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Does this classify as an engine swap?


bossman429

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Nope, its classified as if it were a brand new car - which has to be done by Greg, which is why you send it in. What you get back very well may not be that close to the adjusted hp/weight limit of the class. Factors like handling, aero, etc will push it downward away from that cap for sure... My reclass is about ~1.5 or so away from the cap for example (likely due to mid-engine weight balance, decent factory handling, decent factory aero, etc).

 

So basically Greg is God as we are just his minions.

 

 

Greg, Do you take bribes?

 

In all honesty, would you mind re-classing a car prior to me doing the work on it. I want to make sure I wont be bumped up to TTA. I can give you call the information in an email, if you dont mind running through the exercise.

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btw - if I'd have copied the whole section this would've been alot shorter debate

 

B. WEIGHT REDUCTION:

Weight reduction points are based on the actual vehicle minimum competition weight (with

driver). Removal and lightening of non-essential parts is permitted unless stated otherwise in

these rules. Modification of the OEM frame, sub-frame, and floor pan are not permitted (see

6.3.2). Removal or lightening of engine parts is permitted only as listed elsewhere in these rules:

 

Thus the block would have to be listed as allowable as a points mod or freebie. It isn't, so it can only be done under a motorswap reclassification...

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Nope, its classified as if it were a brand new car - which has to be done by Greg, which is why you send it in. What you get back very well may not be that close to the adjusted hp/weight limit of the class. Factors like handling, aero, etc will push it downward away from that cap for sure... My reclass is about ~1.5 or so away from the cap for example (likely due to mid-engine weight balance, decent factory handling, decent factory aero, etc).

 

So basically Greg is God as we are just his minions.

 

 

Greg, Do you take bribes?

 

In all honesty, would you mind re-classing a car prior to me doing the work on it. I want to make sure I wont be bumped up to TTA. I can give you call the information in an email, if you dont mind running through the exercise.

 

I prefer to think of him as a spiritual entity of choice

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In all honesty, would you mind re-classing a car prior to me doing the work on it. I want to make sure I wont be bumped up to TTA. I can give you call the information in an email, if you dont mind running through the exercise.

 

I can say that he did this for me and it is what kept me focused on running my car in TTE instead of assuming it was going to be a TTD car.

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In all honesty, would you mind re-classing a car prior to me doing the work on it. I want to make sure I wont be bumped up to TTA. I can give you call the information in an email, if you dont mind running through the exercise.

 

You have to live with the warts on your frog. If it is something you really want to do - do it and live with the reclass.

My frog has lots of warts including a really heavy driver and no front camber. The OEM 350 has a little power but really didn't have the grunt I wanted off the turns. When I put the 383 in I got it weighed and dyno'd sent Greg the weight I wanted to use and the dyno graph and a statement that the tune I had was a default tune and I might pick up a little more HP with a better tune. He sent me back three possible base classes using my weight number. each base class had a max RWHP number. IIRC it was TTB, TTB* or TTB** (I can only use this one if I have enough points to go to TTA, shoot the 275 R6 does that).

 

Good luck and play by the rules

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In all honesty, would you mind re-classing a car prior to me doing the work on it. I want to make sure I wont be bumped up to TTA. I can give you call the information in an email, if you dont mind running through the exercise.

 

You have to live with the warts on your frog. If it is something you really want to do - do it and live with the reclass.

My frog has lots of warts including a really heavy driver and no front camber. The OEM 350 has a little power but really didn't have the grunt I wanted off the turns. When I put the 383 in I got it weighed and dyno'd sent Greg the weight I wanted to use and the dyno graph and a statement that the tune I had was a default tune and I might pick up a little more HP with a better tune. He sent me back three possible base classes using my weight number. each base class had a max RWHP number. IIRC it was TTB, TTB* or TTB** (I can only use this one if I have enough points to go to TTA, shoot the 275 R6 does that).

 

Good luck and play by the rules

 

Luckily this isn't a wart, but rather a tattoo and optional lol. Just want to find out where i would be base classed if I do this. If its not going to let me be competitive then I wont do it, and pursue another means to shave seconds.

 

Thanks for the input/edumication guys, i'll see what Greg comes back with

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  • 3 weeks later...

Aha! This is a bit late, but I knew I read about the engine block swap somewhere, and I just stumbled across it whilst wondering about installing a torque arm. Scroll down to the "Clarifications:"

 

http://www.nasa-tt.com/Rules/p2005_articleid/30

 

Clarification--Engine Blocks: Aftermarket engine blocks made by

companies other than your car's original manufacturer, or those

made by your manufacturer, but that are not identical to your

original equipment constitute an ENGINE SWAP. It doesn't matter

if they are the same displacement as OEM. All engine swaps

need to be assessed by the Regional and National TT Director

on an individual basis. These blocks allow for a much more

"aggressive" modified rebuild due to their higher cylinder wall

strenth, yet the rebuild would otherwise cost the same number

of points as someone with the same size block that could not be

as aggressive. We will charge you points accordingly, depending

on the situation.

 

Mark

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  • 2 weeks later...

Greg wouldn't let me buy a new block from Mazda to replace the one on my blown engine in my 99 Miata without dyno classing because the block has a supersceded part number which is the same for all 1.8 Miatas now. It's still cast iron and everything. It really seems like NASA wants cars to be dyno classed so they don't have to worry about engine tear downs.

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Is there a way to show that the blocks are identical in every meaningful way?

To the best of my knowledge there's no performance advantage from one 1.8 block to another. I figured that since Mazda made the latest block the replacement for earlier years that would mean they're essentially the same. The performance upgrades were done with heads and higher compression pistons.

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