Tufast Posted January 19, 2010 Share Posted January 19, 2010 Okay, I'm sure this has been covered before thoroughly which is exactly why I don't want to search it. I plan I doing my 1st oil change on my 2010 GenCoupe R-Spec 2.0t at 1k miles in the near future prior to my 1st track day in Feb & am torn on what oil to use. This car has double duty as HPDE learning track car & daily driver. I know of 3 brands of synthetic I would be interested in: Royal Purple, Amsoil & Redline, but welcome any other recommendations. Also; any recommended weight/viscosity for southeast conditions would also be helpful. Finally, what do you guys/gals think of Lucas Additives, specifically synthetic stabilizer. Thanks in advance, Jerry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcolangelo2005 Posted January 19, 2010 Share Posted January 19, 2010 The brands you listed are all good. You should be OK with them. Just use a good synthetic oil and you'll be OK. I've had good luck with Castrol Syntec. I never messed with additives and never saw the need for them (at least at the HPDE level). Don't forget the brakes. Track pads (at least up front) and a DOT 4 brake fluid such as ATE Super Blue are a must for a track day. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tufast Posted January 19, 2010 Author Share Posted January 19, 2010 The brands you listed are all good. You should be OK with them. Just use a good synthetic oil and you'll be OK. I've had good luck with Castrol Syntec. I never messed with additives and never saw the need for them (at least at the HPDE level). Don't forget the brakes. Track pads (at least up front) and a DOT 4 brake fluid such as ATE Super Blue are a must for a track day. I've already got a set of Frixa street & race pads for front & rear. I also have Motul DOT4 brake fluid, SS brake lines, Ti backing plates, but I was waiting to install all when some quality 2pc lightweight rotors came about (most stuff for my car is still under devlopement). I was also planning on removing the brake dust covers to allow more air in. Should go ahead & do all the brake work now & later install the rotors? I ask because I'm not sure they will be available prior to my 1st event. BTW, MODE Racing is supposed to working with StopTech on some factory 2pc replacements for the stock Brembo 4 pots. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcolangelo2005 Posted January 19, 2010 Share Posted January 19, 2010 The brands you listed are all good. You should be OK with them. Just use a good synthetic oil and you'll be OK. I've had good luck with Castrol Syntec. I never messed with additives and never saw the need for them (at least at the HPDE level). Don't forget the brakes. Track pads (at least up front) and a DOT 4 brake fluid such as ATE Super Blue are a must for a track day. I've already got a set of Frixa street & race pads for front & rear. I also have Motul DOT4 brake fluid, SS brake lines, Ti backing plates, but I was waiting to install all when some quality 2pc lightweight rotors came about (most stuff for my car is still under devlopement). I was also planning on removing the brake dust covers to allow more air in. Should go ahead & do all the brake work now & later install the rotors? I ask because I'm not sure they will be available prior to my 1st event. BTW, MODE Racing is supposed to working with StopTech on some factory 2pc replacements for the stock Brembo 4 pots. I'd stick with the stock Brembos and stock rotors for your first track days. SS brake lines are good, too. Keep it simple for now. Actually, I'd do that for everything on your car. No need to start throwing parts on your car that you may not really need. Do you really need 2-piece rotors? Why? No offense, but it sounds like a waste of money. You'll probably benefit from brake cooling ducting. I fabbed up a set for my 95 Mustang GT with about $30 of parts from Home Depot and it worked very well. I'd keep the brake dust covers on for now, especially if this is your daily driver. Start thinking about the driver (you!). As the saying goes, the driver is the most important (and overlooked) mod on your car. Just my $0.02. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
getfast Posted January 20, 2010 Share Posted January 20, 2010 HPDE1? Bleed brakes w/hi-temp fluid, make sure factory oil is full, drive. Better front pads = optional. Everything else mentioned = optional. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kbrew8991 Posted January 20, 2010 Share Posted January 20, 2010 Better front pads = optional. Everything else mentioned = optional. depends on the car - KB, who wouldn't touch instructing in say an 80s Mustang with stock/stock replacement pads even in HPDE1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
