Prod Posted August 10, 2006 Share Posted August 10, 2006 I'm building a 88 RX-7 GTU, and I plan on making the HPDE->TT->PT progression. So I'm trying to figure out how I'm going ot go about doing this. I definitely would like to put in a racing seat/harness ASAP, because the driver's seat that's in the car now is in pretty crappy condition, and I'd like to held in place. I'm 6'3", 170lbs, so width of a seat isn't too much of an issue for me, but height is. I'm also trying to be economical. I went to a racing shop, and all they had were Sparco seats. I only had trouble fitting in one of them width wise, but I could only sit in one of them height wise. Any recommendations? My other question is about the roll cage. My understanding is that I won't need a cage until I get to PT. But I presume that a cage would change the handling characteristics of the car, so I would think it would be best to put it in from the start under the "practice like you perform" kind of thought process. Can I get some opinions on this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tims Posted August 10, 2006 Share Posted August 10, 2006 cheaper to sell the nice street car and buy an entry level race car. If you decide against this suggestion then determine when the car is no longer going to be driven on the road and have all of the safety items done at one time. Have the seat that fits you(I use Racetech seats and I am 6' tall and about 275#, yes they make them big) when the cage is constructed(no pre mades or bolt ins) so the fabricator can make sure your head has room. he can also install all the tabs and reinforcements for the belts and window net. After this work it will be unsafe to drive this car on the road without a helmet on, so don't. Building a race car will cost 3 to 4 times what a used one could be bought for. Let someone else take the initial hit. good luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trackboss Posted August 10, 2006 Share Posted August 10, 2006 Racetech seats are a great option. Personally I really like kirkey. They have seats in just about any size and can even custom build. The absolute best harnesses in my opinion are teamtech. Call Curt Tucker who owns teamtech and he will give you more info about safety and how to mounts things than any other person. Very knowledgable and worth every penny. One thing to remember is you pay for what you get. Skimping on this type of stuff is not a wise idea. That goes for custom fab work as well. Unless you are a fabricator or ever work alongside a talented one you will not appreciate the amount of work that goes into even the most simple custom part. -V Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prod Posted August 13, 2006 Author Share Posted August 13, 2006 Tim, I would agree with you that in a normal circumstance it would be cheaper to buy a used race car. In my case, I picked up my RX-7 for $100 with a blown motor. I bought a motor for $130, and I'm working on swapping it in right now. The new motor will be used temporarily to run the car stock so I can figure out where it needs the most improvement. The old motor will be rebuilt by me with assistance from an experienced rotary expert, with some things done to it to ensure longetivity on the track. All the labor is being done by me, with the exception of anything that involves welding. So basically the cage is the only thing I'll be paying labor for. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tims Posted August 13, 2006 Share Posted August 13, 2006 I know it sounds like it will work and it will be a fun project, but even if the cage was done for free labor the parts and material will cost more than an entry level car ready to go. A good(not spectacular) cage will cost a minimum of $2000 if done correctly. throw in a good seat, belts, window nets, fire extinguisher, etc. it could easily cost $3500. for about $5000 you could find a number of "IT" type cars, not top runners but finished cars. I have built 4 cars from scratch and all have more than tripled my original estimate. I am not telling you your plan is BS just trying to give you a push in the other direction. You will need to have some cash left over to hit the track with as well. good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
944-Spec#94 Posted August 21, 2006 Share Posted August 21, 2006 While it is cheaper to buy a built car, sometimes it is just not as much fun. Did a few DE's and then WANTED a project track car. So over the next couple years built and old 944 into a track car then into a race car when I was ready for racing. Nice thing about it was it gave me time to learn about driving, building, and setting up a race car. It may have cost more than buying a complete car, but I don't think it would have been any more fun. Hey you buy a car for $100 and and engine for $130 that is great. Now as for your answers. If the car will be street driven for anything other than to the track and back I'd suggest a roll bar only. A roll cage and unhelmeted head are a really bad combo. If it will be trailered then put in the cage, seats, & harnesses right away. Make sure the rest of the car is mechanically sound and have at it. In time you can upgrade the suspension. Build the car over 2-3 years and it will be a nice project for you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alberto_mg Posted October 4, 2006 Share Posted October 4, 2006 Timms - where to find such a car? All the used ITS RX7s I see are all pretty pricey for someone looking to start HPDE and eventually move into a race class. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Twanksta Posted October 4, 2006 Share Posted October 4, 2006 i know your not supposed to drive on the street with a cage, but I could of sworn I read a thread where people were saying they drove their cars to certain races. So do these people just wear their helmets for the whole trip on the street? Is it even legal to wear a helmet on the street? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
racercosmo Posted October 4, 2006 Share Posted October 4, 2006 Beware when buying a new car, because you always have to watch out for buying somebody else's mistake. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gfaules Posted October 5, 2006 Share Posted October 5, 2006 There is no law against having a roll cage in a car on the street as long as it does not obstruct the driver's vision. Some cars come from the factory with roll bars. With regards to buying a car that ready to race, the key to buying one is buy one that was in the winner's circle often. For the novice it's still better than building one from scratch and you typically get a lot of high end goodies you would normally not get. Furthermore, if you don't know a good deal when you see one, odds are you would not be knowledgeable enough to build one anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Izzy's Cages Posted October 9, 2006 Share Posted October 9, 2006 Buying one with a proven track record is a great idea, but you don't necessarily need to buy one out of the winners circle (if you're on a budget). You should buy one after it comes off the track. I'll never again buy a racecar sitting in someones garage based on what the owner tells me. Better yet, work it out with the owner to rent the car for a weekend with the money going towards final purchase. If the car's a POS, you've just saved yourself a ton of $$$ and had a weekend of racing in a car you don't have to tow home! Buy your first racecar, build your second Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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