A few questions

[evojim]

I plan on progressing through HPDE's and planning to try TT action in the near future. With that in mind, I am looking at mod points and how the things I have done (and will do) to my car will place me in a TT class. The car is an 06 Mistu Evo IX.

 

I replaced the stock intercooler with an ETS unit. This would be 4 points, correct? There is a 7 point item for adding and intercooler, but I presume that is for a car that did not have one as OEM?

 

I've installed Bilstien HD struts and Swift Spec R springs, which if I read correctly get me 3 points (for the Bilstiens) and 2 points for the springs. If I go to a coilover that does not have an external reservior and has 2 or less ragnes of adjustment, it would still be the same, 3 and 2 points, correct? As long as the shaft diameter is less than 40mm (not the piston)?

 

Replacing sway bars, is it 2 points per axle or 2 points period whether you do one or both?

 

An offset bushing set (like the Perrin PSRS) that just adds caster is no points, correct? Same with Simple replacement of the OEM bushings with PolyU units?

 

Looks like the Whiteline Bump Steer kit would be 2 points. How many points would their roll center correction kit be (new ball joints and tie-rod ends)? I'm a little fuzzy on that one.

 

I replaced the POS OEM plastic undertray (anybody who has worked on an Evo knows what I am taking about) with an aluminum Beatrush Unit. It extends about 2-3" back past the front axle centerline. To avoid points for this, I would need to modify it to end at the front axle centerline, correct?

 

Thanks

[boomn29]

I plan on progressing through HPDE's and planning to try TT action in the near future. With that in mind, I am looking at mod points and how the things I have done (and will do) to my car will place me in a TT class. The car is an 06 Mistu Evo IX.

 

I replaced the stock intercooler with an ETS unit. This would be 4 points, correct? There is a 7 point item for adding and intercooler, but I presume that is for a car that did not have one as OEM?

 

I've installed Bilstien HD struts and Swift Spec R springs, which if I read correctly get me 3 points (for the Bilstiens) and 2 points for the springs. If I go to a coilover that does not have an external reservior and has 2 or less ragnes of adjustment, it would still be the same, 3 and 2 points, correct? As long as the shaft diameter is less than 40mm (not the piston)?

 

Replacing sway bars, is it 2 points per axle or 2 points period whether you do one or both?

 

An offset bushing set (like the Perrin PSRS) that just adds caster is no points, correct? Same with Simple replacement of the OEM bushings with PolyU units?

 

Looks like the Whiteline Bump Steer kit would be 2 points. How many points would their roll center correction kit be (new ball joints and tie-rod ends)? I'm a little fuzzy on that one.

 

I replaced the POS OEM plastic undertray (anybody who has worked on an Evo knows what I am taking about) with an aluminum Beatrush Unit. It extends about 2-3" back past the front axle centerline. To avoid points for this, I would need to modify it to end at the front axle centerline, correct?

 

Thanks

Correct on intercooler; +4 to upgrade.

Correct on the suspension, +3 and +2 respectively = +5 total

Swaybars are +2, no matter if you do 1,2,3,4 etc! lol....

Bumpsteer kit is +2

Roll-Center correction is +4. Check here for thread from Greg G:

viewtopic.php?f=2&t=35363&p=258561&hilit=roll+center+correction+kit#p258561Falls under:

17) Add panhard rod or Watt’s link (regardless of whether the Watt’s link replaces an OEM

panhard rod or not) +4

 

The bushings are no-points provided they are non-metallic.

The Beatrush unit is a no-points mod providing it's forward of the front axle; yes.

no-points mods:

29) Non-metallic replacement suspension bushings

39) Undertray/ belly pan forward of the centerline of the front axle

 

Nice car.... With your current setup, depending on what tire/size you want to run, you'll be in either your base class of TTB or up to TTA.

Looks like a +15 from the above, then add the +5 for it being turbo and you're at +20 which would slot you barely into TTA.

