NorrFam Posted October 8, 2006 Share Posted October 8, 2006 Soliciting thoughts on how to approach first time out with new (to me) car at Rockingham. Have done some Mazda events with a Mazda 3 and progressing skill wise but had chance to get a 00 Mustang GT at a right price and had already joined NASA. So, what are the thoughts about how to approach this first time out in a significantly more potent car. Will be in group I most likely since new to NASA. I dont think the Rock will be a very technical track so my thoughts are to "list" things discovered as the car is shaken down. Any thoughts out there?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gfaules Posted October 8, 2006 Share Posted October 8, 2006 First of all it is Murphy's Law that just about the time you think a track won't be technicla, get ready for a can of whoop ass. But other than that, just what you did in your first car.. feel it out and work your way up gradually and enjoy the process. Remember, you won't win Indy this weekend. Have fun. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NorrFam Posted October 9, 2006 Author Share Posted October 9, 2006 I wont be complacent as I am sure Rock has its own quirks(off camber, the high bank and how to get onto it, etc) but the infield section has to be relatively flat compared to Shenandoah's and VIR's vertical corkscrews. I agree, I wont be setting any lap records, just want to get smooth as quick as possible, if I can do that, fast will come along. I was hoping a GT owner might jump in with some things to look for in the car and the way it goes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OutaFocus Posted October 31, 2006 Share Posted October 31, 2006 By now you've already done the event, but I'll give you the same answer I give every time. If you are starting out, spend the money on seat time. You will go quickly faster with time behind the wheel and as you gain experience, you can start to fix the areas of the car that are lacking, and with a Mustang those areas are many and varied (I run one too). Just make sure all of the mechanicals are up to spec, throw on a good set of pads and drive it! Once you start down the Mustang mod path, it is possible, and some say necessary, to replace every single part on the suspension in the search for grip and balance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
runningmole Posted October 31, 2006 Share Posted October 31, 2006 The closer to stock it is, the more it's going to lean, dive, and lift different parts of the car during different operations. Lift the front during acceleration. Drive hard under braking, and lean in the corners. The rear likes to wiggle too once you corner harder than regular street driving Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NorrFam Posted October 31, 2006 Author Share Posted October 31, 2006 I appreciate the comments. Did do the Rock event and found the infield turns to be flat as I expected which posed their own set of problems since few turns elsewhere are so consistently flat. The transition on and off the banks was a real thump. Car did ok since I was new to it and likely not near its limits. Stock brakes/rotors and Hawk HPS pads were ok in the infield turns but braking down from speed on the oval they didnt get it done, read Cobra brake upgrade maybe. Shocks/struts felt ok. Not OE but dont know what they are as there are no markings. Not a lot of nose dive but as 'runningmole' suggested, the rear end I didnt figure out. Never lost the backend, but would bite really rough and sort of shudder if I got back on it too hard trying to come out of a corner. Rockingham is a very coarse asphalt dont know if that is part of the feel. Thanks for the comments. Hope some more weigh in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Renntag Posted November 2, 2006 Share Posted November 2, 2006 All the above advice is sound. Congrats on scoring a nice V8 sedan. I am hoping to eventually get a 98-04 GT, cobra or similar for myself. As you work your way through the HPDE program you will become more familiar and comfortable with the car. You mentioned upgrading your brakes. I wouldnt change them. The stock GT brakes are good. You need high temp fluid like ATE superblue, good stainless lines, quality stock replacement rotors not made in china, brake cooling ducts and good track pads. I havnt spent a significant amount of time with the hawk pads to comment. I have Carbotech pads on my car and they perform well. The only other thing I could reccommend would be to change your springs. Later you may want to add a front strut brace, upgrade front bushings, rear lower arms, and possibly ad a panhard bar. Springs will reduce the crazy body roll. The next mod I would make would be a roll bar, seats and harnesses. Seats will allow you to better feel the car since you arent sliding around. I wouldnt use harnesses with out a roll bar. Bottom line is to get seat time. Dont be like many others before and allow the expense of modifications cut into your track time budget. The driver usually needs the most improvement. I can attest to that personally. I am always looking for ways to improve myself. