Holster Maker Posted April 5, 2010 Share Posted April 5, 2010 Looks great! I don't see the power-steering pump or is it hidden/electric. How do you like no PS? I see some more take off weight around the motor. FYI, seats look cloth-tube, if so nasa rules now outlaw them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quick35th Posted April 5, 2010 Author Share Posted April 5, 2010 Looks great!I don't see the power-steering pump or is it hidden/electric. How do you like no PS? I see some more take off weight around the motor. FYI, seats look cloth-tube, if so nasa rules now outlaw them. You are right you don't see a power steering pump . So far I love not having power steering. It offers all the feel for the track and what the front wheels are doing that I want. Only down side is I at times have to fight the steering wheel but that might be a factor of bad front tires that don't grip anymore. What weight can I still remove from the engine bay? Yes I am pretty sure the seats are cloth, they are the cheaper race seats so likely they are cloth Why did Nasa outlaw them? Shane Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aaron B Posted April 5, 2010 Share Posted April 5, 2010 be careful don't make it TOO light for AI or you'll end up trying to figure out where to bolt in 150lbs of ballast? I bought a Mustang that is 3100 with driver and 20 gal fuel, the car came with a fresh engine, 347 with mild heads, mild cam, no timing and a 600 holley....365RWH..no where to bolt in 367lbs+ that much isn't legal anyway so now it's AIX (unlimited) or ST2 (8.7 to 1 ) hp/wt ratio. Aaron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kbrew8991 Posted April 5, 2010 Share Posted April 5, 2010 FYI, seats look cloth-tube, if so nasa rules now outlaw them. unless they've got an FIA approval sticker on them, which I'd bet on... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raybob9289 Posted April 5, 2010 Share Posted April 5, 2010 Dude, That Tbird rocks.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Micks 41 Posted April 5, 2010 Share Posted April 5, 2010 Also needs a seat back brace if not FIA certified. This is for WTW racing, not sure what HPDE/TT requirements are. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quick35th Posted April 5, 2010 Author Share Posted April 5, 2010 Also needs a seat back brace if not FIA certified. This is for WTW racing, not sure what HPDE/TT requirements are. I was under the impression that I only needed a seat back brace if the seat reclined but I could be wrong, wouldn't be the first time. Idk if the seats are FIA aproved or not it has been so long since I installed the seats. Would the tag be on the underside of the seats? Shane Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nape Posted April 5, 2010 Share Posted April 5, 2010 Thanks for the build pics. I always used to look at my Mom's T-bird and think it had potential to be a great AI chassis. Keep on it, hope to see you on track with it soon. be careful don't make it TOO light for AI or you'll end up trying to figure out where to bolt in 150lbs of ballast? I bought a Mustang that is 3100 with driver and 20 gal fuel, the car came with a fresh engine, 347 with mild heads, mild cam, no timing and a 600 holley....365RWH..no where to bolt in 367lbs+ that much isn't legal anyway so now it's AIX (unlimited) or ST2 (8.7 to 1 ) hp/wt ratio. Aaron The same advice can be said as don't build too much motor or you'll be buying expensive Hoosiers. The 310 cu. in. of fury can be as light as 2925lbs post race with 225lb driver and fuel. Plenty of spots to bolt ballast in the car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quick35th Posted April 5, 2010 Author Share Posted April 5, 2010 be careful don't make it TOO light for AI or you'll end up trying to figure out where to bolt in 150lbs of ballast? I bought a Mustang that is 3100 with driver and 20 gal fuel, the car came with a fresh engine, 347 with mild heads, mild cam, no timing and a 600 holley....365RWH..no where to bolt in 367lbs+ that much isn't legal anyway so now it's AIX (unlimited) or ST2 (8.7 to 1 ) hp/wt ratio. Aaron The same advice can be said as don't build too much motor or you'll be buying expensive Hoosiers. The 310 cu. in. of fury can be as light as 2925lbs post race with 225lb driver and fuel. Plenty of spots to bolt ballast in the car. I have thought the same thing, why build a 347 when my 306 is plenty good, cheap, and I can have a lighter weight car. Maybe its just me. Thanks guys for all the kind words and advice! Shane Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
T&A Racing Posted April 6, 2010 Share Posted April 6, 2010 be careful don't make it TOO light for AI or you'll end up trying to figure out where to bolt in 150lbs of ballast? I bought a Mustang that is 3100 with driver and 20 gal fuel, the car came with a fresh engine, 347 with mild heads, mild cam, no timing and a 600 holley....365RWH..no where to bolt in 367lbs+ that much isn't legal anyway so now it's AIX (unlimited) or ST2 (8.7 to 1 ) hp/wt ratio. Aaron Aaron, I have the same motor, except with EFI, was able to get it down to meet your weight with a restrictor plate. Not a big deal if AIX or ST2 is a better route just wanted to give you another option. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aaron B Posted April 6, 2010 Share Posted April 6, 2010 the motor came with the car when I bought it- if I restrict it will the TQ come down?? that was my bigger problem...we kept putting smaller and smaller carbs on but the TQ never changed that's where having to to weigh so much was coming from for me- Hoosiers seem to be only slightly more expensive than my Toyo's Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dean#4AI Posted April 6, 2010 Share Posted April 6, 2010 the motor came with the car when I bought it- if I restrict it will the TQ come down?? that was my bigger problem...we kept putting smaller and smaller carbs on but the TQ never changed that's where having to to weigh so much was coming from for me- Hoosiers seem to be only slightly more expensive than my Toyo's I had a 342 and used a 390 carb with a restrictor plate that had removeable sleeves. Both the horsepower and torque came down as I went to smaller restrictors. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
