Jump to content

what GTS category would best suit this car?


autodoctor911

Recommended Posts

900 kilo = 1980 lbs.

Add a driver @ 180 lbs = 2160 lbs

Add 2 gallons of gas (after session) = 2172 lbs

 

(400 hp + 408 lb/ft) / 2 = 404 (this assumes these are at-the-wheel numbers)

 

2172 / 404 = 5.38

 

That's GTSU (not surprisingly)

 

The least weight you could add to make it into GTS5 would be 494 lbs (and you'd have to run on DOT tires). Swap out the motor for something with a lot less power and you'd have something.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Scott, 408 NM = roughly 300 lb/ft.

 

This doesn't change the equation much, because his HP is now higher than TQ.

 

If it a flywheel number, and he's making 320-340 at the rear wheels, this would get him right around GTS-5 numbers (at the lower end of the HP range)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Wow, cool car...

 

Probably a detune into 5 or even 4 would at least give you someone to race against. Haven't seen too many U cars running anywhere anymore.

 

Also the control arm puts an albeit large heim joint (looks like a 3/4) in bending which isn't a great idea.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

I figured it is probably making just under 300 lbft, and as a result about 300HP by about 5500rpm, so why not limit it to that from there on up to redline with throttle mapping, for a perfectly flat HP graph across the rpm range used, then you could run it at 2700 lbs with a 200lb driver and about 500lbs of ballast right in front of the rear axle in gts4 with slicks.

 

On second thought, instead of that much ballast, maybe some E46 330ix parts, or some Ford rallycar AWD parts could be used to make up the weight.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Wow, cool car...

 

Also the control arm puts an albeit large heim joint (looks like a 3/4) in bending which isn't a great idea.

 

 

I know that they are definitely not nearly as strong in bending, so the outer is usually left all the way screwed in, and adjustments made at the inner. I suppose a welded on cup, and a mono-ball insert would be a little stronger and maybe lighter too. I worry more about the bending moment on the control arm with the radius rod that far back from the outer joint, but it's either that or a curved radius rod if you want the steering angle available with wide tires and a lot of wheel offset(to get a good steering axis placement).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...