 each. They have to be better than the 7+ yrs old ones on it now that have not given any known trouble but are well old. I figure I could replace em new every other year for 12 years before Id spend $250. Guess what, Parts America cant get the Raybestos rubber ones either and canceled my order. Im sort of ready to laugh at the whole f****** thing. House brands might be available from Advance or Auto Zone after I try Livermore and the other link that came tonite. OH Maximum Motorsports aint got em either. It has to do with the design of the 99-04 years. For them whats answered, thankee. For them what comes up with another idea, let me hear it. If someone knows that the fronts will work on the back let me know how ya know. Brakes are not much for doing a lot of experimenting. Paul Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Renntag Posted September 9, 2007 Share Posted September 9, 2007 ... Brakes are not much for doing a lot of experimenting. Oh au contraire my friend. Experimenting with brakes is very important. I have been playing around with different brake setups this season. Sound good? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NorrFam Posted September 9, 2007 Author Share Posted September 9, 2007 I jsut do not want to do any experiementing with equipment that isnt intended to be where I put it. Different makes, different capacities, different pads etc. yep see what works best. I guess I mean ill advised or unknowledgable experitmenting. I thought maybe some of the SN95 drivers would say where they got theirs. Hey Frank, Would a Cobra line work? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank Corkran Posted September 9, 2007 Share Posted September 9, 2007 My Cobra still has rubber factory lines - I haven't seen braided replacements either. And I figured it was due to the tight routing of the steel tube part around all the suspension bits, as you stated. Probably the best way to go would be to have AN adapters TIG welded to the factory steel lines that attach to the banjo, add IF-AN adapters with custom brackets at the body, then use standard -3 hose assemblies (about $15 ea.) with straight AN fittings - or make your own. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NorrFam Posted September 9, 2007 Author Share Posted September 9, 2007 Man, I sure wish I knew what you just said. In my rummaging around I found some 17"braided lines in my assorted stuff that a SOCal AI guy sent me. They dont have the metal tube. Do have the round end for the banjo bolt. Thinking 17" is too short but for drill will hold them up for comaprison next time I jack the car up. Frank, what do think of the idea of just keeping the rubber lines but keep em fresh every year or so? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank Corkran Posted September 10, 2007 Share Posted September 10, 2007 Man, I sure wish I knew what you just said. What I wrote was how to convert your stock lines to accept -3AN braided Teflon lines in place of the rubber portion. Let me know if you want detailed instructions. Welding is required. In my rummaging around I found some 17"braided lines in my assorted stuff that a SOCal AI guy sent me. They dont have the metal tube. Do have the round end for the banjo bolt. Thinking 17" is too short but for drill will hold them up for comaprison next time I jack the car up. I wouldn't try to use them if they just have a banjo fitting on the end of the hose. Some sharp bends are required to route from the caliper around the shock - at least following the factory routing - too sharp for the hose. The Teflon inner liner will kink and lead to catastrophic hose failure. Frank, what do think of the idea of just keeping the rubber lines but keep em fresh every year or so? Like I said, I still have the rubber lines on the back of the Cobra. OEM lines are pretty damn rugged. Just keep an eye out for any cracking in the outer rubber jacket and garbage (bits of the inner hose liner) in the brake fluid during your pre/post track event bleeds. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jon dawes Posted September 10, 2007 Share Posted September 10, 2007 what about a remote-controlled, pressurized "pod" that is self-contained and works from a signal sent from the brake pedal? it will attach to the caliper [or somewhere close] & will have its own fluid and its own 'cooling' mechanism to keep the fluid at acceptable temperatures, that way you don't have to worry about any lines whatsoever. . . but you may have to get NASA to rewrite the CCR/CMC/AI rules first. just a suggestion Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimgood Posted September 10, 2007 Share Posted September 10, 2007 what about a remote-controlled, pressurized "pod" that is self-contained and works from a signal sent from the brake pedal? it will attach to the caliper [or somewhere close] & will have its own fluid and its own 'cooling' mechanism to keep the fluid at acceptable temperatures, that way you don't have to worry about any lines whatsoever. . . but you may have to get NASA to rewrite the CCR/CMC/AI rules first. just a suggestion The perfectionist in me wants to stomp all over that idea but I shall restrain myself in deference your sarcasm. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jon dawes Posted September 10, 2007 Share Posted September 10, 2007 thanks Jim! just trying to be part of the gang in my somewhat immature, sarcastic fashion! although someday i bet my crazy idea won't sound so crazy any more. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank Corkran Posted September 10, 2007 Share Posted September 10, 2007 Jon, please quote the rule you believe makes your suggestion illegal for AI or CMC... then provide a link to such a device. