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91 5.0 with 100,000 miles on it. will it be ok for HPDE


rppngears91

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Hey guys Iam going to be a driving a Mustang this upcoming season. I have a 91 Mustang with simple bolt ons here and there (heads, headers, ignition, and 24 lbs ejectors). It does have 100,000 miles on the block though. I was wondering if it would be a bad idea to drive it on track, without giving it a rebuild? Thanks guys cya

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100k miles is just getting broken in if it was well maintained. I'm right now pulling the original motor out of my '88 track Mustang with 200k miles. The last 40k over the last 4 years were mostly either on track or driving to/from the track. Despite being 1960's technology (and built on 1960's machinery), the 302 longblock is amazingly reliable. As long as it still has good oil pressure and compression, just continue to change the oil often and have at it.

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I've got a '95 Cobra that saw its first HPDE at 110,000 miles. I've done 8 HPDE's now and it still runs fine. It's a dedicated track car so I run it hard, but I try and shift about 5500 RPMs.

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very nice, thanks a lot guys!! Yes it has always been very well maintained, i'd like to do another compression test on it tho just for a check up. I did only two cylinder when i first got my compression tester and I think they were both around 120-140 i cant remember, does that sound ok? Its should b fine tho. thanks again!

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I've got a stock 1990 with 120k+ and 4 weekends. It still runs fine, except about 5-10psi lower on oil pressure after the first weekend.

 

I think the root cause was that I was losing oil pressure in the turns. I got a Canton road race oil pan, and it's been holding steady since. If your car handles good, I'd get the oil pan to protect the long block.

 

FD

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Have been driving an '88 Trans Am WS6 with 187,xxx miles on it and it does just fine. Will probably have to overhaul in a couple of years though since the 305 is down on power a bit

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I was pretty sure i didnt have to worry about the engine, the transmission on the other hand makes some pretty nasty sounds at high rpms, and my syncros are just about done, i think the moron who had the car before never heard of heel toe. thanks guys c ya

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I'd worry about the brakes on that car personally....

 

just keep an eye on your fluid levels and the drivetrain should be good to go

 

kbrew, what do u mean exactly?

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are you on the stock brakes on that car?

 

at a trackday, you really put some heat through them, and Foxes don't exactly have the best brakes ever. PLEASE spend some cash on the best race pads you can find for the car and put some brake fluid in that will handle tracking (I'd recommend Motul 600 fluid, and ask around the Mustang guys what pad seems to work best).

 

brake fade sucks

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oooo i gotcha, yea ive swap those crappy drum brakes out for sum rear discs and im using hawk blue pads. hopefully that will be okay, it worked good last year? any suggestion to make it better besides pads n fluid by any chance?

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that should do for stock-ish levels of power I'd think. If you're not getting close to fade don't worry about it yet

 

I haven't tracked my Fox, 300+whp, stock brakes, 3.5" wide fronts.... yeah... heheh

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I did an HPDE at Rockingham in my '04 GT, rear pads had PLENTY of meat on them when I got to the track. After just one session, pads were gone and were chewin' into the rear rotors.

Luckily, there was an Autozone nearby.

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I did an HPDE at Rockingham in my '04 GT, rear pads had PLENTY of meat on them when I got to the track. After just one session, pads were gone and were chewin' into the rear rotors.

Luckily, there was an Autozone nearby.

 

were they racing pads or just average Pepboys pads?? just wondering thanks for the advice

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  • 3 weeks later...

I have a '93 Celica GT that I run once in awhile in HPDE 3 that has over 150K miles. I first focused on what would keep the car reliable and safe, e.g. replace the timing belt, complete tune-up, performance brake pads (EBC "Yellow") with stock rotors, all synthetic fluids (to include Super Blue ATE brake fluid), etc. and it runs great shifting at 5700 RPMs with no issues (knock on wood...) I think with a Ford Mustang - regular oil changes and quality oil filter, e.g, Baldwin, AMSoil and WIX, run synthetic in your differential and transmission (if allowed by the manufacturer).

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