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questions about dyno reclassing


cool hand luke

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I just read through the rule changes, which brought up lots of stuff I didn't know, and had me go back and read the rule set again. ONe thing that I'm confused on is dyno reclassing. I understand why the rules states there are times when you have to reclass (engine, turbo swap, etc)

 

but I don't get what the point of the optional re-class is.

 

Is the point that if you for some reason have less HP than what you should, or are way heavier on weight than what is listed, you can get moved down a class or two and still be competitive?

 

If this happens, when you are reclassed, do they put you in a new class that you are very close to the hp/weight limit for? it seems like this would be unfair to guys that are supposed to be in that class.

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Is the point that if you for some reason have less HP than what you should, or are way heavier on weight than what is listed, you can get moved down a class or two and still be competitive?

Yes, this is the main reason to do an optional reclass. Also, if you make more power than is allowed in your class or weigh less than the minimum competitive weight, you can use this alternative. But mostly it's the former reason.

 

If this happens, when you are reclassed, do they put you in a new class that you are very close to the hp/weight limit for? it seems like this would be unfair to guys that are supposed to be in that class.

In all of the cases that I have examined, you are NOT close to the W/P limit for the class. In my particular case (TTD), the W/P ratio for my car is 14.82:1 and 14.25:1 is the limit. One of my competitors is classified on points and his car is right at 14.25:1.

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In all of the cases that I have examined, you are NOT close to the W/P limit for the class. In my particular case (TTD), the W/P ratio for my car is 14.82:1 and 14.25:1 is the limit. One of my competitors is classified on points and his car is right at 14.25:1.

Note that the chassis are very dissimilar in this case: a nearly 50f/50r balanced Miata with decent independent suspension all the way around vs a 60f/40r balanced Mustang with struts up front and a stick axle out back.

 

The type and layout of the chassis is a factor when determining the base class in the rules as well as custom re-classes for specific weight/power combinations.

 

Mark

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Mark's got it exactly - how close / not close you are is figured out the same way every car's normal base class is - weight, horsepower, chassis layout, OEM engineering, aero, suspension design, etc, etc. Those are the ones I can recall seeing Greg say was a factor anyway.

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In all of the cases that I have examined, you are NOT close to the W/P limit for the class. In my particular case (TTD), the W/P ratio for my car is 14.82:1 and 14.25:1 is the limit. One of my competitors is classified on points and his car is right at 14.25:1.

 

Likewise here. Class limit is 16.5:1, my reclass has me at 17:1 unadjusted.

 

However, I believe my car works waaay better with a reclass vs base classing. I would have had to add a lot of weight (from where I am now) and have no points to spare going off of base classing vs only adding 30lbs ballast (to for sure stay above my reclass weight) and have 3 points to spare.

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Intended as a question. Particularly the no asterisk.

It is not possible to predict your base reclass, unless another car that is identical to yours (manufacturer/make, year, power, and weight) has already received a base reclass.

 

Mark

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So if I megasquirt my unboosted 1.6 miata to 120 whp (fat chance) and weigh in at 2300 lbs. I end up in E with no asterisks and no power points.

 

Granted not all motors are the same but the most i seen on my 1.6 with i/h/e and MS was 105whp on a dynojet. Stock motor 150k+ miles, didnt use oil though.

 

Car made 90whp stock.

 

Cool thing is you should be able to get the car well under 2300 with the 1.6 and the car gutted.

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In all of the cases that I have examined, you are NOT close to the W/P limit for the class. In my particular case (TTD), the W/P ratio for my car is 14.82:1 and 14.25:1 is the limit. One of my competitors is classified on points and his car is right at 14.25:1.

Note that the chassis are very dissimilar in this case: a nearly 50f/50r balanced Miata with decent independent suspension all the way around vs a 60f/40r balanced Mustang with struts up front and a stick axle out back.

 

The type and layout of the chassis is a factor when determining the base class in the rules as well as custom re-classes for specific weight/power combinations.

 

Mark

 

Well, that doesn't always work out either. My car has 50/50, but an older rear suspension design than the miata. If the power figures given out on what a pro spec miata 99 motor with no restrictor can do is accurate that puts a fully prepared 99 right around 16.5. Mine ends up being 17.9, almost at the top. If I thought I could get a ton more power out of just tuning or doing the free engine mods, I might go back to points classing to try and get closer to the hp/wt, but I can't come up with any easy way that I could get my car down close to or under 17 without bumping myself into TTD. That is really my cars biggest wart, other than the steering wheel wart, is I can't see how to get it close enough to other similar cars in TTE in terms of adjusted hp/wt.

 

I mainly did a reclass because I was taking over 19 points for weight reduction alone. The reclassing allowed me to stay in TTE, get some points back on tires by having a higher base class tire size, and not take any points for mods that were not getting me a lot of horsepower. Even on points, i'd have to build a 1.8l that is putting down over 160hp to get close to 16.5:1 with the base competion weight of 2778. It is so much easier for a 99 miata to actually get to the limit of hp/wt in TTE with a starting weight of 2400pounds. I'm not sure what justifies my 318 having a competition base weight of 2778 when a miata gets 2400 and they both make the same factory rated horsepower.

 

I think the base reclass got my car closer to how the 99 miatas are classed, but a miata running on just points can get a better hp/wt, have a better suspension, and better aero. So you have to weigh it both ways when trying to figure out how you want to class the car.

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