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No spark on 95 CMC Mustang 5.0 w/carb and Duraspark setup


The Chazz

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Have tested the coil that came on it, along with a backup coil, and both checkout good.

 

Below are pics of the setup. I notice it did blow a 30amp fuse next to the big silver 14v 30 amp fuse. However, I have since replaced it and still no spark.

 

Any ideas? Thanks!

 

 

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Anyone?

 

The grey box seems impossible to pull off, like it has been "glued" in place. I've been told they don't typically go bad.

 

I have checked all my fuses and they are good.....the only one I'm curious about is the silver 14v 30amp relay. Would that go bad?

 

Thanks. Would like to get this thing to the track someday.

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Did you check for voltage at the coil, with the ignition on? Does it have an EFI coil or a carb coil? How are you testing for no spark? Have you tried diagnostics on the distributor?

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Did you check for voltage at the coil, with the ignition on? Does it have an EFI coil or a carb coil? How are you testing for no spark? Have you tried diagnostics on the distributor?

 

Replaced the grey ignition box.....with an 85. It worked great for about 15 minutes. Now, it will not produce spark again.

 

Coils are for a carb, and tested perfectly (I have a spare as well).

 

Would a bad distributor cause the ignition module to freak out and fry itself?

 

Again, I just swapped the grey cdi box with a new one from O'Reilly's....andit worked great for 15 minutes. Then cut off again.

 

Thank you for your help.

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So after 15 minutes the sparkbox is dead? Any hot spots on the bottom side? First step would be making sure everything is wired correctly.

 

Duraspark2-diagram.gif

 

Start with verifying your harness since it looks to be home-made, you could have a short or bad connection somewhere. Your spark box grounds through the distributor connection so it is possible that could be an issue, but pretty unlikely. It's worth noting that a spare distributor is worth having around at the track, I almost buy everything in 2's now

 

I went through a lot of teething issues with my Duraspark 2 setup and we eventually landed on the culprit being that the oil-filled coil with a ballast resistor simply isn't up to the task of track duty under hood temperatures and sustained load. An EFI ceramic coil, removing the ballast resistor from a brand-new painless harness and I haven't had any issues since.

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I have felt almost every connection and looked at them, they all seem like-new and in great condition.

 

Could a bad ballast resister cause issues?

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If aschroder's ballast resistor is removed, prolly not.

 

I would check/replace the ignition coil. Verify the tach signal 'green' wire and that 'black' ground.

 

Definitely go with the EFI coil if you don't already have one. Should be a square coil like in the diagram rather than the cylinder shaped coil.

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If aschroder's ballast resistor is removed, prolly not.

 

I would check/replace the ignition coil. Verify the tach signal 'green' wire and that 'black' ground.

 

Definitely go with the EFI coil if you don't already have one. Should be a square coil like in the diagram rather than the cylinder shaped coil.

 

I noticed the EFI coil doesnt seem to have the tach plug that my carb one does.

 

How do i rewire for the tach?

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