mcmmotorsports1548534724 Posted May 27, 2006 Share Posted May 27, 2006 How many of you are using the Autopower Bolt in Cages? After reading the CCR rules, this is probably the only option for me since all of the race car shops within 100 miles don't use Mandrel benders. Any other ideas or cages available? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rocketman Posted May 27, 2006 Share Posted May 27, 2006 I've got the AutoPower cage in my SN95. I think it is really lacking when compared to a well built roll cage - especially in the door bar section. I'll probably try and finish out 2006 with it and then get a custom cage done over the winter. Just my opinion/perception. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcmmotorsports1548534724 Posted May 27, 2006 Author Share Posted May 27, 2006 Can you just have some door bars welded? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rocketman Posted May 27, 2006 Share Posted May 27, 2006 I'm no structural engineer so I can't give you an answer that means anything, but once you've seen the AutoPower cage you'd probably come to a similar conclusion: No. The bolt-in cage is just that, bolt in. But it hardly provides any firm mounting points for additional welded bars and my ignorant opinion leads me to beleive you'd be wasting your time/effort/money. Others here could probably give a better more meaningful answer. I'm going to swallow the expense and get a cage built, if nothing else it makes me "feel" safer. I have a good one in my AI car and looking around at the bolt in cage in my CMC car doesn't give me that same warm fuzzy that I'll be protected should I take someone's grille in the drivers door. YMMV. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcmmotorsports1548534724 Posted May 27, 2006 Author Share Posted May 27, 2006 Thanks for the input, I am putting the feelers out there to see if I can find some DOM Mandrel kits that I can weld in myself. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Al F. Posted May 27, 2006 Members Share Posted May 27, 2006 I know some guys have gotten custom cage bars bent and shipped to them and then a local shop welded it together. Wolfe Race Craft, I believe, is the name of the shop. Do some searching either here or at www.frrax.com and I'm sure you'll find some threads about that. I'm kind of shocked that you're in NC and cant find a shop that does cages for roundy round cars Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rcpilot92 Posted May 27, 2006 Share Posted May 27, 2006 Try this site.. https://www.cachassisworks.com/iwwidb.pvx?;multi_item_submit?FORM_SELECT=C?CAT_LVL=0?CAT=CHASISWORK Chris Alston's Chassis Works... I have one of his weld in kits and it's all quality... the PO of my car ordered the kit from him so I don't know how the ordering process/shipping works, it came with the mounting plates included, after trial fitting the main hoop and forward tubes they will need to be trimmed a bit to fit, but it will be a nice snug against the roof line and pillars Summit anf Jegs sell weld in kits also but I have no knowledge of their stuff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcmmotorsports1548534724 Posted May 27, 2006 Author Share Posted May 27, 2006 I just sent an email to them. Thanks for the link. Summit and Jeg's stuff I don't think is DOM. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carson Posted May 27, 2006 Share Posted May 27, 2006 FYI "snug fit" doesnt mean touching any part of interior of car, except of course ,where welded to mounting plates . otherwise you git a very anoying sound everytime the car wants to flex .... sooo my tip is to leave a .25 inch gap around cage bars... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glenn Posted May 27, 2006 Share Posted May 27, 2006 2 things here. 1st - i use Wolfe as i'm very close to them. they do not stock DOM tubing. if you want a cage bent by them w/ DOM you will have to have it shipped to them. i take what i need for the main hoop and A-pillar bars to them and pay $15 per bend. i build the rest of the cage in house. i've done 3 in the last 1.5 years w/ another comming up just after June 17th race weekend. 2nd - ALL cages that you can get from Jegs and Summit are not DOM. if you want a DOM cage from one of there suppliers, contact them directly. i find it odd you cand find a cage builder w/ a mandrel bender. thats the only way TUBING is suposed to be bent. i wouldnt think they would be using a pipe bender. by the way, i work w/ 4th gen cars, so if i can help you more, let me know. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rcpilot92 Posted May 28, 2006 Share Posted May 28, 2006 I did'nt mean they touch the roof line or pillars but as Carson said about a 1/4 inch works good... all I have to do is trim the bars a bit to get the desired space/gap... BTW Carson: do you have a lap top with ya at the track?? Or did'nt ya make it to T-Hill Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carson Posted May 28, 2006 Share Posted May 28, 2006 Hey Scott .... no lap top but I've got a palm pilot..... write my notes on my hand...... decided to stayed home and check my wheels for cracks... talk to your bro ?.. how about a update.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Barker Posted May 28, 2006 Share Posted May 28, 2006 Have you checked out kirk racing products ? They have some real nice cage kits at real fair prices. I have one in my third gen firebird and Ed Hamilton has one in his 89 mustang. They are located in Alabama so shipping shouldn't be to bad either. Here is there web site http://www.kirkracing.com/ hope this helps... John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcmmotorsports1548534724 Posted May 28, 2006 Author Share Posted May 28, 2006 Thanks for the link John. I take it that they are DOM and Mandrel bent then? For the money, I would hope so. