jesm Posted November 27, 2012 Share Posted November 27, 2012 My first 5.0 rebuild/upgrade approaches. Is the Explorer intake better than the stock intake? How different are the hookups on the Explorer intake vs. the stock HO setup? Will the '89 mass air computer see it like its the old setup? I am very new to ford fuel injection. (I know- throw a carb on it, right?) Thanks in advance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jesm Posted November 27, 2012 Author Share Posted November 27, 2012 I probably should be on a Ford motor forum with this question, but I found a good link with a power comparison to the Cobra intake and the GT40 intake. Just wish it has some pics http://www.allfordmustangs.com/forums/5-0l-tech/170993-official-explorer-gt40-cobra-intake-thread.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MHISSTC Posted November 27, 2012 Share Posted November 27, 2012 The Explorer intake is better than the stock 5.0 H.O. intake and is very nearly identical internally to the '93 Cobra intake. It's been a while since I've looked into it, but if I'm remembering correctly, *I think* the differences in the early vs. late intakes had something to do with the the vacuum ports and EGR setup. But, basically yes, the Explorer intake should bolt up in place of the H.O. intake. I can't remember what the size of the throttle body is on the Explorer vs. the '93 Cobra, but I'm pretty sure it's bigger than the H.O. unit. Which throttle body are you planning on using? You will be fine with the MAF setup. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jesm Posted February 10, 2013 Author Share Posted February 10, 2013 GT40P heads, Explorer intake, 95 Cobra cam in the speed density 88 STang now. Looks great, and the hood actually closed. Problem is it starts and idles fine, but if you gas it, it backfires out and won't restart. The distributor doesn't have a spout connector port- it's blanked off with a plug and a screw. It also won't go down the last 1/16" inch into the motor. There is a connector with one wire that looks like a spout connector right there and disconnected. Not sure how to set the base timing if there is no spout to disconnect. Could it be the wrong distributor? Could there be issues with distributor height and the Explorer intake? Will the 95 Cobra cam be compatible with the 88 SD computer? The suspense is killing me, because both my legs are injured and I can't work on it. Any way to ID the distributor? What are the minimal vaccuum hookups? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
37Stang Posted February 11, 2013 Share Posted February 11, 2013 GT40P heads, Explorer intake, 95 Cobra cam in the speed density 88 STang now. Looks great, and the hood actually closed. Problem is it starts and idles fine, but if you gas it, it backfires out and won't restart. The distributor doesn't have a spout connector port- it's blanked off with a plug and a screw. It also won't go down the last 1/16" inch into the motor. There is a connector with one wire that looks like a spout connector right there and disconnected. Not sure how to set the base timing if there is no spout to disconnect. Could it be the wrong distributor? Could there be issues with distributor height and the Explorer intake? Will the 95 Cobra cam be compatible with the 88 SD computer? The suspense is killing me, because both my legs are injured and I can't work on it. Any way to ID the distributor? What are the minimal vaccuum hookups? Which oil pump driveshaft are you using? There are different length shafts for SBF's. Off the top of my head I can't recall the different lengths. I have had distributors be difficult to install in the past even with the correct length shaft. Sometimes you will get a bur on the distributor housing and it will keep it from seating. I would not run the engine any more until you figure out what is going on with the distributor. If the distributor is not seated correctly you will not have the correct mesh with the cam gear. I would cut the oil filter open and see if any damage has been done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jesm Posted February 11, 2013 Author Share Posted February 11, 2013 Its been run for less than a minute, so I doubt it could be chewed up. I'll pull it out and inspect it. As for the driveshaft: I used a Melling kit for the SBF that came with a hardened pump driveshaft. No mention of different lengths. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mel-m68hv/applications. Guess I'll be calling Melling tomorrow. I'd hate to pull that motor to get the pump out though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
37Stang Posted February 11, 2013 Share Posted February 11, 2013 Its been run for less than a minute, so I doubt it could be chewed up. I'll pull it out and inspect it. As for the driveshaft: I used a Melling kit for the SBF that came with a hardened pump driveshaft. No mention of different lengths. