Palmettogasman Posted April 26, 2012 Share Posted April 26, 2012 I'm going to PBIR Saturday to try out the new spec z suspension and was wondering what you guys think of my initial settings. Surprisingly the weight came in at 3040 with driver (185#) so if scales are correct I'll need ballast to 3100 for my 2004 z. Left was 51.7%, rear 48.7 % and cross was 50.4% (LR to RF). Hard to jack weight around since the rear is maxed out on the spring to the lowest ride height. Still waiting on rims due to possible rule changes so running my old RE11's on 18 inch LMGT4's. LSD installed as well. Due to my ltd experience (HPDE, karting and Chumpcar) I would prefer to start with a little understeer I think. Critique at will, I'm thick skinned. Sways=full stiff front, mid rear. Dampers= initial rec's per the KW instruct manual Toe=1/16 out front, 0 rear. Caster +8.4 LF, +8.2 RF Camber= -1.7 LF, -1.5 RF ( any suggestions to get more?) -2.5 LR, -2.1RR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dmdirks Posted April 26, 2012 Share Posted April 26, 2012 Surprisingly the weight came in at 3040 with driver (185#) so if scales are correct I'll need ballast to 3100 for my 2004 z. Palmettogasman, Sorry to hijack your thread... But what size tubing did you use on your cage, and do you you have a picture of it? Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Palmettogasman Posted April 26, 2012 Author Share Posted April 26, 2012 1.75x0.095 I believe. I'm out of town now but will check for sure when I get back. Since the roll cage weight requirement is under 3000 lbs ( sans driver and fuel per CCR) it should be ok. The cage was in the car when I bought it and they assured me it was a custom cage built to SCCA and NASA specs. However, the door bars appear to low and the rear bars are secured to the medial aspect of the shock tower brace so I suspect I will have to modify it some. Hoping to get it inspected soon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
laze1 Posted April 26, 2012 Share Posted April 26, 2012 new rules are up...some changes you should look at related to the "helper springs" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Palmettogasman Posted April 27, 2012 Author Share Posted April 27, 2012 Love the changes, time to get rid of those helper springs. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scotts300 Posted May 1, 2012 Share Posted May 1, 2012 1.75x0.095 I believe. I'm out of town now but will check for sure when I get back. Since the roll cage weight requirement is under 3000 lbs ( sans driver and fuel per CCR) it should be ok. The cage was in the car when I bought it and they assured me it was a custom cage built to SCCA and NASA specs. However, the door bars appear to low and the rear bars are secured to the medial aspect of the shock tower brace so I suspect I will have to modify it some. Hoping to get it inspected soon. Good catch on the weight. Not sure if the heavier versions (07/08) will be able to get away with that. We can certainly race our 03/04s there (under 3k pounds withOUT fuel OR driver). Likely the 05/06s as well. Not sure if I'll do mine out of 1.5/.120 or 1.75/.095, but that little catch just saved me about 50#. Woot! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paulwalshnissan Posted May 4, 2012 Share Posted May 4, 2012 Palmettogasman, if you do not mind i would also like to see some pictures of the cage. Thanks, Kelly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FastNotFurious Posted September 24, 2012 Share Posted September 24, 2012 new rules are up...some changes you should look at related to the "helper springs" I'm just installing my suspension right now. Are you guys ditching just the rear helpers or all 4? I am concerned about being able to drop the rear enough. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
laze1 Posted September 24, 2012 Share Posted September 24, 2012 I believe just the rears...and I don't know of anybody who has actually received the new spacers...post up if you have Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dcazin Posted September 25, 2012 Share Posted September 25, 2012 I believe just the rears...and I don't know of anybody who has actually received the new spacers...post up if you have We just got our kits in this week. I believe the spacer is the purple larger ring. I can take a photo and figure out how to link the photo - seems as if I can only link vs embed. Question is why remove the assist/helper spring - from the reading, it actually sounds like they really do provide some benefit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
velocitymotorsports Posted September 27, 2012 Share Posted September 27, 2012 When i did the setup on dave dirks car we removed the rear helpers and set the rear driveline angles and the front control arm angles to maximize not only axle life but also proper geometry. No difference in straight away speed having the car slightly higher. We run stock sway bar links front and rear. Front bar was full soft and shocks adjusted properly to fine tune the braking. The rear was full stiff as the rear wants to lay over to much on turn in with the spongy springs. I would love to see a rule change that would allow us to run the rear springs on the front. It would help front grip alot. Call me if you have any questions on the setup. 303-877-9189. Thanks. Luke at velocity motorsports. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
petemac Posted September 28, 2012 Share Posted September 28, 2012 When i did the setup on dave dirks car we removed the rear helpers and set the rear driveline angles and the front control arm angles to maximize not only axle life but also proper geometry. No difference in straight away speed having the car slightly higher. We run stock sway bar links front and rear. Front bar was full soft and shocks adjusted properly to fine tune the braking. The rear was full stiff as the rear wants to lay over to much on turn in with the spongy springs. I would love to see a rule change that would allow us to run the rear springs on the front. It would help front grip alot. Call me if you have any questions on the setup. 303-877-9189. Thanks. Luke at velocity motorsports. +1 I also ran my front full soft and rear full stiff. My car still pushed like a pig.... I also agree rear spring rates might be helpful on the front. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
laze1 Posted September 28, 2012 Share Posted September 28, 2012 I am not sure how to fix it, but I to have a major push problem... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dcazin Posted September 28, 2012 Share Posted September 28, 2012 I am not sure how to fix it, but I to have a major push problem... I had this in my Panoz when I was way over sprung and too much on the rear sway. So, I dropped the spring rates and removed the rear sway bar. I know we can't do anything with the springs.... What is your rear bar set on? curious, as I will be installing next weekend -- wondering, if disconnected would alleviate? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scotts300 Posted February 11, 2013 Share Posted February 11, 2013 I am not sure how to fix it, but I to have a major push problem... I had this in my Panoz when I was way over sprung and too much on the rear sway. So, I dropped the spring rates and removed the rear sway bar. I know we can't do anything with the springs.... What is your rear bar set on? curious, as I will be installing next weekend -- wondering, if disconnected would alleviate? I would normally run the rear bar on full stiff, but the WaveTrack diff wasn't able to keep up, so I had to soften it up, only making the problem worse. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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