In-Car Cameras

[GAC]

Anyone have a good suggestion that's priced reasonably and is vibration resilient?

[Eric J.]

Anything with "image stabilization" will work fine. Most cameras have this with the exceptions being the lowest priced product tiers.

 

I use a Canon ZR200 but there are lots of reasonably priced cams out there that will work well.

 

Get a good mount, though. That can be more important than the cam quality sometimes.

[GAC]

Thanks for the info. I knew about the mount, just trying to get the first step done first.

[granracing]

My opinion is to use a lipstick camera to capture the footage. You then can use an "inexpensive" MiniDV camera to record the footage.

[mcmmotorsports]

My opinion is to use a lipstick camera to capture the footage. You then can use an "inexpensive" MiniDV camera to record the footage.

Pics and links please.

[Chino 240Z]

We currently are using a video camera with image stablization turned off works better on our camera. But it is the moving parts of the recording head that won't give a stable picture... so we too are in the market to put together a system for our car.

 

Several months ago, our friend posted this info about his system. There is lot of new technology that gives good results, it just a matter of putting the pieces of the puzzle together and trying different things for the results that suit you. First here is an example of how his system did.

 

 

The following is a long naritive and example of what he did with different parts you can buy and put together one that works.

 

....

I've been trying to get the right pieces together for a flexible and (relatively) affordable in-car video camera set up, and I think the camera I got today finishes it off.

 

The cheapest way to do in-car video, of course, is to make a home-made camera mount and slap on a $25 VHS camcorder that you picked up at a garage sale. When the car shakes the old camcorder apart, you take a Sunday morning and go find another garage sale. Simple and cheap.

 

But in my case, I want to be able to put one camera on the front bumper, or the rear wing (or pointed at the suspension, even), and one camera in the cockpit, showing the steering wheel and my feet as I drive. So, I ideally need two bullet cameras, a way to combine the two for a picture-in-picture effect, and a way to record the combined image that makes it easy to get it to the primary place I view it, my computer.

 

RECORDER

 

The Mustek PVR-A1 is a no-moving-parts solution that records MPEG-4 encoded video files to a SD memory card and is about the size of an iPod. It also has a screen, so you can see that your cameras are working correctly, and also review your laps right there at the track. It also has a rechargeable battery for when it's out of the car, so you can show other people your laps and exciting off-track excursions. (As a bonus, you can listen to MP3's on it and look at pictures of your wife and kids.)

 

A $50 SD card holds 3.5 hours of video, and goes right into a $5 reader for the laptop, which means no cables, encoding, or other nonsense when you want to get the videos into the computer.

 

It's the bargain of the package, too, at about $95 through Amazon.com.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002MGZPA/102-1881379-1528957?v=glance&n=502394

 

PICTURE-IN-PICTURE

http://www.rcd-video.com/index.htm

 

The View-2.com box by RCD Video allows you to combine two incoming video streams into one image. You can have an inset box, like you see above. You can change the size and location of the box in the frame, and you can also do half-split frames (horizontal or vertical) if you want to do a front-rear setup. It's $289, because it's not really a consumer item. It's available here.

http://www.hoyttech.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&Product_ID=303

 

It's not cheap, but I think there's a real value to being able to see what you're doing (in addition to what the car is doing) in a lap video.

 

CAMERAS

 

I found a cheap source for Sony 1/3-inch CCD HAD bullet cameras, and there's an annoying problem with them that finally pushed me to buy a more expensive model. Many bullet cameras seem to be engineered for low-light photography, which makes them 'bleach out' too readily in bright light use -- like when you're driving at the track. I've finally concluded that the cheap cameras are fine for the cockpit-based camera (since there's less light in the car), so this one is a good choice for that.

http://webtronics.stores.yahoo.net/sosuhadccdco2.html

 

But I just found a better solution for the main camera. It's a 530-line high-resolution camera with a 1/3-inch latest-generation SuperHAD (whatever that means) Sony sensor. Out of the box, it is less prone to the 'bleaching' effect, and it's capable of high enough resolution so that you could record to DV tapes and have a DVD-like image. But what it also has that's unusual is a wired remote control that you can attach to it which allows you to digitally zoom in or out, and pan or tilt on the digitally zoomed image. That's cool, but it's not important to lap videos. But it also allows you to manually adjust the camera's iris up or down in steps to compensate for a too-bright sky (or a too-dark day, or anything else, I guess). I believe the iris still responds automatically to incoming light level changes, at this point, but the steps allow you to change the range that it's opening or closing the iris within. When you power the camera off, it reverts to its normal settings.