[TurboShortBus]

I replaced the stock intercooler with an ETS unit. This would be 4 points, correct? There is a 7 point item for adding and intercooler, but I presume that is for a car that did not have one as OEM?

You are not adding an intercooler to a car that didn't already have one, therefore:

18) Non-OEM or modified intercooler +4 (Intercooler sprayers are not permitted unless they came on the OEM base trim model of the vehicle)

 

But, watch out for this if the non-OEM IC is not a direct replacement, and it alters the OEM piping (for example, this would affect the Subaru WRX drivers who replace the top-mount ICs with FMICs):

13) Modification of the OEM air intake/box, air filter location, air piping to the turbo/supercharger/throttle body/intercooler/

carburetor, or hood/fascia/fender air inlets, outlets, or vents +1 (air filter upgrade alone—0 pts.)

 

I've installed Bilstien HD struts and Swift Spec R springs, which if I read correctly get me 3 points (for the Bilstiens) and 2 points for the springs. If I go to a coilover that does not have an external reservior and has 2 or less ragnes of adjustment, it would still be the same, 3 and 2 points, correct? As long as the shaft diameter is less than 40mm (not the piston)?

From what I have been told, if you are already paying the proper points for non-OEM shocks/struts and non-OEM springs, then installing coilovers (aka coil springs that are located around the body of the shock/strut and are not separate) does not necessarily constitute additional points.

 

Replacing sway bars, is it 2 points per axle or 2 points period whether you do one or both?

Points per line item are not additive; if you do one of them or do them all, you still pay the points listed on that line only.

 

An offset bushing set (like the Perrin PSRS) that just adds caster is no points, correct? Same with Simple replacement of the OEM bushings with PolyU units?

No comment at this time; Evo specialists should chime in here.

 

Looks like the Whiteline Bump Steer kit would be 2 points. How many points would their roll center correction kit be (new ball joints and tie-rod ends)? I'm a little fuzzy on that one.

Likely this, in addition to the bumpsteer kit points:

16) Alteration of ball joints/dive angles +2

 

I replaced the POS OEM plastic undertray (anybody who has worked on an Evo knows what I am taking about) with an aluminum Beatrush Unit. It extends about 2-3" back past the front axle centerline. To avoid points for this, I would need to modify it to end at the front axle centerline, correct

See this in the No-Points Modifications section of the 2010 TT rules:

39) Undertray/ belly pan forward of the centerline of the front axle

 

If anything seems unclear, then it may help to post links to specific parts in question.

 

Mark

[TurboShortBus]

Roll-Center correction is +4. Check here for thread from Greg G:

viewtopic.php?f=2&t=35363&p=258561&hilit=roll+center+correction+kit#p258561Falls under:

17) Add panhard rod or Watt’s link (regardless of whether the Watt’s link replaces an OEM

panhard rod or not) +4

I'm not entirely sure that this would apply to a non-live axle car, as it seems (to me) that Greg was referring to the second half of the first post in that thread.

 

Mark

[evojim]

I plan on progressing through HPDE's and planning to try TT action in the near future. With that in mind, I am looking at mod points and how the things I have done (and will do) to my car will place me in a TT class. The car is an 06 Mistu Evo IX.

 

I replaced the stock intercooler with an ETS unit. This would be 4 points, correct? There is a 7 point item for adding and intercooler, but I presume that is for a car that did not have one as OEM?

 

I've installed Bilstien HD struts and Swift Spec R springs, which if I read correctly get me 3 points (for the Bilstiens) and 2 points for the springs. If I go to a coilover that does not have an external reservior and has 2 or less ragnes of adjustment, it would still be the same, 3 and 2 points, correct? As long as the shaft diameter is less than 40mm (not the piston)?

 

Replacing sway bars, is it 2 points per axle or 2 points period whether you do one or both?

 

An offset bushing set (like the Perrin PSRS) that just adds caster is no points, correct? Same with Simple replacement of the OEM bushings with PolyU units?