T&A Racing Posted April 6, 2010 Share Posted April 6, 2010 the motor came with the car when I bought it- if I restrict it will the TQ come down?? that was my bigger problem...we kept putting smaller and smaller carbs on but the TQ never changed that's where having to to weigh so much was coming from for me- Hoosiers seem to be only slightly more expensive than my Toyo's Yea they both came down together, we had to tune the fuel ratio as we put in smaller plates. We kept the timing pretty low as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aaron B Posted April 6, 2010 Share Posted April 6, 2010 390 Carb/Restrictor...already have very low timing- Thanks for the info, I will be looking into this Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dean#4AI Posted April 6, 2010 Share Posted April 6, 2010 390 Carb/Restrictor...already have very low timing- Thanks for the info, I will be looking into this It has worked great for me. It did take some time to get the jetting right but once you hit that sweet spot, no problems at all. Just buy a jet kit and changing jets is easy enough to do. Good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
QUASAR Posted April 7, 2010 Share Posted April 7, 2010 Dude your bird is cool as hell. This kind of variety is awesome. I'll be at Mid Ohio this weekend, we'll chat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dillon Posted April 16, 2010 Share Posted April 16, 2010 Dude your bird is cool as hell. Completely agreed...this is pretty sweet. I've actually been looking at T-birds myself, they're dirt cheap and I bet they handle well with only minor upgrades. Seems like if you get a V8 car it's just a matter of getting a manual tranny, good shocks, some bolt on power adders and big brakes. Looking forward to seeing what kind of lap times you turn in this thing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Driver Posted April 27, 2010 Share Posted April 27, 2010 Dude your bird is cool as hell. Completely agreed...this is pretty sweet. I've actually been looking at T-birds myself, they're dirt cheap and I bet they handle well with only minor upgrades. They also have an IRS, which allows you to run rear camber without investing *any* money in additional equipment. It's actually pretty cleap and easy just to get one running well. There are a couple of simple conversions thta will allow you to use mustang parts like brakes and long-tubes (on a 5.0). Once gutted in race-ready form, they're quite easy to work on. I was in HPDE3 at Mid Ohio in a 1991 Cougar (same platform), on cheap street tires, and was able to hold my own in the pack. I don't recall being passed by anything that didn't rediculously outclass me. lol Mine weighs 3611 with a full tank and my ass, puts down 250rwhp, and was on 245's in the front and 275s in the back. 5.0 EFI f-cam, TKO trans, Shorties and a quiet exhaust. I have a good idea what lap times it was running at Mid Ohio, but didn't use a TX or Traqmate, just a stopwatch, so I'll just say it was "way under 2min". I've got some Hankook C50s for the next event I make it to, 275 fits on all 4 corners with no rubbing. Not much time for it, so I was thinking about parting it at the end of the season. If you'd like to take up the project, I'll happily sell it to you whole. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quick35th Posted April 27, 2010 Author Share Posted April 27, 2010 Eric, If you do decide to sell your car at the end of this season either myself or one of my friends would buy the car from you. PM me sometime with a price. Shane Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Red Tornado Posted May 1, 2010 Share Posted May 1, 2010 Damn this car does look bad ass!!! To your original question always test exactly as the rules say. Key is water temps and now avg of 3 runs. Get it very constant then go for 50-100lbs over weight or I like to run 30lbs heavy when the car is bone empty. Avoid's dyno variability and if someone cuts it really close it is only a 5-8rwhp difference which you really can't ever notice anyway. Also car straight from off track will always run about 5rwhp worse than when it has been sitting. I hate to acknowledge this here but most guys have figured out heavy cars with the same power to weight can push a unaerodynamic brick better through the wind at 120mph plus than a 2,800lb car. Yes those lighter cars will kick butt with tire wear, brake fade, etc.. but in our 20-30 minute sprint races this almost never matters. Also 5th gear gearing and rear gearing is critical. And aero hell yes. Alot of folks dial in way way to much downforce and they slow up at the 125-130mph mark big time and have 4-8mph less top speed. That is huge downside as I don't think they stick any better in turns. Most of the top runners have figured all this out and it is very much track dependent but at the national tracks the above approach works best. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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