 

It's $209 for this camera,

http://www.eyespyvideo.com/color/weatherproof/cc-5hr.htm

and another $25 for the remote control. But the manual control the remote gives you is unique among the bullet cameras I've seen, and it holds the settings even after you unplug the remote. This retailer also includes all the stuff the other guys typically nickel and dime you for. You get an AC adapter, a 25-foot video and power cable, a 12V battery adapter, the RCA cables to connect it to a digital recorder or VCR, and a BNC-RCA adapter. I also got an extra lens for $20. It came with a wide-angle 3.6mm lens. I also got a 2.9-mm one that's even wider. I can switch them pretty easily without compromising the camera's weatherproof-ness.

 

The company that sells it is in St. Louis, and they sell it for $209 even though it lists on their site for $229. They're kind of new to e-commerce, and promise a simpler on-line ordering system in the next couple of weeks. But I ordered it on Sunday, and it shipped Monday by FedEx for only $8, with no sales tax. I was very impressed with their follow-up and service. They emailed me to let me know about the $20 price cut, for example.

 

 

MICROPHONE

 

You also need an $8 microphone. It's probably something you can get at Radio Shack, as well.

 

http://www.supercircuits.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=4123

 

It's worthwhile to make the trip to Radio Shack to put together some 12V power lines from the cigarette lighter or other source with plugs for the cameras and the recorder.

 

Good Luck.

[white_2kgt]

My opinion is to use a lipstick camera to capture the footage. You then can use an "inexpensive" MiniDV camera to record the footage.

Pics and links please.

 

I use these,

 

http://www.chasecam.com/

[NASA Jim]

Wow, great write up, Chino 240Z!

[V8VENOM]

Yes, lipstick camera's are the way to go with appropriate lens. DO NOT mount your camcorder directly to a camcorder mount (connected to the cage) unless your camcorder has NO moving parts.

 

If your camcorder has moving parts, isolate it in a foam box or some box that can pretect it from shock and use a lipstick lens. If your race vehicle can produce more than 1.5G then don't use a camcorder with moving parts at all -- use a camcorder that recorders to flash ram.

 

If anyone knows of HD quality (native 1080i, not 720p) lipstick lens, please let me know.

 

Thanks, Rob.

[mcmmotorsports]

Here is what I did:

 

I have been stressing these past few days trying to get my video setup for Sunday's trip to The Rock. My Sony picture camera does GREAT videos, but only about 3 minutes of it. I borrowed a friends VHS-C camera, made two separate mounts, one was too flimsy and the second was very secure but made the tape heads vibrate like crazy resulting in a distorted image.

So, I went to Target, dropped $100 on this cheap ass digital video camera hoping it would do the trick. So far, I am impressed. It has an MP3 player so I can play toons, a 5 megapixel camera that is pretty friggin awesome compared to my $300 Sony. Best of all, I can record over 5 hours of video on the 1gb SD card I bought to go with it (extra $50). Anyways, here is two pics and a sample vid.

 

Here is the setup:

 

 

Sony Camera pic:

 

 

Cheap Camera pic:

 

 

Not too shabby.

 

Here is the sample video, btw I have to adjust the white balance and play with the microphone to get better sound, but this thing will do the trick:

 

Right Click, Save As:

 

http://www.mcmmotorsports.com/cheapmovie.wmv

[Eric J.]

Yes, lipstick camera's are the way to go with appropriate lens. DO NOT mount your camcorder directly to a camcorder mount (connected to the cage) unless your camcorder has NO moving parts.

 

If your camcorder has moving parts, isolate it in a foam box or some box that can pretect it from shock and use a lipstick lens. If your race vehicle can produce more than 1.5G then don't use a camcorder with moving parts at all -- use a camcorder that recorders to flash ram.

 

If anyone knows of HD quality (native 1080i, not 720p) lipstick lens, please let me know.

 

Thanks, Rob.

 

A lot of people (myself included) have had very good success with the miniDV cameras and direct cage mounts. I see a lot of very stable, clear video from these things and they're not especially expensive.

 

I know some guys who do professional production with such things, which is where I got my advice originally.

 

With the miniDV since the data is recorded digitally it is much less susceptible to vibration in the tape transport. It still vibrates, it just doesn't affect the data.

[white_2kgt]

With the miniDV since the data is recorded digitally it is much less susceptible to vibration in the tape transport. It still vibrates, it just doesn't affect the data.

