t500hps Posted December 16, 2014 Share Posted December 16, 2014 (edited) Longevity? I bought a competitive 4.6l mustang to start CMC in 2012 and am running well. Using the cobra/pbr calipers and Carbotech pads I'm stopping with the leaders but pads and white box rotors only last one full weekend. For those that have used PBRs and switched, what are you using now and how much longer are the pads/rotors lasting? Any advice for a relative rookie? Edited February 11, 2015 by Guest Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BADVENM Posted December 16, 2014 Share Posted December 16, 2014 On my Fox Mustang I'm using Duralast rotors (part #54087) with the Cobra calipers. I was using Carbotech pads until about 3 years ago, now using Hawk and LOVE them! My pads can usually last a full season, maybe a tad less. As far as the rotors, I'm now getting at least a full season out of them, I remember a few years ago going through 2 sets a season. One thing we do now is after a race, warmup, qual, etc (when the car is in the pits) is push the car about 5 feet or so every 5 or 10 minutes, that way the car isn't sitting in one spot for a long time right after a session. All that heat gets dissipated a bit more evenly and not focused on one spot on the rotors. I think that's helped with the rotors longevity. Issues we had were with the fronts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
t500hps Posted December 16, 2014 Author Share Posted December 16, 2014 On my Fox Mustang I'm using Duralast rotors (part #54087) with the Cobra calipers. I was using Carbotech pads until about 3 years ago, now using Hawk and LOVE them! My pads can usually last a full season, maybe a tad less. As far as the rotors, I'm now getting at least a full season out of them, I remember a few years ago going through 2 sets a season. One thing we do now is after a race, warmup, qual, etc (when the car is in the pits) is push the car about 5 feet or so every 5 or 10 minutes, that way the car isn't sitting in one spot for a long time right after a session. All that heat gets dissipated a bit more evenly and not focused on one spot on the rotors. I think that's helped with the rotors longevity. Issues we had were with the fronts. You get them from Autozone.......that's the EXACT rotor I'm using with the same caliper. I too roll the car after quickly checking tire pressure and getting out of the fire suit. I'm surprised your pads last that long......although I do a lot of Friday practices too. Several of my competitors are using Hawks and I typically out brake them, even braking/outbraking with those running Wilwoods and Brembos at times (no stoptechs around here). Which Hawks are you running? 60s, 70s? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blk96gt Posted December 16, 2014 Share Posted December 16, 2014 Longevity? I bought a competitive 4.6l mustang to start CMC in 2012 and am running well. Using the cobra/pbr calipers and Carbotech pads I'm stopping with the leaders but pads and white box rotors only last one full weekend. For those that have used PBRs and switched, what are you using now and how much longer are the pads/rotors lasting? Any advice for a relative rookie? I was having the same issue with the Cobra setup until I swapped to the StopTech setup. I was using the Duralast rotors as well. I tried various compounds (Hawk 60/70, Carbotech, PFC01/11), and ended up settling on the PFC01. I know others have used the Raybestos pads (can't remember which compound) with good success. No matter what pads I used I would get at most 3 weekends out of pads/rotors. Average was probably 2. I've got three or four weekends on the Stoptechs now, and the pads and rotors barely look used. I'm pretty sure Mosty has had the same rotors for ~3-4 years, and goes through around one set of pads per season. It looks like my pad life will be about the same too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BADVENM Posted December 16, 2014 Share Posted December 16, 2014 I too can usually out brake quite a few cars, especially the heavier GM's. They'll get me on the long straightaways but come time to hit the brakes hard I can usually catch up to them by braking later. One thing that came to mind is brake bias setting, if you have one. That may help in longer pad/rotor life. Just a thought. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
t500hps Posted December 16, 2014 Author Share Posted December 16, 2014 No brake bias on the car but I always do a "victory lap" around the paddock to help with rotor cooling before parking the car. It seems I'm going to start looking for change in sofas trying to collect $2,400 for Stoptechs! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CMC#11 Posted December 17, 2014 Share Posted December 17, 2014 IMO, the Stoptechs are the way to go!!! I would go through 2 sets of rotors / year and 3 sets of PFC01 pads / year when running the PBR setup. It was a major pain to always be checking pads and bleeding the calipers. It also sucked when coming off track and chatting in the pits after the race and you hear a loud PING, to a cracked rotor you now have to hurry up and replace so you don't miss the next session. I have run the Stoptechs for 4 years now. I do feel they give a performance advantage in modulation but the main benefit is much less maintenance and fewer consumables. I ran my first set of rotors for 2 1/2 years and then decided to buy a new set of rings. The first set is still perfectly good, I just figured why not keep them as a backup set. The newer set has 1 1/2 years on them and they still look great. I also went from getting about 2 weekends on a set of pads to about 5 weekends. The pads cost more for the Stoptechs but last over twice as long. With the PBR's I would bleed my brakes after every event, and sometimes after each day (if it was a heavy braking track). Now I only bleed them before an event at a heavy braking track, and I have never had a hint of boiling fluid with the Stoptechs. If you have the means, I highly recommend picking a set up. They are so choice!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
