yakisoba Posted August 2, 2010 Share Posted August 2, 2010 The last event in Texas at TWS brought home the acuity of the cooling situation for the C5Z corvette, running in TTA. I'm thinking of doing some mods to keep it running cool, and to potentially set up for later competition in PTA. I'm looking for input on points impact, because I'm not interested in moving into the higher dollar realm of TTS/ST2. Here's the breakdown: I've taken the one point for improved engine air intake. I've a Halltech Venom intake on the car. I'd like to buy an bigger radiator. That's a no points mod under this provision: 13) Radiator upgrade/shrouding/fascia modification (drilled or cut holes/slots) that only provides increased airflow to the radiator or oil/transmission coolers (without aerodynamic or engine air intake improvement) I'd like to vent the hood. Under provision 13 of the no-points mod list, it looks as if that's OK, so long as you've taken the point for improved engine intake. My oil cooler is in front of the radiator. I'd like to alter the angle of the radiator, to better pull air through it. I think that would fall under improved radiator, and be a no-points mod. In order to support the new radiator position, I'd cut out the front license plate frame on the fascia, for the express purpose of flowing air through the radiator. Normally, fascia mods are charged points, but for engine cooling, there is an exception, as far as I understand. How does that all sound? I was thinking an 18"x24" main HVAC return grille from Home Depot, some bondo, and away we go! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trevor57 Posted August 2, 2010 Share Posted August 2, 2010 It's likely that proper shrouding will be plenty. I would start there and work your way up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cobra4B Posted August 2, 2010 Share Posted August 2, 2010 From everything I've seen slanting the radiator forward is more trouble than it's worth. Not hard to do, but then you have to make custom coolant hoses and a custom long air intake tract to get the filter anywhere near outside air. Personally I've done the following: 1. Delete AC 100% 2. Replace coolant with distilled water and 2 bottles water wetter - stock radiator 3. DRM oil cooler kit with larger Setrab 625 cooler 4. Custom trimmed fan shround IMO there's no need to do anything more than that. I had a vented DRM hood on my old Z06 and they don't do much. The C5's design w/ the radiator laid back is setup to have air go through then down and out the underside of the car. To really use a vented hood you need to angle the radiator forward and preferably seal the radiator to the hood venting. I know the Pfadt guys have had it both ways and it was their opinion that the whole "leaning the radiator forward" in a C5 was un-needed and just made for extra work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yakisoba Posted August 2, 2010 Author Share Posted August 2, 2010 From everything I've seen slanting the radiator forward is more trouble than it's worth. Not hard to do, but then you have to make custom coolant hoses and a custom long air intake tract to get the filter anywhere near outside air. Personally I've done the following: 1. Delete AC 100% 2. Replace coolant with distilled water and 2 bottles water wetter - stock radiator 3. DRM oil cooler kit with larger Setrab 625 cooler 4. Custom trimmed fan shround IMO there's no need to do anything more than that. I had a vented DRM hood on my old Z06 and they don't do much. The C5's design w/ the radiator laid back is setup to have air go through then down and out the underside of the car. To really use a vented hood you need to angle the radiator forward and preferably seal the radiator to the hood venting. I know the Pfadt guys have had it both ways and it was their opinion that the whole "leaning the radiator forward" in a C5 was un-needed and just made for extra work. Thanks for the answer. There is a practicality aspect to it, as the front of the engine is much easier to get at with the radiator mounted that way, but your point is well taken. Perhaps I'll give Aaron a call. Always interested in learning from those that have gone before. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drivinhardz06 Posted August 2, 2010 Share Posted August 2, 2010 also interested in the "if taking points for the airbox, you can vent the hood". the "or" in that section makes it confusing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yakisoba Posted August 2, 2010 Author Share Posted August 2, 2010 also interested in the "if taking points for the airbox, you can vent the hood". the "or" in that section makes it confusing I was pretty sure that was covered in the thread on "fenders" recently. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cobra4B Posted August 2, 2010 Share Posted August 2, 2010 Yeah leaning the radiator forward makes for a nice open engine area, but having no AC makes taking the radiator in/out extremely easy.... especially w/ the hood off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Varkwso Posted August 2, 2010 Share Posted August 2, 2010 also interested in the "if taking points for the airbox, you can vent the hood". the "or" in that section makes it confusing I was pretty sure that was covered in the thread on "fenders" recently. I think it was clear in the thread that 1 pt covers it. I was fuzzy on that one myself. