wrecked Posted May 14, 2009 Share Posted May 14, 2009 How many of you guys are running a baffled oil pan? I'm worried my engine will be starved of oil around a long turn. You think its worth it to invest in a pan like this? https://aj-racing.com/shop/product.php?productid=1833&cat=0&page=1&js=n Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soundguydave Posted May 14, 2009 Share Posted May 14, 2009 How many of you guys are running a baffled oil pan? I'm worried my engine will be starved of oil around a long turn. You think its worth it to invest in a pan like this? https://aj-racing.com/shop/product.php?productid=1833&cat=0&page=1&js=n" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; I know plenty of FAST Civic drivers that are running the stock oil pan with no issues. Generally, the quick fix for starvation issues is to overfill the oil by a half-quart before hitting the track, and then draining off the extra oil after the event. I know that looking through the threads on this forum, you're seeing all kinds of heavily modified cars, but the best advice that I can give you is to do NOTHING to the car, excepting brakes, until you have a few events under your belt, and can honestly say that "I'm being held back by my car" in some form. Trust me when I say that as a track novice, you will not be able to use more than 40% of what the car is capable of doing in stock trim. Until you get that to the point where you're just flat running out of car, I wouldn't change a thing. The car, as delivered from the factory, is plenty capable, and most importantly is safe and predictable. As soon as you start "upgrading" the car, you'll have a hard time telling if it's your driving or the car setup holding you back, and that's not a good place to be. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lucid Moments Posted May 14, 2009 Share Posted May 14, 2009 I agree with what is posted above completely. You do not need a baffled oil pan at this point, and maybe never just depends. That said. If you do decide to get a baffled oil pan that Spoon one you listed seems to be a little overpriced (like most Spoon stuff). Do some investigation and you can find other solutions that are just as good and much less expensive. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jsbumed Posted May 14, 2009 Share Posted May 14, 2009 I find myself agreeing with Dave as well. From personal experience, I can also tell you that for now there is no need to change the oil pan. I've been running the stock oilpan on my Civic and have never had a problem. I will agree with overfilling the oil a little though. With sustained high rpm's your engine will burn through some oil. Nothing wrong with the engine, but it is good to be aware of so you can keep your eye on it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
obzezzed350 Posted May 14, 2009 Share Posted May 14, 2009 Honestly it cant hurt. If you can spend the money, Id do it. I blew my motor to what I believe was oil starvation, I didnt think twice about adding one this time around. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
getfast Posted May 14, 2009 Share Posted May 14, 2009 Unless there is some known problem with oil starvation in those engines I wouldn't worry about it. I would say 99% of the HPDE cars at any given event run stock oil pans with or without a little overfill. Also I definitely don't think it is a necessary part before your first event. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
98specR Posted May 14, 2009 Share Posted May 14, 2009 K-series motors have a tendency to have oil run up the timing chain side in long sweeping left turns in RACE cars. Like everyone has stated earlier, you wont need one. An extra quart of oil will go a long way. I've run a K-series motor for five years at various tracks on street tires without a baffled oil pan and haven't noticed any adverse oil pressure drops. If you absolutely have to have a baffled oil pan Hytech Exhaust makes a "install it your self" kit for about half the price of all these JDM bling pans. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wrecked Posted May 14, 2009 Author Share Posted May 14, 2009 yea Ive been thinking about getting an oil pressure gauge to see if my pressure is dropping too much on hard left turns and if it is then i guess i will go with a pan. Ive researched the hytec baffles, but id rather not drill multiple holes into my oil pan... for obvious reasons btw i ordered some Motul RBF 600 brake fluid today think its a good idea to switch out the clutch fluid too? Ive also been thinking about getting steel braided brake lines while im at it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lucid Moments Posted May 14, 2009 Share Posted May 14, 2009 yea Ive been thinking about getting an oil pressure gauge to see if my pressure is dropping too much on hard left turns and if it is then i guess i will go with a pan. Ive researched the hytec baffles, but id rather not drill multiple holes into my oil pan... for obvious reasons btw i ordered some Motul RBF 600 brake fluid today think its a good idea to switch out the clutch fluid too? Ive also been thinking about getting steel braided brake lines while im at it I actually have the Hytech baffles and have no problems with them. I did blow up a k-series motor at the track. Not due to an oil issue at all, but before the actual cause was known I over reacted some. The brake fluid is a good idea. Stainless steel lines certainly can't hurt anything and they do improve the pedal feel somewhat. Pads can be an issue also so make sure you have those taken care of. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wrecked Posted May 14, 2009 Author Share Posted May 14, 2009 i have about 6mm left all around. you think that will be enough for the day? If i get some pads like hawks, you think the stock rotors will be good if i resurface them or would it be best to just go with some brembo blanks? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lucid Moments Posted May 15, 2009 Share Posted May 15, 2009 I would definitely put new pads on there before a track day. Hawk HPS are a fair DD/Track pad that lean more toward the DD and Hawk HP+ lean more toward the track. There are lots of other good pads out there though so check around some. The particular track you will be running may influence your pad decision too. Check with locals and see what they see. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wrecked Posted May 15, 2009 Author Share Posted May 15, 2009 just ordered some goodies F+R hawk hps pads F+R camber kits 20mm wheel spacers progress rear sway bar(22mm) oil pressure gauge short shifter + cable bushing + base bushings cant wait.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
