StlSupra Posted October 3, 2006 Share Posted October 3, 2006 I had a winch on my flatbed trailer. it performed 'ok' but I think it was more of a boat winch (I got off eBay). My primary reason I liked it was that it was easily removable and since my trailer sits in a storage yard, security is an issue. However someone borrowed my trailer/winch and return it with the winch shattered and broken. so I need to replace it. I've been looking at the superwinches (s4000) but not sure about how secure I can make it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
National Staff Greg G. Posted October 3, 2006 National Staff Share Posted October 3, 2006 If you weld it to the trailer, it won't walk away. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StlSupra Posted October 3, 2006 Author Share Posted October 3, 2006 good point, but i figured welding was out since the housing/electrical stuff was so close to the base? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
white_2kgt Posted October 3, 2006 Share Posted October 3, 2006 I have this one in my enclosed trailer, not sure if you are looking for a particular type of mount, but you can build any kind of mount you want for it. http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_200197824_200197824 I got it at one of the NorthernTools stores when they were having a killer sale. I've been using it all season and it hasn't failed to pull my 3300lb mustang on the trailer yet. I've pulled it up with a bent axle dragging one wheel and all. I cut the remote wire in half and put on male and femal 110v receptical plugs on either end, this way I can use one of the many extension cords I carry with me to the track to extend the remote, I can stand behind the car now and watch it get pulled onto the trailer, much safer than standing in front of it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
National Staff Greg G. Posted October 3, 2006 National Staff Share Posted October 3, 2006 good point, but i figured welding was out since the housing/electrical stuff was so close to the base? Mine did fine. I also welded the nuts onto the bolts used to bolt it down. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StlSupra Posted October 3, 2006 Author Share Posted October 3, 2006 i love the idea of the extension cord for switch. that was one of my major pet peeve's about my old one. Just to clarify what my old one was, here is a pic. i took the three 'studs' that hold the winch to the metal bracket (used to attach to tow ball) and drilled them into the front of my trailer. attached and detached to the trailer with GREAT ease. winch itself was just a little wimpy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trackboss Posted October 4, 2006 Share Posted October 4, 2006 It will take some work to steal a winch. My superwinch requires that the cable be pulled from the spool befor I can access the bolts to remove it. The nuts are welded on underneath the mount. You could always build a lockable cover that goes over the fairlead so the cable cannot be pulled out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StlSupra Posted October 4, 2006 Author Share Posted October 4, 2006 I didn't know that about the superwinch. thats somewhat comforting. my wife made a comment last night, 'if you just bought an enclosed trailer you wouldn't have to worry so much about the security' hmmmm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zuperdave Posted October 4, 2006 Share Posted October 4, 2006 I didn't know that about the superwinch. thats somewhat comforting. my wife made a comment last night, 'if you just bought an enclosed trailer you wouldn't have to worry so much about the security' hmmmm Reminds me of the story one of my buddies at work told me about his wife pointing out a super-size big-screen TV and remarking how well it would go with the rest of their decor when all he was looking for was a nice 37." Carpe diem, dude! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gfaules Posted October 5, 2006 Share Posted October 5, 2006 It is very simple to build an inexpensive bracket that enables you to simply slide your winch off the trailer. I used to have three trailers and made a bracket that allowed me to use one winch on either trailer and it only took a minute to change it. When I was storing the trailer the winch simply skid off and stayed in the shop. I also used the same winch on another bracket in the front of my Jeep. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Renntag Posted December 9, 2006 Share Posted December 9, 2006 The enclosed trailer is a great idea. Perhaps you could also just mount a box over top of your winch that uses a lock to keep it in place. Security and weather protection. 2 part benefit. white_2kgt: dude you have to stop breaking your car and you wont need a winch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
white_2kgt Posted December 9, 2006 Share Posted December 9, 2006 white_2kgt: dude you have to stop breaking your car and you wont need a winch. lol, at no time this seson could I not have driven the car onto the trailer, yes even after it was upside down and had a bent rear axel I still could drive it. I just winch it into the enclosed trailer b/c it's a little tricky getting in/out of the car w/ the race seats and rollcage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Renntag Posted December 9, 2006 Share Posted December 9, 2006 I remember your version of the mustang upside down cake demonstrated at VIR last July. Let me say that I dont recommend anyone try this recipe. Leave it up to the pros like White_2KGT. so is your trailer less than 8 feet wide? I can understand the convenience of using the winch to load and unload the car. I am sure that my neighbors would appreciate me using a winch when I decide to load the car after bed time. I may take your lead and install a winch next year. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