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ryan0 Posted August 2, 2010 Share Posted August 2, 2010 I know the Pfadt guys have had it both ways and it was their opinion that the whole "leaning the radiator forward" in a C5 was un-needed and just made for extra work. dont know if i buy this.. i've had it both ways too.. and it is currently OEM.. bolted on my splitter and undertray and it overheated within 2 laps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vettedoctor Posted August 2, 2010 Share Posted August 2, 2010 I'd have a hard time believing that adding a CAI kit and heat extractor hood and laying down the radiator would all be a 1 point mod. I can see reading the rule that way. But you are basically adding power (with the CAI) and improving aero with the heat extractor hood and the layed down radiator. C5 T1 cars have been running fine for years with just a stand alone oil cooler and an aftermarket radiator. Ours run around 210 coolant and 250 oil in 95+ heat. Last year we ran our ST2 car with the radiator in the stock location, heat extractor hood, DRM radiator with oil cooler and we ran hot (especially at Nationals). This year we have the radiator layed down, have an external oil cooler (and a dry sump) and coolant temps haven't been over 210 and oil hasn't been over 260. I think the true test will be in Sept when we head back to Utah in the thin air. Last year we saw 300 degree oil and over 250 coolant after 1 run! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
National Staff Greg G. Posted August 2, 2010 National Staff Share Posted August 2, 2010 I'd have a hard time believing that adding a CAI kit and heat extractor hood and laying down the radiator would all be a 1 point mod. I can see reading the rule that way. But you are basically adding power (with the CAI) and improving aero with the heat extractor hood and the layed down radiator.C5 T1 cars have been running fine for years with just a stand alone oil cooler and an aftermarket radiator. Ours run around 210 coolant and 250 oil in 95+ heat. Last year we ran our ST2 car with the radiator in the stock location, heat extractor hood, DRM radiator with oil cooler and we ran hot (especially at Nationals). This year we have the radiator layed down, have an external oil cooler (and a dry sump) and coolant temps haven't been over 210 and oil hasn't been over 260. I think the true test will be in Sept when we head back to Utah in the thin air. Last year we saw 300 degree oil and over 250 coolant after 1 run! Yes, +1 point Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sperkins Posted August 3, 2010 Share Posted August 3, 2010 Great. Now I gotta go find my sawzall. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jvetthead Posted August 3, 2010 Share Posted August 3, 2010 Great. Now I gotta go find my sawzall. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drivinhardz06 Posted August 3, 2010 Share Posted August 3, 2010 Great. Now I gotta go find my sawzall. I got one of werners old hoods around somewhere, it may be "intact" enough to be a guinea pig Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sperkins Posted August 3, 2010 Share Posted August 3, 2010 I have an extra one as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Varkwso Posted August 3, 2010 Share Posted August 3, 2010 Great. Now I gotta go find my sawzall. I got one of werners old hoods around somewhere, it may be "intact" enough to be a guinea pig Mike was looking for that hood to hang in his garage next to his 430. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drivinhardz06 Posted August 3, 2010 Share Posted August 3, 2010 Great. Now I gotta go find my sawzall. I got one of werners old hoods around somewhere, it may be "intact" enough to be a guinea pig Mike was looking for that hood to hang in his garage next to his 430. I told him it was at my house. I'll have to mow the grass to find it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ckearns Posted October 20, 2011 Share Posted October 20, 2011 For clarification, if a car is running under a dyno reclass, this is a zero point mod as the point was assessed under section C, correct? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kbrew8991 Posted October 20, 2011 Share Posted October 20, 2011 Just for refrence the event Tim was talking about was "lows" around 90-95*, highs under 110 but not by alot... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TurboShortBus Posted October 21, 2011 Share Posted October 21, 2011 For clarification, if a car is running under a dyno reclass, this is a zero point mod as the point was assessed under section C, correct? Yes; you skip sections B and C when you get a dyno reclass. But, if you make the modifications after you receive the reclass, and they affect the power level of the car, then you must re-dyno and submit for a new reclass. Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ckearns Posted October 21, 2011 Share Posted October 21, 2011 For clarification, if a car is running under a dyno reclass, this is a zero point mod as the point was assessed under section C, correct? Yes; you skip sections B and C when you get a dyno reclass. But, if you make the modifications after you receive the reclass, and they affect the power level of the car, then you must re-dyno and submit for a new reclass. Mark Excellent. Thank you! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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