Jeremymoen Posted August 21, 2013 Share Posted August 21, 2013 Hey all, I have weight jackers installed through the rear frame rails on my third gen Camaro. I believe this was done back in it's SCCA A Sedan days. I understand the rule says that the frame rails may not be modified for this purpose. It seems the intent of this rule is to keep from having modifications that may affect the safety of the vehicle, or also make it more difficult to keep the playing field even / keep "costs" down?. If I can accomplish the same thing using adjusters on the bottom, does it really matter if they go through the frame to the top side? You can see the left side one in this picture (at the right, just above the rear cage bar). I guess I'd argue the result is the same with the difference of the hole. Is there a perceived advantage with the adjuster through the frame? If this is non-negotiable, what's the best option to get legal again without a lot of fab work and money spent? The threaded part is welded to the bottom of the frame, and there's just a simple hole in the top. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeremymoen Posted August 23, 2013 Author Share Posted August 23, 2013 What, Was i something I said?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Al Watson Posted August 24, 2013 Share Posted August 24, 2013 Jeremy. Unfortunately weight jackers thru the frame are not legal. I'm not sure what your best option to fix this is but if you remove the jacker and weld up the frame hole and grind it smooth you'll be legal again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wstukas Posted August 24, 2013 Share Posted August 24, 2013 cut off the welded on bits and weld the holes in the frame, and run coilovers in the back. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeremymoen Posted August 28, 2013 Author Share Posted August 28, 2013 Ok thanks for the info and ideas guys Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cheyne Posted September 7, 2013 Share Posted September 7, 2013 Do the holes have to be welded shut or can they be covered with sheet metal that is riveted in or put a bolt though the hold to plug it up? I plan on doing races in two series next year. One requires me to run springs in the stock location on the rear hence the weight jackers and over here I can run coil overs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Al Watson Posted September 7, 2013 Share Posted September 7, 2013 Unfortunately the holes need to be welded and grinded so the frame is back to oe. If the holes are still there than the frame is still not oe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
T&A Racing Posted September 9, 2013 Share Posted September 9, 2013 If your talking about the holes in the floor, those can be covered with sheet metal and rivets or anything similar. The frame is a different issue I guess. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeremymoen Posted September 10, 2013 Author Share Posted September 10, 2013 I am going to use the existing weight jack (1" OD) threaded rod as the "static' piece in the setup. So the rod will be threaded into a nut that is welded to the frame (it's there already), and the spring cup will have a nut added to it. So basically I'll just twist the spring cup to adjust ride height (from under the car) as opposed to having the adjuster through the frame and adjustable from up top. Really a pretty simple change. I think it will work just fine, but haven't tested it yet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nape Posted September 10, 2013 Share Posted September 10, 2013 Sounds good but make sure you have a way to lock in the spring cup so it doesn't rotate (jam nut, set screw, etc). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeremymoen Posted October 26, 2013 Author Share Posted October 26, 2013 This change is done now. Seems to be fine. I swapped to a stiffer spring that is also 2" shorter than the old, and still found that I basically needed no spacer between the spring cup and frame to get the ride height I needed. So, I ended up with a washer on one side just to set the corner weight, and that's it. I will have the nuts along just in case I need to swap back to a different spring or something. I think that should take care of it. Happy it's over with, and wasn't too difficult (and basically cost nothing). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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