 

Looks like the Whiteline Bump Steer kit would be 2 points. How many points would their roll center correction kit be (new ball joints and tie-rod ends)? I'm a little fuzzy on that one.

 

I replaced the POS OEM plastic undertray (anybody who has worked on an Evo knows what I am taking about) with an aluminum Beatrush Unit. It extends about 2-3" back past the front axle centerline. To avoid points for this, I would need to modify it to end at the front axle centerline, correct?

 

Thanks

Correct on intercooler; +4 to upgrade.

Correct on the suspension, +3 and +2 respectively = +5 total

Swaybars are +2, no matter if you do 1,2,3,4 etc! lol....

Bumpsteer kit is +2

Roll-Center correction is +4. Check here for thread from Greg G:

viewtopic.php?f=2&t=35363&p=258561&hilit=roll+center+correction+kit#p258561Falls under:

17) Add panhard rod or Watt’s link (regardless of whether the Watt’s link replaces an OEM

panhard rod or not) +4

 

The bushings are no-points provided they are non-metallic.

The Beatrush unit is a no-points mod providing it's forward of the front axle; yes.

no-points mods:

29) Non-metallic replacement suspension bushings

39) Undertray/ belly pan forward of the centerline of the front axle

 

Nice car.... With your current setup, depending on what tire/size you want to run, you'll be in either your base class of TTB or up to TTA.

Looks like a +15 from the above, then add the +5 for it being turbo and you're at +20 which would slot you barely into TTA.

 

Hey, I had a conversation with you on EvoM about brakes (I did the little Carbotech/Dba review). Nice Evo you have. Been reading your blog! BTW, just ordered the Ti shims and will be swapping to the Amsoil Dot4. I started finding limits a couple of weeks ago.

 

Actually I am at 38 points right now (including the 5 for being a turbo car). Some of these things I have already done, some I am considering.

 

-Already have a rear sway, so adding the front is no more points.

-Haven't done the Roll Center Kit, just checking what the points would be

-Already got the Beatrush Undertray, but can easily shorten it to avoid the points, no way I'm putting that plastic nightmare back on.

-Taking a 3-point hit for Evo 8 3rd, 4th and 5th gears in my built transmission. I wanted the taller gears because I still DD the car some. Wasted 3 points there. If I have the tranny refreshed in the near future, the IX gears will go back in.

-Going from the Bilstien/Swift setup to moderate coilvers should add no more points.

-I have 3 points for Beatrush lower brace and sub-frame connectors that I would probably take off to free up points. Put OEM back on.

- I have a ported stock Ex manifold (2 points) that I would probably take off as it really hasn't showed much gain with the stock turbo.

 

I'd like to free up enough points to run NT01's or R888's since I'm probably going to be classed as TTA.

 

I know the car will make around 360awhp without the ported ex manifold.

 

As an Evo guy, are there any seperate points for the O2 housing upgrade? Or is it part of the exhaust system points (which I already counted)?

[evojim]

I replaced the stock intercooler with an ETS unit. This would be 4 points, correct? There is a 7 point item for adding and intercooler, but I presume that is for a car that did not have one as OEM?

You are not adding an intercooler to a car that didn't already have one, therefore:

18) Non-OEM or modified intercooler +4 (Intercooler sprayers are not permitted unless they came on the OEM base trim model of the vehicle)

 

But, watch out for this if the non-OEM IC is not a direct replacement, and it alters the OEM piping (for example, this would affect the Subaru WRX drivers who replace the top-mount ICs with FMICs):

13) Modification of the OEM air intake/box, air filter location, air piping to the turbo/supercharger/throttle body/intercooler/

carburetor, or hood/fascia/fender air inlets, outlets, or vents +1 (air filter upgrade alone—0 pts.)

