snakebit Posted February 4, 2013 Share Posted February 4, 2013 Putting a plan together to put a 302 based motor in my 2000 GT. Looking for some input from you guys who've done this. I know what I'm going to do for motor and k-member, so I'm fine in that area, but... Transmission? T5? TKO600? Richmond RR 5speed? Fuel delivery details? Headers for a 94/95 fit I assume? ? John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UBR Posted February 5, 2013 Share Posted February 5, 2013 We have 302 based (FRPP Boss block 347s) in both our Mustangs. A Fox and a S197. Your SN95 should be pretty straight forward since they came with pushrod motors in their early life. If you are making AI level HP, I wouldn't consider a T5. It won't last. We run Tremec TKO 600s. BBK makes some nice headers that will work fine. We run them on both our cars, although the S197s have been modified. Any fuel system you want can be made to work. The Fox runs Trickflow fuel injection. The S197 has a carb. I prefer the F.I. setup because it is easier to tune and will adjust for temperature, altitude and other things. It is heavier and some say carbs are more reliable. Our F.I. has been more reliable from a fuel stand point. Both cars run MSD ignition boxes. Simple, reliable. j Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snakebit Posted February 6, 2013 Author Share Posted February 6, 2013 Thanks Jim, I'm not trying to reinvent the wheel or anything. Just looking for some input. Mainly with tranny choices. I have an aluminum block mod motor, cobra (kellogg) forged crank, and t56 sitting in my shop right now. My original intention was to build a 3.7 bore 2v (trick flow heads). One of my goals was to get as close as close to a 50/50 balance as I could. That combo would take 50-60 lbs off the nose. I'm not so sure that the sacrifice of torque is worth the weight savings. I'm currently about 1840/1570. Thats stock iron block 2v with t45, Cobra IRS, full tank and my 220 lbs. Everything under the hood is still there, as well as all wiring, stock dash and glass. One thing is for sure, this 261HP motor has to go. John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Ed M. Posted February 6, 2013 Members Share Posted February 6, 2013 You'll also need to address the "return" vs "returnLESS" fuel system. IIRC, your 2000 came with a returnLESS system and if you go with a FI push-rod motor, I'd recommend (or you may have to) going to a return style system. Just something else to remember/consider... Good luck! Ed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
99cobra2881 Posted February 6, 2013 Share Posted February 6, 2013 Definitely get rid of the returnless system, I eventually will move away from it as well but for now Im hell bent on band aiding it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D Algozine Posted February 6, 2013 Share Posted February 6, 2013 Stock 302 blocks are prone to cracking at the #2 main with sustained RPM at AI power levels. I would look at the Boss 302 block or a 351 block if you want to go push rod engine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rpoz27 Posted February 7, 2013 Share Posted February 7, 2013 Thanks Jim,I'm not trying to reinvent the wheel or anything. Just looking for some input. Mainly with tranny choices. I have an aluminum block mod motor, cobra (kellogg) forged crank, and t56 sitting in my shop right now. My original intention was to build a 3.7 bore 2v (trick flow heads). One of my goals was to get as close as close to a 50/50 balance as I could. That combo would take 50-60 lbs off the nose. I'm not so sure that the sacrifice of torque is worth the weight savings. I'm currently about 1840/1570. Thats stock iron block 2v with t45, Cobra IRS, full tank and my 220 lbs. Everything under the hood is still there, as well as all wiring, stock dash and glass. One thing is for sure, this 261HP motor has to go. John Stick with this plan to build the Mod motor....you will be fine and if built right will last MANY seasons. Mine lasted 6 years and is going into a drag car untouched. I'm in the process of putting a coyote motor in the car now...it was cheaper than going to a 351 based motor because most of the driveline and suspension parts carry over. going to a 302 is going to cost you a fortune in small stuff that has to get swapped out from k-members to bell housings to fuel system to electronics to etc..... don't know what your HP needs are but I made 325/340 with stock heads and Cushman Stage 2 N/A cams. Small combo actually. TFS heads are only needed if you have to get over 350rwhp. Save your money, build the big bore bottom end, cleanup your heads and work the combo. Get past the Mod motor haters, have a plan and build it right. It should last you several seasons if you take care of it. Matt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wstukas Posted February 8, 2013 Share Posted February 8, 2013 Thanks Jim,I'm not trying to reinvent the wheel or anything. Just looking for some input. Mainly with tranny choices. I have an aluminum block mod motor, cobra (kellogg) forged crank, and t56 sitting in my shop right now. My original intention was to build a 3.7 bore 2v (trick flow heads). One of my goals was to get as close as close to a 50/50 balance as I could. That combo would take 50-60 lbs off the nose. I'm not so sure that the sacrifice of torque is worth the weight savings. I'm currently about 1840/1570. Thats stock iron block 2v with t45, Cobra IRS, full tank and my 220 lbs. Everything under the hood is still there, as well as all wiring, stock dash and glass. One thing is for sure, this 261HP motor has to go. John I won't pretend to know much of anything about ford powerplants, but any combo that can take 50-60 lbs off the nose seems worth pursuing. Our engine machinist at work has done many mod motors, I'll see if I can get some input from him on getting one to survive the rigors of road racing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
99cobra2881 Posted February 8, 2013 Share Posted February 8, 2013 If using a modular aluminum block you really should get the upgraded tensioner dowels. Pm username rtusnake over on modularfords.com he makes these and theyre a wise investment. Good info in this thread. http://www.modularfords.com/threads/188004-Cobra-Engineering-Chain-Tensioner-Pivot-Installation-Fixture I broke the passenger side tensioner dowel off on my mod motor and another member here broke them at mid-o. Its a bad design by Ford to have 6mm threads on an 8mm dowel. The tensioner guides need to be reamed out to fit the larger dowels. The bosses on the block for the dowels will also need to be drilled and tapped to fit the larger "vitamin c" dowels. The iron blocks with the press in dowels dont seem to suffer from this issue. I installed the upgraded dowels on my mod motor and they won't be breaking again any time soon. With SOHC GT engines lasting at AI power with the cast crank, I think my next build will use an 8 bolt cast GT crank. Its something like 8 lbs lighter than the forged crank. Internet numbers have said its good to 600 HP. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snakebit Posted February 12, 2013 Author Share Posted February 12, 2013 Thanks for all the input guys...still on the fence. John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.