white_2kgt Posted December 10, 2006 Share Posted December 10, 2006 I remember your version of the mustang upside down cake demonstrated at VIR last July. Let me say that I dont recommend anyone try this recipe. Leave it up to the pros like White_2KGT. so is your trailer less than 8 feet wide? I can understand the convenience of using the winch to load and unload the car. I am sure that my neighbors would appreciate me using a winch when I decide to load the car after bed time. I may take your lead and install a winch next year. Trailer is 8' wide, but when I open the door it won't clear the wheel fenders inside so I can only open it about 3". Pre gutting the doors I could climb out over the door, but after I gutted them they wouldn't support my weight. I'd have to raise the car up another 6" to get it to clear and I already have it on 2 2x8", I don't wait to raise the center of gravity any more. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Renntag Posted December 10, 2006 Share Posted December 10, 2006 Trailer is 8' wide, .... after I gutted (doors) they wouldn't support my weight. .... I am planning to gut my doors this winter to install NASCAR bars. The greatest benefit will be ELBOW ROOM. My left elbow hits the cage, its annoying. Several other mustangs I have driven with gutted doors were strong enough to support the weight of the driver upon exit. We never have the door open for egress. I also have an 8' trailer, but I have plenty of room to squeeze out the window with the door closed. Bottom line I think your winch load and unload method has many merits. Often I load the car at the end of a long work day and I am concerned about disturbing my neihgbors, although they dont complain. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
white_2kgt Posted December 10, 2006 Share Posted December 10, 2006 Several other mustangs I have driven with gutted doors were strong enough to support the weight of the driver upon exit. We never have the door open for egress. well, I got a little carried away when I gutted mine, http://www.2kgt.com/images/RandomRacePrep_2005-12-14/IMG_9528.jpg It will 100% not support the weight of a 14lb baby, much less my 210lb ass. When I gut the doors on the next car I'm only going to take enough so the NASCAR bars will fit inside. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Renntag Posted December 10, 2006 Share Posted December 10, 2006 Yep, that is standard issue for "Gutted Door". When the door is latched closed it is far stronger than you may think. ...but perhaps your top NASCAR bar doesnt support the top edge of the door. FWIW, I have always thought your car was sweet. Will you have it at VIR in Feb? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nape Posted December 11, 2006 Share Posted December 11, 2006 white 2kgt: I was just checking out your build pics on the new car and noticed you've got a bunch of dry ice laying in the floor boards. What's up with that trick? Just wondering if it's something to help get out all the GD seam filler, I've been struggling with that stuff for a while now and I can never seem to get it all out of the seams to weld them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
white_2kgt Posted December 11, 2006 Share Posted December 11, 2006 Yep, that is standard issue for "Gutted Door". When the door is latched closed it is far stronger than you may think. ...but perhaps your top NASCAR bar doesnt support the top edge of the door. FWIW, I have always thought your car was sweet. Will you have it at VIR in Feb? Even with the door closed, it wouldn't support the weight of a person sitting on it. The wife just had a baby so my time is mostly consumed by that these days. I won't have the AI car ready by then, I'm sort of shooting for mid-season. I hope to be out sooner in HPDE though in another mustang that is almost ready. 02 GT, 01 4v engine 04 IRS. white 2kgt: I was just checking out your build pics on the new car and noticed you've got a bunch of dry ice laying in the floor boards. What's up with that trick? Just wondering if it's something to help get out all the GD seam filler, I've been struggling with that stuff for a while now and I can never seem to get it all out of the seams to weld them. Well, a friend of mine tried it on their Honda and let it sit for an hour or so then hit it w/ a hammer and it popped off in chunks. I tried it and got nothing. So I'm back to heat gun + scrapper (this is the sound deadner). For the seam sealer I usually just smash it all out w/ a hammer then let the welder burn the rest of it out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nape Posted December 11, 2006 Share Posted December 11, 2006 Gotcha. I tried welding it but the seam filler burning off blows out the arc. A small propane torch didn't get it hot enough to burn it off so I'm going to try MAPP gas next. I really don't want to have an O-A rig in the attached garage, but it may come to that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Renntag Posted December 11, 2006 Share Posted December 11, 2006 Chad: Congrats on the baby. Best of luck finding a moment here and there to get the car done. Look for me in 07, we should talk more. As far as the sound deadening removal.... I have done 3 fox mustangs and used just a small hammer and a selection of putty knives. Often I didnt even need the hammer and large pieces would come loose. All three cars had the same effect. I thought it was pretty easy. Each one took about 3-4 hours to complete. I cut through the seam sealer with the same method, just with far more effort. I used a razor blade as well in some spots. A small high speed wire wheel also helped remove sealer for weld prep. Scotch brite discs are the bomb for general surface prep. They dont remove material like grinding discs do, they just remove the crap attached to the metal. Have a great holiday everyone. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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