 

 

That's cool, I already counted a point for my ETS Lower Intercooler Pipe. I also have an ETS Intake tube with cone filter, but from what I've read this is covered by the same point as the IC piping, correct?

 

So Repalcement of OEM Intercooler (+4), Upgrade of Intercooler and/or Intake Piping/Filter (+1) , 5 total

[drivinhardz06]

I'm probably going to be classed as TTA.

 

SE TTA growing everyday

[boomn29]

I plan on progressing through HPDE's and planning to try TT action in the near future. With that in mind, I am looking at mod points and how the things I have done (and will do) to my car will place me in a TT class. The car is an 06 Mistu Evo IX.

 

I replaced the stock intercooler with an ETS unit. This would be 4 points, correct? There is a 7 point item for adding and intercooler, but I presume that is for a car that did not have one as OEM?

 

I've installed Bilstien HD struts and Swift Spec R springs, which if I read correctly get me 3 points (for the Bilstiens) and 2 points for the springs. If I go to a coilover that does not have an external reservior and has 2 or less ragnes of adjustment, it would still be the same, 3 and 2 points, correct? As long as the shaft diameter is less than 40mm (not the piston)?

 

Replacing sway bars, is it 2 points per axle or 2 points period whether you do one or both?

 

An offset bushing set (like the Perrin PSRS) that just adds caster is no points, correct? Same with Simple replacement of the OEM bushings with PolyU units?

 

Looks like the Whiteline Bump Steer kit would be 2 points. How many points would their roll center correction kit be (new ball joints and tie-rod ends)? I'm a little fuzzy on that one.

 

I replaced the POS OEM plastic undertray (anybody who has worked on an Evo knows what I am taking about) with an aluminum Beatrush Unit. It extends about 2-3" back past the front axle centerline. To avoid points for this, I would need to modify it to end at the front axle centerline, correct?

 

Thanks

Correct on intercooler; +4 to upgrade.

Correct on the suspension, +3 and +2 respectively = +5 total

Swaybars are +2, no matter if you do 1,2,3,4 etc! lol....

Bumpsteer kit is +2

Roll-Center correction is +4. Check here for thread from Greg G:

viewtopic.php?f=2&t=35363&p=258561&hilit=roll+center+correction+kit#p258561Falls under:

17) Add panhard rod or Watt’s link (regardless of whether the Watt’s link replaces an OEM

panhard rod or not) +4

 

The bushings are no-points provided they are non-metallic.

The Beatrush unit is a no-points mod providing it's forward of the front axle; yes.

no-points mods:

29) Non-metallic replacement suspension bushings

39) Undertray/ belly pan forward of the centerline of the front axle

 

Nice car.... With your current setup, depending on what tire/size you want to run, you'll be in either your base class of TTB or up to TTA.

Looks like a +15 from the above, then add the +5 for it being turbo and you're at +20 which would slot you barely into TTA.

 

Hey, I had a conversation with you on EvoM about brakes (I did the little Carbotech/Dba review). Nice Evo you have. Been reading your blog! BTW, just ordered the Ti shims and will be swapping to the Amsoil Dot4. I started finding limits a couple of weeks ago.

 

Actually I am at 38 points right now (including the 5 for being a turbo car). Some of these things I have already done, some I am considering.

 

-Already have a rear sway, so adding the front is no more points.

-Haven't done the Roll Center Kit, just checking what the points would be

-Already got the Beatrush Undertray, but can easily shorten it to avoid the points, no way I'm putting that plastic nightmare back on.

-Taking a 3-point hit for Evo 8 3rd, 4th and 5th gears in my built transmission. I wanted the taller gears because I still DD the car some. Wasted 3 points there. If I have the tranny refreshed in the near future, the IX gears will go back in.

-Going from the Bilstien/Swift setup to moderate coilvers should add no more points.

-I have 3 points for Beatrush lower brace and sub-frame connectors that I would probably take off to free up points. Put OEM back on.