suck fumes1548534743 Posted December 17, 2014 Share Posted December 17, 2014 The two piece rotors are the biggest contributor to longer pad life. Plus the stoptechs are not $2400 everywhere. Tire rack can order the kit for you for less. I paid $1700 for mine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
t500hps Posted December 17, 2014 Author Share Posted December 17, 2014 The two piece rotors are the biggest contributor to longer pad life. Plus the stoptechs are not $2400 everywhere. Tire rack can order the kit for you for less. I paid $1700 for mine. That's a big enough difference that I'D buy. Remember the part number by any chance? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roadracerwhite Posted December 17, 2014 Share Posted December 17, 2014 Michael, what pads are you running? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CMC#11 Posted December 17, 2014 Share Posted December 17, 2014 PFC01's which have now been changed to PFC11's. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blk96gt Posted December 17, 2014 Share Posted December 17, 2014 The two piece rotors are the biggest contributor to longer pad life. Plus the stoptechs are not $2400 everywhere. Tire rack can order the kit for you for less. I paid $1700 for mine. That's a big enough difference that I'D buy. Remember the part number by any chance? 87-328-4600-50 I'm using the PFC11's as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
t500hps Posted December 20, 2014 Author Share Posted December 20, 2014 Contacted a vendor that comes to our track and found out he could get the last set of "clearanced" ST40 stoptech calipers in a "CMC" kit. The guys at KNS Brakes spent a ton of time finding these things for me and answering a lot of stupid questions I threw at them! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trublu Posted December 20, 2014 Share Posted December 20, 2014 Girodisc sell a 2 piece floating rotor as a direct replacement for a stock mustang rotor. If you call them they will set you up with a plain set, on the web they only list slotted. Good people who are interested in supporting grass roots racers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShadowBolt Posted December 21, 2014 Share Posted December 21, 2014 Girodisc sell a 2 piece floating rotor as a direct replacement for a stock mustang rotor. If you call them they will set you up with a plain set, on the web they only list slotted. Good people who are interested in supporting grass roots racers. Todd at TCE performance also will sell you a set of Aluminum hats then direct you to Coleman for the rings. JJ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Al F. Posted December 24, 2014 Members Share Posted December 24, 2014 lol "choice" Michael? The small rotors and PBR calipers of yesteryear were highly overworked. Thats the entire reason we upgraded the rules to allow for bigger calipers and rotors. I've had the same results as Michael running (much less expensive) Wilwood calipers and generic roundy round rotors. Note also my rotors are only 12.2" which was important to me at the time since my 16" wheels would clear them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CMC#11 Posted December 26, 2014 Share Posted December 26, 2014 lol "choice" Michael? Come on.....Ferris Buelers Day Off!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
t500hps Posted January 11, 2015 Author Share Posted January 11, 2015 So I found a deal, and bought, a set of STOPTECHS!!!! I installed the first side this afternoon and realized I have another question. I do NOT have a bias adjuster. The previous owner had found a pad combination that worked well together and I've not varied from that much. However, with the increased stopping power the stoptechs should have over the PBRs, I'm concerned the rears aren't going to be doing much anymore.......thoughts or suggestions? Anyone make a similar upgrade and have words of advice? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Al F. Posted January 11, 2015 Members Share Posted January 11, 2015 What car do you have again? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
t500hps Posted January 11, 2015 Author Share Posted January 11, 2015 What car do you have again? Guess that helps .........4.6L SN95. Fairly competitive car but I bought it, didn't build it. As typical with the 4.6 mustangs....a little over weight, and a little under powered......car handles great though! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
suck fumes1548534743 Posted January 11, 2015 Share Posted January 11, 2015 You don't need an adjuster. You want less bite in the rear anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DrC Posted January 11, 2015 Share Posted January 11, 2015 I still have the stock GT rear calipers and no adjustments for the rear yet. So far I have played around with different pads to get what I want which is not the most cost efficient way to do it. Stock pads work the best – less bite no lock up so far. The Hank HP was too much without any adjustments. I had problems with the rears locking up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
t500hps Posted February 11, 2015 Author Share Posted February 11, 2015 So, I picked up a set of Stoptechs and got out for a test day with a local mustang club this past weekend (man those high powered street cars are slow as crap in the turns) Anyway. After about 2.75 hours of driving I found I was stopping as fast as with the PBR's but may have improvement left in reducing the brake zone. I'm still using Carbotech XP12's and found very little pad material missing but do see slight scaring of the rotors. (you can feel a hint of "valleys" around the rotor surface).......is this normal? Seems with a brand new setup that I bedded in on a short session that these should still be smooth as a babies azz? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glenn Posted February 12, 2015 Share Posted February 12, 2015 The 12's will eat rotors. That is why I stay with the 10's. I find (as do most) the tires are the limit of the brakes. 10's will lock a wheel just fine, and not kill rotors. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Al F. Posted February 18, 2015 Members Share Posted February 18, 2015 I like 10s as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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