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rcpilot92 Posted May 28, 2006 Share Posted May 28, 2006 Hey Scott .... no lap top but I've got a palm pilot.....write my notes on my hand...... decided to stayed home and check my wheels for cracks... talk to your bro ?.. how about a update.... Talked to Kevin yesterday.. he said it was a very crowded qualifying run.. he did'nt fair well.. Tony ran a away with the qualifying and the race with Brady's car Brady is to return today to race his car.. Brett made it back out a did O.K., his car under acceleration blows black/grey smoke, running a little ritch under load, then it would taper off in the straights, but it's is running the guy who bought Tony's/Greg's red Fox car blew the motor yesterday... he lost the rear end in Tony's old sn95 at Sears and now the motor this weekend.. not good luck at all I have'nt talked to him today... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin Hall Posted May 30, 2006 Share Posted May 30, 2006 My son helped me build our car and is working on a 3rd Gen Camaro for the 2006 Grassroots Challenge. He also happens to work for FNO racecars in Concord NC building late models, ARCA, Busch, etc cars. Since the DOM is what is used in Cup, Busch, etc, maybe they can help you out. I had an Autopower bar in my TR3, but a skilled fabricator can put one in that fits so much better, as well as installing an aluminum race seat exactly where it fits you. If it is all welded up like a Stock car, you'll be more likely to survive a driverside door hit. Kevin Hall So Cal Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin Hall Posted May 30, 2006 Share Posted May 30, 2006 My son helped me build our car and is working on a 3rd Gen Camaro for the 2006 Grassroots Challenge. He also happens to work for FNO racecars in Concord NC building late models, ARCA, Busch, etc cars. Since the DOM is what is used in Cup, Busch, etc, maybe they can help you out. I had an Autopower bar in my TR3, but a skilled fabricator can put one in that fits so much better, as well as installing an aluminum race seat exactly where it fits you. If it is all welded up like a Stock car, you'll be more likely to survive a driverside door hit. Kevin Hall So Cal Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pat Stone1548534713 Posted May 31, 2006 Share Posted May 31, 2006 The tip from John Barker was right on. I've seen Kirks cage kit installed and it puts auto power to shame. Hands down the best Kit you can buy. Forget bolt in. It's a waste of time and effort. You "do" want to have that warm and fuzzy when your going 100 plus. Do a good job of tying them into the rocker boxes too. You don't want to cheap on the main safety piece in your car. Hope this helps. Pat Stone Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcmmotorsports1548534724 Posted May 31, 2006 Author Share Posted May 31, 2006 Yes, it does help. Thanks. I have located a roll cage builder out of VA who can build me a weld in kit for $499. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Pryor1548534703 Posted May 31, 2006 Share Posted May 31, 2006 Just a word of caution....that price sounds way too low...if this builder is doing a one off kit the amount of labor to get it right is going to be trmendous and with materials and labor $499 sounds low by half...a basic weldin cage from a one-off shop will run you $1200-1500 up to $3000 depending on how crazy you want to go...the kirk kit and labor to fit and weld will still run you around $800....there's something wrong with your $499 figure...make sure you get DOM and not ERW and your builder is skilled in welding...rp Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcmmotorsports1548534724 Posted May 31, 2006 Author Share Posted May 31, 2006 His name is Jim Whitley and he is the owner of Roll Cage Components in Powhatan, VA. His price for $499 is for DOM .120 wall. The price is only for the cage, not labor. I will do the labor myself. http://www.rollcagecomponents.com/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glenn Posted May 31, 2006 Share Posted May 31, 2006 the cage in my 4th gen f-body took 80' of tube and that tubing unbent cost me $400. i too am worried about that price. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
King Matt1548534716 Posted May 31, 2006 Share Posted May 31, 2006 Make sure the design of that cage meets the NASA CCR and CMC-specific requirements before you start welding, otherwise you could be in for some unpleasant surprises at your first tech inspection. Even though it may be a hassle to find a builder you can work with locally, a custom-built cage fitted properly to your car is the best way to go. The benefits are numerous in terms of safety, comfort, and chassis rigidity. For example, I'll bet that prebent kit doesn't run the front downbars through the dashboard, which while not mandatory, makes for a much nicer installation. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcmmotorsports1548534724 Posted May 31, 2006 Author Share Posted May 31, 2006 The Autopower bolt-in kit, looks like this: The kit he quoted me will look like this: With the exception of two bars coming off of the top of the rear hoop to connect with the rear shock towers that is not shown. The dash will have to be modified fit the dash bar. Which, BTW, the Autopower kit doesn't even show. Now, if you guys still think this cage is not acceptable for NASA competition, let me know. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Al F. Posted June 1, 2006 Members Share Posted June 1, 2006 Interestingly enough, it isnt valid for NASA competition. That drawing is missing a diagonal brace for the main hoop. These guys are offering good advice: that price sounds too good to be true. That said, sometimes deals happen. Just ask Tony G. He comes across them more often than most of us put together. Whatever happens, be absolutely sure the cage conforms to the NASA CCR. It includes a lot more than just number of mounting points and tube size. Details like number of bends, degrees between this bar and that bar etc. have at one time or another bitten folks that have gotten cage work done by someone not familiar with the rules. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.