- I have a ported stock Ex manifold (2 points) that I would probably take off as it really hasn't showed much gain with the stock turbo.

 

I'd like to free up enough points to run NT01's or R888's since I'm probably going to be classed as TTA.

 

I know the car will make around 360awhp without the ported ex manifold.

 

As an Evo guy, are there any seperate points for the O2 housing upgrade? Or is it part of the exhaust system points (which I already counted)?

Oh - I've got ya.

 

Some suggestions for my Evo breatheren:

- Don't do the roll-center adjustment. Just don't slam the car too low and you'll be ok.

- If you need to points, take out the bump/steer kit. I did that back in 2009.

- NT01/R888 are needed to compete in TTA - at a minimum. Most are on Hoosiers but you can compete with good driving.

- That 3pts for gearing sucks - but it's definitely worthwhile at some tracks. I wish I had it and might opt for it depending where I use my TTA pts for next year

- If you've got a lower ICP, go ahead and to the upper ICP. You'll lose some bends and you can then run silicon hoses and tighten everything down nice and tight so things don't pop off under WOT.

- If you're not close - strip some weight out to get down towards the min. It'll take some doing if you've got full interior and stock seats yet but it's doable w/o gutting too badly.

- HAVE FUN!

[jason]

Always room for more TTA cars.

[evojim]

Oh - I've got ya.

 

Some suggestions for my Evo breatheren:

- Don't do the roll-center adjustment. Just don't slam the car too low and you'll be ok.

- If you need to points, take out the bump/steer kit. I did that back in 2009.

- NT01/R888 are needed to compete in TTA - at a minimum. Most are on Hoosiers but you can compete with good driving.

- That 3pts for gearing sucks - but it's definitely worthwhile at some tracks. I wish I had it and might opt for it depending where I use my TTA pts for next year

- If you've got a lower ICP, go ahead and to the upper ICP. You'll lose some bends and you can then run silicon hoses and tighten everything down nice and tight so things don't pop off under WOT.

- If you're not close - strip some weight out to get down towards the min. It'll take some doing if you've got full interior and stock seats yet but it's doable w/o gutting too badly.

- HAVE FUN!

 

Already planning to do the Optima 51R battery in the trunk (no points from what I've Read) and install short route UICP after that. I figure anythnig to help the nose-heavy bias of the car is worthwhile.

 

I've done several track days and HPDE's this summer, going to RA in Nov for the MVPTracktime HPDE. Starting early next year I plan to target some NASA HPDE events in particular and try to get HPDE4 and possibly try some time trials later next year.

 

Just looking ahead for now to try and keep an eye on points as I modify the car. I have only found the car really lacking in one thing as a realtive track noob, and that is the understeer. The Bilstiens/Swifts/RSB have all helped. Also a more agrresive alignment helped as well. But they do like to push the nose in slow tight stuff.

 

I do plan on doing the Shep or TRE rear diff LSD rework. I'm already taking those points for my Shep Stage 3 Tcase with Quaife LSD, so upgrading the rear LSD would be no additional points.

[obzezzed350]

Slap a cage in that thing and go run PTA!

[TurboShortBus]

IMO, you may want to delay installing some of those parts until you are at or closer to the TT level, as there's no sense in wearing out expensive parts in HPDE. Besides, you may find that some of the modifications don't work all that well for you, and you could end up removing and selling them for half of what you paid for them (minus the labor). We have a few TT drivers down here who are going as fast or faster on stock parts than they did with non-OEM parts, and they are spending those points (and dollars) elsewhere. I would recommend that you spend the money on seat time and consumables (tires, brakes, etc.) for now, and buy speed parts as you grow with the car (unless you have one of those unlimited budgets that I hear about from time to time).

