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Brakes for a heavy V8?


NaptownDriver

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Im not sure what kind of brake pads would be best for my application in a Mustang GT. It has the "Cobra front brake upgrade" which is basicly 13inch rotors in the front.

 

What kind of pad/rotor combo would be ideal? Id say my two main tracks are Summit Point and Virginia International.

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From my experience with the 3684lb 99 Cobra I tracked for years as well as the 01 Cobra vert we still own, I recommend sticking to Brembo blanks for rotors from RockAuto or TireRack and Carbotech XP10 front and XP8 rear pads. I have run Hawks, Carbotechs, etc. in varying combinations and pad grade. XP10/XP8 was the best with XP10/XP10 right there with it. I ran an XP12/XP10 combination for a little while and did not see where the 12s really gave that car much over the 10s (longevity and stopping power).

 

In my Z06, I run an XP12/XP10 setup.

 

 

-Kevin

 

 

EDIT: Brake ducts for cooling are a MUST on a Mustang!

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I've never driven at your tracks, so I can't say specifically. However, the first responder sounds right: Carbotech xp10/xp8 combination should do you pretty well. I can't recommend ducting strongly enough. It will really improve your brake longevity and shorten recovery time. The worst feeling is to go into a heavy braking cycle, followed by a short cooldown, then reach for the brakes again... And they are gone.

 

I run the xp10/8 combo on the vette, and it's just a little lighter than your car. I would recommend carbotech over hawk because of rotor wear, though the Hawk products are just fine for stopping power.

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I ran an 01 v6 Mustang with STOCK brakes, the only thing that worked was hawk blues. Had to change rotors every time I changed pads

 

For you I'd start with the carbotech 10/8 combo - order them from carbotech and let them know you are a NASA member.

Get LOTS of air on the center of the rotor, especially the fronts! As you move up you may want to try 12/10 if you can change the rear bias for the rears to come on sooner.

 

Have you done any suspension mods yet?

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I have a lot of suspension work done. stock k member but its braced, coil overs, 4 link rear, subframe connectors, roll cage.

 

Just curious, an reason to tell carbotech im a NASA member?

 

Also with ducts i know they are essential. I dont know how i would direct the air to the center of the rotor....help? lol

 

thanks guys!

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I have a lot of suspension work done. stock k member but its braced, coil overs, 4 link rear, subframe connectors, roll cage.

 

Just curious, an reason to tell carbotech im a NASA member?

 

Also with ducts i know they are essential. I dont know how i would direct the air to the center of the rotor....help? lol

 

thanks guys!

 

Carbotech direct gives a discount for NASA members.

Do you still have the stock dust shieds? a little fabrication based on them should get some air in there.

Take a look at the qunatum ducts for the C4 corvette. They are close to what you need.

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From my experience with the 3684lb 99 Cobra I tracked for years as well as the 01 Cobra vert we still own, I recommend sticking to Brembo blanks for rotors from RockAuto or TireRack and Carbotech XP10 front and XP8 rear pads. I have run Hawks, Carbotechs, etc. in varying combinations and pad grade. XP10/XP8 was the best with XP10/XP10 right there with it. I ran an XP12/XP10 combination for a little while and did not see where the 12s really gave that car much over the 10s (longevity and stopping power).

 

In my Z06, I run an XP12/XP10 setup.

 

-Kevin

 

EDIT: Brake ducts for cooling are a MUST on a Mustang!

 

 

 

I have a 2000 Mustang GT, with Cobra R front brembos and cobra rears. I'm totally satisfied with the XP10's up front, and have been changing around the rears. Right now I'm using HAWK HP+. Reason I use such a lesser pad in the rear is 1. they do very little braking in this car, and 2. I get brake moan with a very stick pad (caused by the axle flexing in corners, and the rotor rubbing the pads - nothing you can do with a live axle to correct it, I already have 31 spline axles).

 

Any-ways, I think you should get Carbotech XP10s up front, and any road course oriented rear will do fine. My XP10's last me the better part of a full season. How I don't know but they are an amazing pad!

 

As for cooling ducts, I just removed all my dust shields and I haven't had any problems. No ducts here, but the larger 4 piston brembos may help dissapate the heat a little better than your 2 piston cobra calipers

 

Brembo blanks work fine for me. I had the slotted ones and they began to warp a little. I've heard some nasty stories about them so I opted for blanks on the replacements. No issues since.

 

As for performance. every instructor thats been in my car has been impressed by the brakes. There are very very few cars I've run into that can out brake my pig.

 

Car has about 300RWHP and weights about 3300lbs with me in it.

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Cobra R Brembo's are definitely a good upgrade on a Mustang, if your class rules allow for them.

 

All year on XP10s? Wow, I could go through a new set in 3 days at CMP but that track is hard on brakes.

 

 

-Kevin

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Cobra R Brembo's are definitely a good upgrade on a Mustang, if your class rules allow for them.

 

All year on XP10s? Wow, I could go through a new set in 3 days at CMP but that track is hard on brakes.

 

 

-Kevin

 

well, by all year I mean about 10-12 track days.

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The important thing is getting cool air to the center of the rotors and the calipers, especially on a heavy high horsepower car. You also need a good high temp brake fluid like Motul 600, AP, or Castrol SRF. As far as pads go, the PF 01 is a great pad. I ran these on my car this year. Very fade resistant and they last a long time. The Hawk DTC-70 is also a good pad, but the PF 01 will last longer. Whichever pad you choose, keep a close eye on them. When they get below 50% worn, consider replacing them because at that point, the pads have lost a good portion of their ability to dissipate heat.

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Cobra R Brembo's are definitely a good upgrade on a Mustang, if your class rules allow for them.

 

All year on XP10s? Wow, I could go through a new set in 3 days at CMP but that track is hard on brakes.

 

 

-Kevin

 

well, by all year I mean about 10-12 track days.

 

 

OK - maybe I was still thinking of my HPDE 2 days. I just checked my pads after 3 HARD days at NJMP thunderbolt. They were paper thin.

 

I apologize for the bad information.... The XP10's wi;; last you 10 days or so at the DE1 and 2 level. At 3 and 4 maybe 3-4 days (about 500miles total)

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OK - maybe I was still thinking of my HPDE 2 days. I just checked my pads after 3 HARD days at NJMP thunderbolt. They were paper thin.

 

I apologize for the bad information.... The XP10's wi;; last you 10 days or so at the DE1 and 2 level. At 3 and 4 maybe 3-4 days (about 500miles total)

 

 

That sounds about right... where is that "poke poke" smiley?!?!?! Good description on the usage by skill level.

 

 

-Kevin

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