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Renntag Posted September 10, 2007 Share Posted September 10, 2007 Jon, please quote the rule you believe makes your suggestion illegal for AI or CMC... then provide a link to such a device. Great suggestion Frank. Jon, Have you read the CCR in entirety yet? Then the AI and CMC rules? I would suggest you do so if for no other reason then to limit our pain. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jon dawes Posted September 10, 2007 Share Posted September 10, 2007 i don't think you guys can afford my hourly rates . quoting any kind of regulation/rule/statute at someone else's request is considered 'work', but since i mentioned the rules first i'll look it up for free. . . this time. CCR 11.4.5 Brakes The brakes should be in good working condition and must be able to stop the vehicle in a reasonable distance in a safe and controlled manner. The pedal pressure should be adequate. The fluid level must be above the minimum limit as specified by the manufacturer. The brake lines must be in good condition. No real roadblocks with the CCR. CAMARO MUSTANG CHALLENGE 8.35. Brakes 8.35.1. Brake pads, linings, and fluid are unrestricted. 8.35.2. Rubber brake lines/hoses may be replaced with suitable metal braided lines. Brake lines/hoses may be relocated and may be given additional protection. All brake lines/hoses must be securely fastened and safely routed. Brake fittings, adapters, and connectors are unrestricted. 8.35.3. The brake master cylinder and brake booster must be OEM stock and unmodified. Any year SVO Mustang master cylinders/boosters are allowed for Early Ford vehicles. 8.35.4. A brake-proportioning valve may be used provided that it is an inline, pressure-limiting type. 8.35.5. Backing plates may be removed or modified. Air ducts may be fitted to the brakes, provided that they extend in a forward direction only and that no changes are made in the body/structure for their use. Liquid brake cooling is prohibited. 8.35.6. Parking brakes, mechanisms, and actuating components may be removed. 8.35.7. Rear caliper mounting brackets may be substituted. 8.35.8. Antilock braking systems (ABS) are prohibited. OEM stock ABS systems must be removed or disabled 8.35.9 Braking systems shall conform to the following specifications: 1. The one piece front or rear hub with rotor may be replaced with a separate hub and rotor or separate hub, rotor hat and rotor. 2. Rotors shall be of a ferrous material only and may be vented. No cross drilling or slotting is allowed. 3. The maximum front and rear rotor size shall not exceed the following dimensions: . . . 4. Front calipers may be updated/backdated within cars of the same manufacturer on the eligible manufacturers/models list with the following exceptions listed below: . . . 5. The rear calipers may be updated/backdated within cars of the same manufacturer on the eligible manufacturers/models list . . . . Unless one could do my crazy idea without modifying the master cylinder I don't think it would work. And 8.35.9's 'shall' is most likely interpreted as eliminating any options other than what's listed. If one could overcome those perceived hurdles, maybe my crazy idea could be an option. AMERICAN IRON: 7.8 Brakes 7.8.1 Water cooling or other liquid cooling of brakes is not allowed. Air cooling is both allowed and recommended. 7.8.2 Brake rotor friction surfaces must be iron with a maximum diameter of 14 inches. 7.8.3 Anti-lock brake systems are prohibited except for an unmodified OEM system, which includes ABS valve body and electronics as delivered from the factory. Updating and backdating of factory ABS systems into newer and older cars is allowed. Calipers are unrestricted. It appears I may have spoken too soon re: AI rules. Unlike the CMC rules, there is no definitive statement of 'shall' making one thing or another mandatory or prohibited in reference to my crazy idea. . . "it's easier to ask forgiveness than permission" may apply in this case. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jon dawes Posted September 10, 2007 Share Posted September 10, 2007 Jon, please quote the rule you believe makes your suggestion illegal for AI or CMC... then provide a link to such a device. Great suggestion Frank. Jon, Have you read the CCR in entirety yet? Then the AI and CMC rules? I would suggest you do so if for no other reason then to limit our pain. yes. several times. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimgood Posted September 10, 2007 Share Posted September 10, 2007 But, Jon, you're missing a very critical detail. There's nothing in the CMC rules that I saw that says the original/specified brake equipment has to be used to stop the vehicle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jon dawes Posted September 10, 2007 Share Posted September 10, 2007 true, but sometimes what ISN'T said is implied, but i hear what you're saying. i still think that the OEM booster/cylinder is a hurdle and the 'braking systems shall' is a hurdle, but i guess you could just not use them and they'd still be stock and unmodified. . . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimgood Posted September 10, 2007 Share Posted September 10, 2007 Exactly. But I'm sure Grumpy might look twice at the non-working, OEM calipers bolted somewhere under the car to get them out of the way. Edit: make that zip tied instead of bolted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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