 

Mine does. At the end of a very long straights at high speeds I will get artifacts and you can even see entire frames of what is being recorded over.

[99HOSS]

Here's some video taken with a Canon mounted on the rollbar.

 

And this video is taken with a 'lipstick' cam on the roof and the camcorder mounted on the rollbar.

 

I get my accessories from Chase Cam and my camcorders from E-Bay with a total investment of about 300 bux.

[mcmmotorsports]

Looks good.

While I liked and was satisfied with my $100 setup with the Aiptek Digital Camcorder, I have since returned it to Target and will invest in a new QUALITY Digital Camcorder for my next event.

Here is the video I made with it on Sunday:

 

Right Click, Save As,

http://www.mcmmotorsports.com/mcmtherock.wmv

[99HOSS]

My Canon camcorder is the Mini Dv, the Sony uses Hi-8 tape. You need an analog input to work the bullet cam and microphone, as well as a 12v source (cig lighter).

[white_2kgt]

My Canon camcorder is the Mini Dv, the Sony uses Hi-8 tape. You need an analog input to work the bullet cam and microphone, as well as a 12v source (cig lighter).

 

You can use battery packs w/ the ChaseCam's (AA's). I choose to use the 12v cig adapter though.

[99HOSS]

I use the cigarette lighter adapter that splits in two, one for the bullet cam, the other to power the mic. I usually run the mic to the back of the car to capture the full sound from the engine. When I do Speed World Challenge cars, they're so loud that I can leave the mic inside the cabin.

[bulletshell13]

do you really feel that the cheaper $50 sony bullet cam is bad on a sunny day? Any example of how it does ?

[99HOSS]

the cheaper $50 sony bullet cam

 

... do you have any more info on this produce, as I've not dealt with it. I use the one from Chase Cam, I believe the 480. (It's been a few years)

[bulletshell13]

It's $209 for this camera,

http://www.eyespyvideo.com/color/weatherproof/cc-5hr.htm

and another $25 for the remote control. But the manual control the remote gives you is unique among the bullet cameras I've seen, and it holds the settings even after you unplug the remote. This retailer also includes all the stuff the other guys typically nickel and dime you for. You get an AC adapter, a 25-foot video and power cable, a 12V battery adapter, the RCA cables to connect it to a digital recorder or VCR, and a BNC-RCA adapter. I also got an extra lens for $20. It came with a wide-angle 3.6mm lens. I also got a 2.9-mm one that's even wider. I can switch them pretty easily without compromising the camera's weatherproof-ness.

 

The company that sells it is in St. Louis, and they sell it for $209 even though it lists on their site for $229. They're kind of new to e-commerce, and promise a simpler on-line ordering system in the next couple of weeks. But I ordered it on Sunday, and it shipped Monday by FedEx for only $8, with no sales tax. I was very impressed with their follow-up and service. They emailed me to let me know about the $20 price cut, for example.

 

 

Did you find that the 2.9mm lense upgrade was needed for typical incar use?

 

Let me know.

[99HOSS]

the 2.9mm lense upgrade is not really necessary, especially for incar use.

 

The standard 3.6mm (92 degree) is just fine for incar or outta car.

[tegra00gsr]

 

I found a cheap source for Sony 1/3-inch CCD HAD bullet cameras, and there's an annoying problem with them that finally pushed me to buy a more expensive model. Many bullet cameras seem to be engineered for low-light photography, which makes them 'bleach out' too readily in bright light use -- like when you're driving at the track. I've finally concluded that the cheap cameras are fine for the cockpit-based camera (since there's less light in the car), so this one is a good choice for that.

http://webtronics.stores.yahoo.net/sosuhadccdco2.html

 

 

Could this cam be used inside car (not for recording driver) for recording action through wind-shield, or will the light inside affect the picture?

Also can any of you guys post some pics of your cam mounts (preferably mounts inside the car, and not mounted to cage cause I don’t have one)

 

Thank You

[99HOSS]

When there is no rollbar to attach to, I use the tri-suction cup mount from Chase Cam on the inside of the windsheild.

 

Here's a sample, but turn down your speakers first.

[BillB]

I've been using a Canon ZR200 mounted on the rollbar using an IO-port mount and have been very happy with the quality. The best thing I did was get a wide angle lense off ebay for $15. I can fit about 1/3 more of the windshield in the shot with it.

 

Here's an example at a reasonable resolution for internet use.

http://www.breesmotorsports.com/INCAR/NationalChamps_BestLap.wmv