fast_frank_d Posted March 14, 2013 Share Posted March 14, 2013 Hello All, I run a cobra brake setup in HPDE, but I thought you guys would know best. Have you guys had issues with warping rotor hats on 1-piece rotors? After a weekend of driving, I find my steering wheel feels like I am driving on railroad ties, and the wheels don't spin true. I discovered that the rotor mounting surface goes convex, and so my wheel spacer starts sitting crooked, and the wheel wobbles. This just started doing this last few track weekends. Thoughts? Thanks! Frank Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UBR Posted March 14, 2013 Share Posted March 14, 2013 I haven't warped the hats. When I was running the Cobra parts, I'd heat crack the rotors. Are you running brake ducts? Look at it this way. You are probably getting better in HPDE and running harder more often. Bad news is... you're doing better at HPDE and running harder... and learning that going faster cost more money. Seriously though, Get some cooling ducts if you don't already and try some better rotors. We used to get some from Brembo that would last most of a season, but I heard they don't make them anymore. j Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fast_frank_d Posted March 14, 2013 Author Share Posted March 14, 2013 Thanks for the reply, I do run brake cooling ducts and generally don't have boiling/fade issues (only 1 time at Road ATL), but maybe I am missing something? I do crack rotors after about 3-4 weekends, and I am ok with that, but the warping after 1 weekend, is killing me! Frank Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kbrew8991 Posted March 14, 2013 Share Posted March 14, 2013 it's doing all that stuff from heat - brake ducting reduces heat - so.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rehagen Racing Posted March 14, 2013 Share Posted March 14, 2013 What brand of rotor are you using? That can play into it as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ralph sparveri Posted March 14, 2013 Share Posted March 14, 2013 run ducts to center of back side of rotor so they can pull air also use backing plates ,probley need to do custom work , run good rotors ,bring rotor and pads up to proper tourqe heat range before leaning hard on them , thats why we warm our brakes up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snakebit Posted March 15, 2013 Share Posted March 15, 2013 After I come off track, I let the car sit for a few minutes then push it forward or backwards 3-4 feet. After a few more minutes of cooling I do it again. Each time, making sure the brake calipers are covering a different portion of the rotor. My theory is the caliper is hindering the rotor from cooling uniformly, causing accelerated cracking. It seems to help extend my rotor life. John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Al Watson Posted March 15, 2013 Share Posted March 15, 2013 like mentioned above make sure those brake ducts blow air on the center of the rotor, if some air hits the inside face of the rotor it will cool the inside more than the outside and warp or crack them. also look at the spacers, make sure they are a decent kind not some junk pepbouys item, the OD should be as wide as the hub and they should be hub/wheel centric. if the center part of the rotor is coning that tells me there is some issue with the spacer/hub/wheel mating area. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fast_frank_d Posted March 17, 2013 Author Share Posted March 17, 2013 Thanks for everyone's suggestions. I will take a look at my setup to see if I have something aligned wrong. It might be my spacers too, I've had them awhile, not sure where I got them. Thanks, Frank Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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