 

Mark

[evojim]

IMO, you may want to delay installing some of those parts until you are at or closer to the TT level, as there's no sense in wearing out expensive parts in HPDE. Besides, you may find that some of the modifications don't work all that well for you, and you could end up removing and selling them for half of what you paid for them (minus the labor). We have a few TT drivers down here who are going as fast or faster on stock parts than they did with non-OEM parts, and they are spending those points (and dollars) elsewhere. I would recommend that you spend the money on seat time and consumables (tires, brakes, etc.) for now, and buy speed parts as you grow with the car (unless you have one of those unlimited budgets that I hear about from time to time).

 

Mark

 

Not to worry. I'm not going to show up for an HPDE sporting Hoosiers anytime soon. No, I don't have an unlimited budget. Just trying to plan where I take the car over the next year so that by the time I'm ready to try some TT action, the car is pretty close to being ready as well.

 

For now (and the near future) I am just rockin' some good old Star Spec Z1's for HPDE duty in a reasonable size (255/40/17). I have spent some $$ on brakes (pads/rotors/SS lines, regular fluid flushes), but that is mandatory even in HPDE if you want to start exploring the limits of the car and yourself. I have also spent a fair amount of change on the drivetrain, mostly for reliability reasons. Just wish I had known about the gear ratio penalty when I had the tranny built.

 

As far as the engine, bone stock with bone stock turbo and a good selection of bolt-ons+tune. That's a guilty pleasure

 

I actually started HPDE's on bone stock suspension with some Nitto NT-05's. Found out a stock Evo understeers like mad in tight stuff and it killed the tires in short order. I'll stick with the Bilstien's and Swifts for a while yet. Plenty good for most HPDE driving and getting lots of seat time.

 

Just for the record, I am not some dreamy eyed teen. I am a 44 year old engineering manager who finally has things (family and finances) taken care of well enough for me to go have some fun! And I've aleady been having a blast doing the HPDE stuff.

[boomn29]

.........Just looking ahead for now to try and keep an eye on points as I modify the car. I have only found the car really lacking in one thing as a realtive track noob, and that is the understeer. The Bilstiens/Swifts/RSB have all helped. Also a more agrresive alignment helped as well. But they do like to push the nose in slow tight stuff.

 

I do plan on doing the Shep or TRE rear diff LSD rework. I'm already taking those points for my Shep Stage 3 Tcase with Quaife LSD, so upgrading the rear LSD would be no additional points.

I just had the Shep rear diff installed - it's amazing.

 

Unless you run some crazy toe setting (that'll eat tires), if you run 8/10's or better you'll find understeer in nearly any AWD car that doesn't have good diffs or AYC. I've got about 60 days under my belt on my Evo IX now and rolled through 4 suspension including bone stock.

 

As for the mods - there's 2 schools of thought. Like one guy suggested; drive it as bone stock as you can and find out the limits and upgrade those parts as needed. Or, if you have some experience and know a good setup from others; upgrade immediately and learn the car knowing it's balanced correctly. No matter what you choose; keep the power level where it's at; upping that reduces reliability, increases consumables, etc....

[sperkins]

[evojim]

As for the mods - there's 2 schools of thought. Like one guy suggested; drive it as bone stock as you can and find out the limits and upgrade those parts as needed. Or, if you have some experience and know a good setup from others; upgrade immediately and learn the car knowing it's balanced correctly. No matter what you choose; keep the power level where it's at; upping that reduces reliability, increases consumables, etc....

 

That's sort of the approach I have taken. Started out bone stock, found understeer limits real quick. Didn't want to go 'all out' so I adopted the 'SmikeEvo' setup from EvoM with the Bilstein's and Swift SpecR springs, instead of going for high dollar coilovers. I'll continue to run this setup for the forseeable future with just some minor tweaks. My alignment is 2 deg camber front, 1.5 degrees rear and 0 toe all around. Combined with the mild suspension upgrade, it really helped the understeer and severe roll-over wear I saw in the front.

 

Agreed, 360awhp is plenty to get me in trouble

 

I am just a planner and looking forward to perhaps joing the TT ranks over the next 1-2 years.