justint5387 Posted May 15, 2009 Share Posted May 15, 2009 Should go with HP+, the HPS doesn't really handle hard braking that well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wrecked Posted May 15, 2009 Author Share Posted May 15, 2009 but you cant really dd on hp+'s though.. or so ive heard. so i would have to switch out the pads each time i tracked it, which wouldn't be too much of a problem. But the first time i use them, i would have to resurface the rotors and break them in, then when i switch back and fourth between the hawks and stock pads i wouldn't have to keep resurfacing the rotors right? lmk asap b/c im going to switch my order soon probably. also, for the rear, do you the the normal haw hp pads will be ok? thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jsbumed Posted May 15, 2009 Share Posted May 15, 2009 HPS pads should be fine on the rear pads starting off. I know some people that run OE pads on the rear even. As far as the fronts, I too would suggest at least HP+ pads. Your car's front brakes will heat up fast. As far as the rotor is concerned, in an ideal world, you would have a set of rotors for track pads and a set of rotors for street pads. This isn't practical for a lot of people, and many people switch pads for the track and don't resurface or change the rotors. I did it for quite a while switching between DTC-60s and OE pads using the same rotors and never had a problem. As for the rest of your goodies, if you don't get them on the car before your first event I wouldn't worry about it too much. I would suggest leaving everything (besides brakes) stock for your first event anyway to learn the car's habits first. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lucid Moments Posted May 15, 2009 Share Posted May 15, 2009 You actually can DD on the HP+ pads. They are just noisey and dust a lot. They stop better when warm but are fine cold as long as you aren't trying to dive deep into a braking zone with cold brakes. I run Wilwood brakes on my car and change pads at the track, without changing the rotors. Like Jsbumed said in an ideal world I would change the rotors too, but thats just not practical for me. You just take it a little easy your first lap or two and you will be fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wrecked Posted May 15, 2009 Author Share Posted May 15, 2009 cool, thanks guys. i called up and switched to the hp+ pads and kept the normal hp's for the rear. Im going to resurface the first time i use these pads to break them in then just switch between pads without resurfacing. I heard in another thread that the dust from a certain pad was corrosive to the paint? i forget if that was the hp+'s or not but does anyone have any info on that? thanks again Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lucid Moments Posted May 16, 2009 Share Posted May 16, 2009 cool, thanks guys. i called up and switched to the hp+ pads and kept the normal hp's for the rear. Im going to resurface the first time i use these pads to break them in then just switch between pads without resurfacing. I heard in another thread that the dust from a certain pad was corrosive to the paint? i forget if that was the hp+'s or not but does anyone have any info on that? thanks again The main issue with the corrosiveness of the paint is in regards to the pain on the wheels. I used to run the HP+ pads and didn't have any issue with them and just normal car washing, but it is not an issue to ignore. I have totally ruined the paint on a set of goood SSR GT2 wheels with my track pads. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wrecked Posted May 16, 2009 Author Share Posted May 16, 2009 crap.... i dont want to mess up my wheels as the are very expensive and nice.. maybe i should buy a used set of rims for racing and get some nice road racing tires? or is there a chance they will be ok? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lucid Moments Posted May 16, 2009 Share Posted May 16, 2009 crap.... i dont want to mess up my wheels as the are very expensive and nice.. maybe i should buy a used set of rims for racing and get some nice road racing tires? or is there a chance they will be ok? They'll be fine just wash them within a day or two after you leave the track. That was my problem is that I let the dust sit on the wheels. My car doesn't get washed very often. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wrecked Posted May 16, 2009 Author Share Posted May 16, 2009 ok man.. im trusting you. I don't want it to damage the finish of my wheels at all Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Midnight FX Posted May 17, 2009 Share Posted May 17, 2009 HP+ are the way to go. No worries with dust on these pads. On the other hand Hawk blues are a real problem. My Alum. wheels have rust on them from not washing my wheels the same day as the track event. Although it wasn't the pad material that rusted , but the rotor dust from the pads being so aggressive. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wrecked Posted May 17, 2009 Author Share Posted May 17, 2009 cool. thanks for the info! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SNAKBITN Posted May 17, 2009 Share Posted May 17, 2009 I had the same problem using the blue's.Ran the car all day on Sat. came back Sunday from the hotel after a rain on Sat. night, both side's of my white car is now rust colored.I tried evevything to get it off,but it had gotten into the clearcoat.So I called Hawk to see what they reccomended.They said paint the car once ayear.So after I told him where to put his pads I started using Carbotech's and problem solved. Robert live and learn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raznkane Posted May 17, 2009 Share Posted May 17, 2009 First track pads I used were HP+ and they dusted really bad, of course I was probably pretty hard on them being new to track driving. This year I have switched to Carbotech XP12 and XP10 compounds and they have much less dust, but I am a little better braking also. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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