getfast Posted January 20, 2010 Share Posted January 20, 2010 Agreed. I saw elsewhere that he was driving a brand-new Genesis coupe "angry snail edition". Personally I'd take that car out bone stock and untouched right off the showroom floor except for tire pressures... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tufast Posted January 20, 2010 Author Share Posted January 20, 2010 mcolangelo, I had no intentions of changing anything other than the oil after spending several days on these forums finding out it is in my best interest to leave the vehicle stock until I can out drive any particular aspect of the car. I'm changing the pads, because the factory pads are cut down to reduce brake squeal & therefore suck. Switching the lines, backing plates & fluid for less fade/better response. Replacing rotors & wheels to reduce rotational mass, therefore reducing power loss from crank to tires. I'm working on brake cooling ducts already & was only going to remove the dust covers when I seen the recommendation on these forums from another member. I am thinking of the driver (me), which is why I'm attending HPDE & not installing the $5,000 plus in mods I already got for the car. So here I am. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nasaregistrar Posted January 21, 2010 Share Posted January 21, 2010 I am thinking of the driver (me), which is why I'm attending HPDE & not installing the $5,000 plus in mods I already got for the car. So here I am.Unless you are wealthy, return said Mods , and buy track time and tires. You are going to need about 10 events under your belt before you may meet the min qualifications for TT Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Weston Posted January 21, 2010 Share Posted January 21, 2010 Racing oils may be overkill for HPDE, but for wheel-to-wheel racing, I use Valvoline VR1. It's loaded with anti-wear ingredients, and we've seen it keep a number of engines alive through some pretty ridiculous abuses (fires, oil starvation, severe over-heating, etc... even saw all of those happen to the same car, on the same weekend). I've also seen other guys run typical oil and blow their engine all over the track, from far less abuse. When opening the engines up after putting them through something bad, it's pretty clear that oils like VR1 protect far better than many others. I'd expect RedLine, Royal Purple, etc. to have similar good results, but they're expensive and have to be special ordered. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tufast Posted January 22, 2010 Author Share Posted January 22, 2010 Thanks for responses guys. I've decided to stick with Mobile1 synthetic like I've been using for my other cars in the past per Ron@Discovery Parts recommendation. This car is going to stay bone stock regarding power mods for a long time & therefore should not need a high performance oil that I have to order. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
almost heaven Posted January 22, 2010 Share Posted January 22, 2010 I'd use a synthetic in whatever viscosity the manufacturer calls for, and then monitor oil temps. The normal min. op temp for oil is 212 deg F. If your temps go over 250 in your usage, then I'd go to a heavier weight for that situation. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tufast Posted February 9, 2010 Author Share Posted February 9, 2010 I am thinking of the driver (me), which is why I'm attending HPDE & not installing the $5,000 plus in mods I already got for the car. So here I am.Unless you are wealthy, return said Mods , and buy track time and tires. You are going to need about 10 events under your belt before you may meet the min qualifications for TT I am not wealthy, but my cars usually rank high on my priority list. I don't go to the movies, out to eat, clubin or anything else. My cars consume me & I spend all extra change I have on them. Now I will just direct some of that money I spend on mods toward racing. I received my Rays VOLK TE37 Seibon Edition wheels, lugs & center caps yesterday & tires should be here later this week, so I won't be returning that 4 grand in mods...Muhahaha......LoL BTW, I'm shooting for 10 events this year, wish me luck... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
getfast Posted February 9, 2010 Share Posted February 9, 2010 If the center caps snap in from the front instead of pressing in from the back, you will want to leave 'em off for track use. Very common thing to see flying off in a corner, then go hunting for at the end of the day Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tufast Posted February 9, 2010 Author Share Posted February 9, 2010 If the center caps snap in from the front instead of pressing in from the back, you will want to leave 'em off for track use. Very common thing to see flying off in a corner, then go hunting for at the end of the day Thanks for the heads up.... I will be running the stock 19" rims this round, because I want to weigh the vehicle at the track before I do any weight reduction mods, including the lighter wheel/tire combo. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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