BigKeyserSoze Posted January 6, 2013 Share Posted January 6, 2013 The car is an 88 Mustang. I just scaled it, and the LF/RR balance is 51.5%, and I need to fix that. So I can either raise the right front or raise the left rear (or lower the LF or RR, I get that). The question is, other than ride height, does it matter which adjustment I make? I guess here is my question in a different way. All else equal, I'd like to add more weight to the rear than the front, so should I jack the left rear to accomplish that. If I jack the left rear two turns, that would add x pounds to the left rear, and y pounds to the front right. If, instead of doing that, I jack the front right the same two turns, would the x and y numbers be the same as if I did it to the back, or if I jack the front, would it look like y+20 pounds, and x-20 pounds? Any thoughts would be appreciated. The car also has a terrible 55% front, 45% rear bias. I'm aware that weight jacking won't fix that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mbuskuhl Posted January 7, 2013 Share Posted January 7, 2013 You are supposed to make adjustments at all 4 corners to get it to 50% cross weight otherwise you are going to screw up the ride height. If you are “wedged” (more than 50%) you need to do the following. Up on the RR & LF Down on the LR & RF As for the front/rear bias, look at what you can relocate to the rear and what can be lightened in the front. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UBR Posted January 7, 2013 Share Posted January 7, 2013 I have a 90 Mustang. Welcome to nose heavy beasts. You actually can shift some weight to the rear by adjusting cross weight. I know the "books" say you can't, but get the car on the scales and play with it. Also consider side weights. All my sheets are at the shop, but I'm a little better on F/R weight, but you will always be nose heavy unless you put a lot of ballast in the rear bumper. My procedure is to set the ride heights first. I have metal bar stock cut to the proper length. Makes for an easy pass/fail process. Then with the car on the scales, I'll put 2 turns on a single spinner (corner) and see what it did. You will see changes in all 4 corners. For your question below, I've never had the same number of spins on 2 different corners yield the same weight change (x+20 = y+20) As for which corner (or corners) to spin? The ultimate goal is to keep the ride heights static or as close to where they should be. My Fox has Griggs on the front. His sheets say where to measure and what height to set. My rear is a custom 3 link. We played (tested) different ride heights and settled into where we are now. If I had a full day of open track time, I'd do some real testing and pin it down more than "This feels OK". It's also easy to get everything really screwed up. I've had it so messed up that I went back and reset the ride heights back to baseline and started all over. Also, don't forget to unhook the sway bars. You get really goofy responses otherwise. Don't ask how I know. j Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Ed M. Posted January 7, 2013 Members Share Posted January 7, 2013 I have a 90 Mustang. Welcome to nose heavy beasts. You actually can shift some weight to the rear by adjusting cross weight. I know the "books" say you can't, but get the car on the scales and play with it. Also consider side weights. All my sheets are at the shop, but I'm a little better on F/R weight, but you will always be nose heavy unless you put a lot of ballast in the rear bumper. My procedure is to set the ride heights first. I have metal bar stock cut to the proper length. Makes for an easy pass/fail process. Then with the car on the scales, I'll put 2 turns on a single spinner (corner) and see what it did. You will see changes in all 4 corners. For your question below, I've never had the same number of spins on 2 different corners yield the same weight change (x+20 = y+20) As for which corner (or corners) to spin? The ultimate goal is to keep the ride heights static or as close to where they should be. My Fox has Griggs on the front. His sheets say where to measure and what height to set. My rear is a custom 3 link. We played (tested) different ride heights and settled into where we are now. If I had a full day of open track time, I'd do some real testing and pin it down more than "This feels OK". It's also easy to get everything really screwed up. I've had it so messed up that I went back and reset the ride heights back to baseline and started all over. Also, don't forget to unhook the sway bars. You get really goofy responses otherwise. Don't ask how I know. j +1. Set your desired ride height then go from there... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigKeyserSoze Posted January 10, 2013 Author Share Posted January 10, 2013 So where is the best place to measure ride height from on a fox? Is there any general consensus on a good ride height to start at? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grizlbits Posted January 10, 2013 Share Posted January 10, 2013 So where is the best place to measure ride height from on a fox? Is there any general consensus on a good ride height to start at? Stay within the rules as low as you can go with some tolerance for variation in the tech shed. However, depending on your front suspension and spindles, too low may has some very funky requirements trying to get your bump steer set. If you slam it down, the bump steer may get difficult to achieve without a large shim stack, which may comprimise the rigidity of the single sheer bolt on the spindle. Again, this all depends on your front geometry. Good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UBR Posted January 10, 2013 Share Posted January 10, 2013 So where is the best place to measure ride height from on a fox? On the front, I measure where the K-frame attaches to the frame rail below the firewall. Only because that's where Griggs says to measure and his K-frame instructions give you a measurement. On the rear, I looked for a consistent place right to left. I finally went with the method we used on latemodels. Top of axel tube to the frame rail immediately inside of the shock mount bracket. j Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marshallmosty Posted January 11, 2013 Share Posted January 11, 2013 For AI/CMC, there are only 2 real good areas on a FOX. 1st is from the K-member attachement back to about the transmission crossmember area (front subframe) and the other picks up at the rear torque box and all the way back to where it turns up forward of the rear axle. Any of these areas need to meet the 5" requirement. My guage is a few wooden blocks screwed together with a longer block for the handle... Low tech, but functional and works for quick checks. We can split hairs with tape measures if we want. If it slides under, no further review is required. Doesn't fit means we get down to the nat's ass.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reds Posted January 18, 2013 Share Posted January 18, 2013 Marshal, don't the rules state that ride height is only taken at the rockers? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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