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NorrFam Posted November 3, 2006 Author Share Posted November 3, 2006 The difference in speed seemed to be the main reason the whoa factor was weak. In the infield they did fine. could be pads could be rotors. Stopping fine in street use obviously. I got spoiled by how quick my Mazda 3 hatch would brake down from 100+. I know it weighs 500 lbs less but the OE brakes were super. The HPS pads really blacked up the wheels though. Didnt know they could put out so much dust so fast. What is the spring rate on the stock springs 400lbs? The lowering springs are 600lbs front and I think 300 rear. Really cant afford to put 10k in a 10k car cause it wont be a 20k car in the end. Figure I can do one or two mods a season. On track I put some of that drawer liner(woven rubbery stuff) to make me and the instructor stick in the leather seat. WORKS. Just roll it back up and put in the tool box. $4.97 at wallyworld What is the experience with the autopower rollbars? Anyone put a system in without tearing the car up inside totally. CG belt tensioners?? Any experience there??? Did three events this year hope to do more (6 or so) this year once the schedules start coming out so I can plan for time off. Again, thanks for the comments. I take em seriously. But not personally. Didnt know the Mustang was a sedan. ?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ST#97 Posted November 8, 2006 Share Posted November 8, 2006 As someone who started out in the same car 6 years ago doing AX's, then on to OT/Hpde and now a full season of AI under my belt...I recommend the following two mods before tons more seat time. Get the Brembo front brakes and don't waste you time with the cobras, then get a Maximum motorsport panhard bar. These two items will significantly improve the "stability, safety and predictability" of the car so the loose nut behind the wheel can get better. After that, look into coil overs at all 4 corners and at that point, if you get the bug....get the rest of the MM package and you will think you are driving a whole other car. The one thing I do seriously suggest is a canton oil pan so you can run 7 quarts of oil and then get a remote filter setup to get up to 8 qts if you can. These motors use oil when open tracked and you need to watch the oil level religiously! Feel free to ask me a bunch of questions on your trek for track!!!! Matt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NorrFam Posted November 15, 2006 Author Share Posted November 15, 2006 Dollars might keep me out of the Brembos, at least for now but will look in to panhard and other mods to the rear to try to keep it under me. Found article from 5.0 mag that was 2 parter on handling for Foxes but concepts should translate pretty well and web sites for suppliers should work to get more apporpriate parts, etc. Good thoughts. Thanks. Am building library of materials and articles off the internet based on responses I have gotten. Will VIN give me an indication of which trans and gear ratio is in the car? I think its the 3.55 (?) given that 2000rpm gives me about 68mph in 5th gear. I saw in article that 3.73 at 2000 is closer to the usual 60. Not interested in draging(4.10) but gettin off the corner in 2nd or 3rd could always be better. Wonder if a gear change out is something in my skill range or best left to the shop. Sorry to be slow getting back in to reply. Thanks to any and all contributors. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ST#97 Posted November 17, 2006 Share Posted November 17, 2006 Dollars might keep me out of the Brembos, at least for now but will look in to panhard and other mods to the rear to try to keep it under me. Found article from 5.0 mag that was 2 parter on handling for Foxes but concepts should translate pretty well and web sites for suppliers should work to get more apporpriate parts, etc. Good thoughts. Thanks. Am building library of materials and articles off the internet based on responses I have gotten. Will VIN give me an indication of which trans and gear ratio is in the car? I think its the 3.55 (?) given that 2000rpm gives me about 68mph in 5th gear. I saw in article that 3.73 at 2000 is closer to the usual 60. Not interested in draging(4.10) but gettin off the corner in 2nd or 3rd could always be better. Wonder if a gear change out is something in my skill range or best left to the shop. Stock gears are 3.27's...there should be a metal tag on the diff...if the car is still stock! Sorry to be slow getting back in to reply. Thanks to any and all contributors. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NorrFam Posted November 23, 2006 Author Share Posted November 23, 2006 3.27 hmm never guessed it was that tall missed that somewher in my reading will climb under when the rain stops and check the tag thanks for the input dont need 4.10 but lower gearing should get me off a corner quicker 3.53 or 3.73 should not run out of rpms on most straights I wouldnt think Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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