marshallmosty Posted October 14, 2013 Posted October 14, 2013 (edited) All, I'm doing another batch of SN95 (94-04) Hubs based on the following thread: http://www.aicmctexas.com/main/showthread.php?4138-How-to-regrease-SN95-hubs&highlight=regrease These are from O'Reilley's and are their most expensive offering (Precision Bearing). These will come with ARP studs and AmsOil racing grease. Here is the breakdown for cost. http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/grease/dominator-synthetic-racing-grease/ Hub: $75 - actual cost (after tax) PN: 513115 http://images.oreillyauto.com/parts/img/medium/pre/dxnj_513115_fro.jpg Studs: $20 - $14 plus $6 shipping from Summit http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ar...7703/overview/ These are rear studs, but hubs are reamed (39/64") for this knurl size Drill for studs: $15 - my cost at the machinist Disassemble, grease, reassemble and install studs: $25 - my labor and materials Total: $135 per hub. I have been able to get 3-4 seasons out of a set of hubs (15+ events). Will ship (you cover actual Fed-EX or UPS ground shipping costs). Edited October 16, 2013 by Guest Quote
b_tone Posted October 16, 2013 Posted October 16, 2013 Your links are all dead.... Also, the ARP 7703s - aren't they for the rear? Quote
marshallmosty Posted October 16, 2013 Author Posted October 16, 2013 Links fixed. The studs are rears which require the hubs to be reamed to 39/64". Quote
TurboShortBus Posted November 18, 2013 Posted November 18, 2013 Why not use the 3" Moroso studs that press right in and do not require reaming the hubs? I can get the part number tonight if you want it. Did you get the disassembly tool from CMCParts.com when it was around, or do you use something else? Mark Quote
marshallmosty Posted November 19, 2013 Author Posted November 19, 2013 Why not use the 3" Moroso studs that press right in and do not require reaming the hubs? I can get the part number tonight if you want it. Did you get the disassembly tool from CMCParts.com when it was around, or do you use something else? Mark Mark, I have the PN of the ARP stud that Baer uses in their kits. From the cost prospective, it's just about equal, so I probably won't drill anymore going forward. For disassembly, I just used a flat blad screwdriver on the outer race and then a 1 1/8" socket to tap out the inner race. The CMCparts.com part is cool, but not the only way to skin the cat. Quote
realspeeddan Posted February 21, 2015 Posted February 21, 2015 Link to the original article is dead. Can you sumarize what was done as far as regreasing them? Are you doing any more of these? Quote
Members Marshall M. Posted February 23, 2015 Members Posted February 23, 2015 Link to the original article is dead. Can you sumarize what was done as far as regreasing them? Are you doing any more of these? I posted to a new thread. My old ID isn't working for me. Quote
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