Jump to content

4th gen coil overs


lee33lyn

Recommended Posts

  • Members

Most roundy round shops sell coil over adapter kits that can be used to make essentially any shock that is the right length and top/bottom mount style work.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The OEM set-up is a coilover.

You can sleeve an OEM replacement shock w/ a $40 sleeve kit, you can use Unbalanced Engineering's Bilstien shocks or you can use AST's CMC 4th gen package.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

when I bought the car it had Bilstein shocks with lowering springs on it. I know the springs won't work on the track but would like to use the shocks. I've got a guy that could revalve them for the track.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ground Control as well.

 

I used these w/ great results:

http://www.daymotorsports.com/proddisp.php?ln=13359&product=AFCO+R+%26+S+SERIES+-+BIG+BODY+STEEL+COIL-OVER+KIT&partnumber=AFC-20125A&description=Kit+includes+spring+seat%2C+adjuster+nut%2C+sleeve+%285+or+7+in.%29+snap+ring%2C+pin+and+t

 

I think a 5" long sleeve will work. I used the 7's if I remember right. The snapring on the shock may need to be filed down some to allow the sleeve to fit over. I know I had to do this for the Koni's I did once. I think the price is for a pair, but call to be sure. Any local dirt track shop will have this stuff.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Dang, if its that cheap, I might go ahead and buy a pair. What springs do you need to buy then?
I am currently using a 10" free length 2.5 ID spring from HERE. The first pair I had was 8" and I think I like the longer ones a little better.

 

Find the couple of threads on rates for 4th gen; I think it's been said roughly 750/250; I'm 700/225 now and think I want to go up some.

 

Ask around, most of the setups I've seen in Texas use the top spring hat too and I don't. But then again, I'm just a mid-pack slacker.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I fyou use the sleeve kit as designed, use a 8" spring (2.5" ID). 700 rates work well. I'm on 800's now and am likely going back to the 700's. Moving to the 800's and 275 17 tire was too much of a change. 800's may work w/ 16's, but I don't like them w/ the 17's.

 

Your driving ability and style will be what dictates what rear rate you need. The goal is to balance the car. As you get faster, you will want the rear more stiff.

It is easier to make quick changes at the track on the rear of the car. Spring rates and sway bars are the big ones. Wheel spacers and other things will fine tune.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It is easier to make quick changes at the track on the rear of the car. Spring rates and sway bars are the big ones. Wheel spacers and other things will fine tune.

 

So would a simple and inexpensive way to change the wedge !!

Are you kidding me? I thought that adjustments in between sessions are discouraged, (unless you have the time and money for a separate test day). Wouldn't it be great to easily and very inexpensively raise the right rear spring 1/2" once all these changes are made in order to balance the corner weight, also?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It is easier to make quick changes at the track on the rear of the car. Spring rates and sway bars are the big ones. Wheel spacers and other things will fine tune.

 

So would a simple and inexpensive way to change the wedge !!

Are you kidding me? I thought that adjustments in between sessions are discouraged, (unless you have the time and money for a separate test day). Wouldn't it be great to easily and very inexpensively raise the right rear spring 1/2" once all these changes are made in order to balance the corner weight, also?

 

Isn't there a thread somewhere about this?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It is easier to make quick changes at the track on the rear of the car. Spring rates and sway bars are the big ones. Wheel spacers and other things will fine tune.

 

So would a simple and inexpensive way to change the wedge !!

Are you kidding me? I thought that adjustments in between sessions are discouraged, (unless you have the time and money for a separate test day). Wouldn't it be great to easily and very inexpensively raise the right rear spring 1/2" once all these changes are made in order to balance the corner weight, also?

 

Isn't there a thread somewhere about this?

 

I seem to think there was something about this somewhere ???

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I know, I have a great idea! lets start a thread to get everyones opinion on threaded spring adjusters or torque arms for mustangs.....

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So would a simple and inexpensive way to change the wedge !!

 

Set up the car so I don't have to change.

 

- Tell me how. - What do you want to know?

 

Is she running loose or tight? A turn here, take some wedge out, we'll win some races.

 

- I can't do that. I don't know what the hell you're talking about.

 

How do you mean that?

 

- I don't know much about cars.

 

Neither does any other driver.

 

- No, I really don't know. A turn here? A wedge there? I don't know.

 

How can that be?

 

- They told me to get in a car and drive.

 

Steve91T... doncha just love CMC? Tape measure said 11" - 5 1/2 OD pigtails.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So 700# front and 225# rears? 8" long 2.5" inner diameter front springs.

 

What size pigtail for the rears?

11" in those rates. 12" if you go softer.

Use the oem upper spring rubber to help set ride height to how you want it. There are 3 different ones used on 4th gens fro. 93-02.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So 700# front and 225# rears? 8" long 2.5" inner diameter front springs.

 

What size pigtail for the rears?

11" in those rates. 12" if you go softer.

Use the oem upper spring rubber to help set ride height to how you want it. There are 3 different ones used on 4th gens fro. 93-02.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

What is used in the rear to adjust height?

 

Spring free length, spacers, spring rubbers. an 11" spring in the 225-250 range will get you pretty much where you want to be.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

I need some help. I bought the AFCO coil over kit to use with my Koni adjustable shocks. My question is about the snap ring. Here is a before and after shot.

 

 

image-35.jpg

 

 

image-36.jpg

 

So, the Koni snap ring is square. The AFCO snap ring is much beefier, but round. So, using the square snap ring works, but I'm just afraid of the threaded sleeve slipping over the snap ring, which would be disastrous at speed.

 

Any help will be appreciated. I'm trying to get the car buttoned up tonight.

 

Steve

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Members

How far out does the square ring stick out? I'm assuming you dont want to use the round one because its thickness is more than the groove so it doesnt seat right?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have used a file and filed down the Koni square ring so that the snapring will fit inside the sleeve.

What matters is will the ring sit down inside the sleeve )either one). If it will, it can't spread and come out of the groove and allow the sleeve to slide down.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...