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Battery relocated to inside car...


Falcon

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If the battery is re-located to inside the driver's compartment of the car the CCR states that:

 

"Any battery located inside the driver's compartment shall be fully covered and firmly secured to the chassis in a marine type battery case. True dry cell batteries may be mounted without a surrounding case, however a case is still recommended. Note- there is a difference between “dry cells” and “gel cells.” Gel cells still need to be mounted in a case."

 

Does an Optima battery, which is an AGM battery, qualify as a "Dry Cell" or is it something else?

 

Also from the CCR: "18.8 Battery - The battery shall be securely fastened down to the car. No Bungee cords or rubber cords may be used to function as the sole hold down mechanism. An electrically non-conductive material must cover the positive battery terminal."

 

So, would a nylon ratchet strap qualify as a sole hold down mechanism?

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Zipties hold the shuttle together. You need an inspector with lower standards.

 

 

Haha, just kidding... but I do love zipties. I bet there is at least 10lbs of them on my car.

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The exhaust manifold mount was not working?

 

I think only Odyssey batteries are dry cell (http://www.odysseybatteries.com/applications/auto.htm)

 

AGM looks like they are still "technically" wet (see the gel cell entry): http://www.batterystuff.com/kb/articles/battery-articles/battery-basics.html#3 but may be considered dry - http://www.ehow.com/about_5510631_wet-vs-dry-cell-battery.html

 

 

I have a big Odyssey in an aluminum battery box. The box is a relatively easy way to mount it and will cover up the connections and provide a little more protection.

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The exhaust manifold mount was not working?

 

I think only Odyssey batteries are dry cell (http://www.odysseybatteries.com/applications/auto.htm)

 

AGM looks like they are still "technically" wet (see the gel cell entry): http://www.batterystuff.com/kb/articles/battery-articles/battery-basics.html#3 but may be considered dry - http://www.ehow.com/about_5510631_wet-vs-dry-cell-battery.html

 

 

I have a big Odyssey in an aluminum battery box. The box is a relatively easy way to mount it and will cover up the connections and provide a little more protection.

 

Yep, that exhaust manifold mount was proving to be a problem, so I've got to do something else.

 

Odyssey advertises that they can be mounted upside down if necessary, so I'm going with it being a dry cell type.

 

I'm mounting it in the center pocket in the back of the car. I just need to find some rigid mounting points back there that don't use that composition flooring as the anchor. I need to get my fabricator involved, I think.

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There has long been debate on this. Though it should be settled in the next iteration of the CCR from what I am told.

 

The definition of a dry cell battery is one that is non-spillable and has the electrolyte fully immobilized. The primary misconception is that an AGM/Optima is a gel cell. It is not. It uses Gel Electrolyte but it is full absorbed into a fiberglass mat, therefore, immobilized.

 

Optima and other AGM batteries fit this description, and therefore can be mounted in the cab without a box. As long as they are secure.

 

That's how I have enforced it this year. But, I would not approve a nylon ratchet strap as the sole means of securing the battery to the chassis. Although it is a nice secondary means.

 

Chad M

Cheif of Tech MW

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There has long been debate on this. Though it should be settled in the next iteration of the CCR from what I am told.

 

The definition of a dry cell battery is one that is non-spillable and has the electrolyte fully immobilized. The primary misconception is that an AGM/Optima is a gel cell. It is not. It uses Gel Electrolyte but it is full absorbed into a fiberglass mat, therefore, immobilized.

 

Optima and other AGM batteries fit this description, and therefore can be mounted in the cab without a box. As long as they are secure.

 

That's how I have enforced it this year. But, I would not approve a nylon ratchet strap as the sole means of securing the battery to the chassis. Although it is a nice secondary means.

 

Chad M

Cheif of Tech MW

 

Thanks for the reply.

 

I can fabricate a metal hold down mechanism.

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  • 2 weeks later...
Where are you putting it? I've already got a small Odyssey and was thinking of putting it in the RR storage bin area while I'm redoing the car.

 

Brian, I used the middle compartment. I posted pix over on the CF.

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Where are you putting it? I've already got a small Odyssey and was thinking of putting it in the RR storage bin area while I'm redoing the car.

 

Brian, I used the middle compartment. I posted pix over on the CF.

I've already got that real estate used for the cool-shirt cooler and my fire bottle. Will check out your pics.

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Where are you putting it? I've already got a small Odyssey and was thinking of putting it in the RR storage bin area while I'm redoing the car.

 

Brian, I used the middle compartment. I posted pix over on the CF.

I've already got that real estate used for the cool-shirt cooler and my fire bottle. Will check out your pics.

 

I will put the Cool Shirt box over the top of the battery when I use it. He welded a tab to the battery case and the cross bar of cage so that I can ratchet strap the box down.

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Have you corner weighted the car? The battery location might serve better located in the right rear to help defer the extra weight of the typically heavy left front with a driver and steering componets.

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Maybe for a drag racer but for a car thats road raced locating as much of the weight between the axles will help the car rotate better.

Not really... it all comes down to corner weights. Dirt Surfer is correct in that most cars are nose heavy and usually driver's side heavy. Moving as much weight to the RR as possible can compensate for this and get the corner weights optimized.

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Not really? So do the laws of physics go out the window if a car has been corner weighted?

Let me put it another way. If the car is heavy in the LF and light in the RR (as most cars are) you want to add weight to the RR of the car and/or move weight from the LF to RR. Putting the weight in the center rear of the car would not be as optimal as putting it in the RR. This is all situational depending on the initial starting point of the car in question.

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I should've been more clear, don't move the battery to the center of the rear axle. Try to locate it on the right side of the vehicle between the front and rear axles.

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I should've been more clear, don't move the battery to the center of the rear axle. Try to locate it on the right side of the vehicle between the front and rear axles.

Ahh... you meant longitudinally. This would work if you could remove weight from the LF of the car. Plus, many of us like to keep the ability to easily install a passenger seat from time to time.

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Have you corner weighted the car? The battery location might serve better located in the right rear to help defer the extra weight of the typically heavy left front with a driver and steering componets.

 

Yes, the car was corner weighted before moving the battery. We'll corner weight it again now that it's been moved.

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