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mel-m68hv/applications. Guess I'll be calling Melling tomorrow. I'd hate to pull that motor to get the pump out though. When Ford went to the TFI distributor the distributor shaft is longer and requires a shorter shaft by ~.125. FRPP used to sell two different shafts for the 8.2 deck engines, an "A302" shaft and a "B302" shaft with the "B302" being the shorter of the two. I did a quick search and it appears FRPP now only sells the shorter "B302" shaft and in the description states it can be used on EFI or non-EFI applications. As you suggested, a call to Melling should have you straightened out. Worst case you will have to pull the pump and grind some off of the shaft. If you are unlucky and have to pull the pump back out make sure you have some "float" in the pump shaft with the distributor installed. If there is no "float" with the pump shaft it will put pressure on the pump and distributor gear. Cut your filter open for an inspection. Even if the gear looks fine it is always a good idea to cut the filter so you can get an idea of what is going on. If there is some junk in there don't panic as new builds will always put off some metal. As long as there are no big flakes and minimal magnetic material you should be fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jesm Posted February 11, 2013 Author Share Posted February 11, 2013 So I can pull the pump without pulling the motor? It doesn't look possible. "Float" is end play on the shaft? Thanks for the help, btw. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jesm Posted February 11, 2013 Author Share Posted February 11, 2013 BTW- It's got a Canton road race pan on it and it was a tight fit! http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ctr-15-644 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
37Stang Posted February 11, 2013 Share Posted February 11, 2013 So I can pull the pump without pulling the motor? It doesn't look possible. "Float" is end play on the shaft? Thanks for the help, btw. I don't know if you can pull the pan without pulling the motor. It would be tough and probably much easier to just pull the motor. I pulled a trans pan on a C4 transmission a couple of years ago to do some work on the valve body - NEVER again!!! It took three times as long as if I had just pulled the motor and trans and the aggravation of having trans fluid in my face, eyes and hair was annoying. Yes, "float" is end play on the shaft. With the oil pump bolted in and the distributor installed just make sure you have some play in the shaft. You can use a magnet on the pump to move it up and down as it is sometimes hard to get your hands on it with the rotating assembly installed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jesm Posted February 11, 2013 Author Share Posted February 11, 2013 Sometimes shortcuts aren't- I agree. I'm going to fight it a bit more before I pull the motor though. Thanks for the info Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
37Stang Posted February 11, 2013 Share Posted February 11, 2013 Sometimes shortcuts aren't- I agree. I'm going to fight it a bit more before I pull the motor though. Thanks for the info Good luck with it and let us know how it turns out. You may be able to unbolt the motor mounts and trans mount and just lift the motor up enough with a cherry picker to slide the pan off if you can get it high enough to get past the pick up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jesm Posted February 11, 2013 Author Share Posted February 11, 2013 Will do. Knee surgery this week, so although I am itching to figure it out, I am kinda hobbled. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
37Stang Posted February 11, 2013 Share Posted February 11, 2013 Will do. Knee surgery this week, so although I am itching to figure it out, I am kinda hobbled. Ouch!!! is the surgeon able to do what needs to be done with an arthroscopy procedure? I have had both of mine done and the right one done twice. Both in high school due to football and right one the second time in college. The second time with the right knee the spike on my cleat caught on the rubber of the pitching mound while turning to do a pick off move. I really thought I tore it up that time. All three times I was back running the following week after the surgeries. Of course, that was many, many years ago... LOL!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jesm Posted February 11, 2013 Author Share Posted February 11, 2013 It's arthroscopic, so I should be up again quickly. Nov. 17 I was running to get a cone of an autocross track. Grabbed it and headed off track. The sudden, twisting stop tore the meniscus. Not a great day since I also put my Viper about 60 ft off track backwards in a muddy Pungo marsh. Dang thing swaps ends too easy. Then two weeks ago I was trying to push this CMC car into the trailer because it wouldn't run. My left foot plantar fascia ruptured with a pop because I was trying not to use my bad knee. Now there's something else in that foot. MRI on that too. Getting old sucks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
37Stang Posted February 11, 2013 Share Posted February 11, 2013 It's arthroscopic, so I should be up again quickly. Nov. 17 I was running to get a cone of an autocross track. Grabbed it and headed off track. The sudden, twisting stop tore the meniscus. Not a great day since I also put my Viper about 60 ft off track backwards in a muddy Pungo marsh. Dang thing swaps ends too easy. Then two weeks ago I was trying to push this CMC car into the trailer because it wouldn't run. My left foot plantar fascia ruptured with a pop because I was trying not to use my bad knee. Now there's something else in that foot. MRI on that too. Getting old sucks. That sounds like a bad day. The meniscus shouldn't be too bad. Getting old does suck, tell me about it. Good luck with the surgery and I hope all goes well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DrC Posted February 13, 2013 Share Posted February 13, 2013 After you installed the oil pan did you have a problem getting you clutch cable to line up with the hole in the Bellhousing and the clutch fork? Looks like I am going to get a new one cut it and make it longer to line up better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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