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so i started my AI build


AJ Hartman

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Heres my 99 GT that will eventually become an AI car. Cage and legal race seat are first on the list, so i can get a liscence and move up to TT, then PT, then eventually AI. Im trying to build the whole thing for less then 15K out of pocket. so far I'm at 0 dollars.

 

if anyone has a seat, or a set of 17x9 wheels, and a nice racing steering wheel let me know.

 

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front bumper took some major cutting and trimming to get to fit right.

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Cobra R stuff came with the car as part of the deal. I also have Saleen side skirts and rear bumper cover that i decided to not use. PM me if interested. All body parts are aftermarked fiberglass stuff.

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0 dollars already? was the car free ? best of luck with your build. become really good with ebay and I'm sure you can get it done for under 15k.. fyi those fiberglass front ends are not a good thing for Racing. one off and you will probably be heading into the pits with half the nose missing and the other half ready for the dumpster.

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0 dollars already? was the car free ? best of luck with your build. become really good with ebay and I'm sure you can get it done for under 15k.. fyi those fiberglass front ends are not a good thing for Racing. one off and you will probably be heading into the pits with half the nose missing and the other half ready for the dumpster.

 

Yepper on the front nose! Mine lasted 3 years but was munched up a few weeks ago...been a pretty big thrash to rebuild all that crap.

 

got pictures of the side skirts?

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easier/cheaper to change the letter on the side of the car. It might also make sense to go TT -> PT and/or CMC -> AI fwiw. Either way will be fun though

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I hear what your saying about the font end. the kit came with the car so i figured i would use it.

 

i figured TT to start out when i get my liscence, then PT to get track time around other cars and while im doing that, keep adding stuff to make it up to AI. but depending on how fast i get the car done i could to TT to AI.

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0 dollars already? was the car free ? best of luck with your build. become really good with ebay and I'm sure you can get it done for under 15k.. fyi those fiberglass front ends are not a good thing for Racing. one off and you will probably be heading into the pits with half the nose missing and the other half ready for the dumpster.

 

the car wasn't free. i traded my 89 drag car for the 99 and 500 bucks and some other stuff. so I'm actually up 500.

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easier/cheaper to change the letter on the side of the car. It might also make sense to go TT -> PT and/or CMC -> AI fwiw. Either way will be fun though

 

body parts already made it illegal for CMC...Might as well build it for AI now!

 

OP...Also, I've been running the same car and 2V mod motor combo for 4 years...if you have any questions, feel free to PM me.

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Yep, he sure wouldn't be the first guy who ends up spending an extra $25 grand to build an AI car rather than take a "cool" $300 part off the car to make it legal for CMC.

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easier/cheaper to change the letter on the side of the car. It might also make sense to go TT -> PT and/or CMC -> AI fwiw. Either way will be fun though

 

body parts already made it illegal for CMC...Might as well build it for AI now!

 

OP...Also, I've been running the same car and 2V mod motor combo for 4 years...if you have any questions, feel free to PM me.

 

 

since i have the 2V i might go that route. but i was really looking at a carbed 331 so i can loose alot a weight and just the simplicity of it. and its probably cheaper, and has a broader torque curve. any input?

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Yep, he sure wouldn't be the first guy who ends up spending an extra $25 grand to build an AI car rather than take a "cool" $300 part off the car to make it legal for CMC.

 

yeah. im one of those guys.

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easier/cheaper to change the letter on the side of the car. It might also make sense to go TT -> PT and/or CMC -> AI fwiw. Either way will be fun though

 

body parts already made it illegal for CMC...Might as well build it for AI now!

 

OP...Also, I've been running the same car and 2V mod motor combo for 4 years...if you have any questions, feel free to PM me.

 

 

since i have the 2V i might go that route. but i was really looking at a carbed 331 so i can loose alot a weight and just the simplicity of it. and its probably cheaper, and has a broader torque curve. any input?

 

Nothing about going to a 331 will be cheap. You are at least looking at a stroker crank and big bore cylinder sleeves. Or you can go to a 5.4 block which is heavier.

I would recommend that you install a set of Trick Flow heads and cams on your motor and you will make the power you need.

We did just that in Chris Durbins AI car with great results.

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Yep, he sure wouldn't be the first guy who ends up spending an extra $25 grand to build a MIDPACK AI car rather than take a "cool" $300 part off the car to make it legal and COMPETITIVE for CMC.

 

Fixed that for you!

 

Sidney

CMC #64

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King Matt wrote:

Yep, he sure wouldn't be the first guy who ends up spending an extra $25 grand to build a MIDPACK AI car rather than take a "cool" $300 part off the car to make it legal and COMPETITIVE for CMC.

 

 

Fixed that for you!

 

Sidney

CMC #64

Yep, he sure wouldn't be the first guy who ends up spending an extra $25 grand to build a MIDPACK AI car rather than take a "cool" $300 part off the car to make it legal and COMPETITIVE for CMC.

 

Fixed that for you!

 

Sidney

CMC #64

 

Yes, I am SURE TJ Bain has $50,000 in his competative AI car. Just because you can spend $100k on an AI car does not mean you have to to be competative.

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Hell, this year alone I've spent 4k on motors for my POS CMC car. But, I suppose the flip to that is if I was running AI, I'd have spent 24k....

 

Although, after running AI with TJ earlier this year, perhaps spending that 4k on more "go fast" and I'd have run him down......NOT!!

 

If/when CMC merges it's two classes at the higher hp/bigger brake/more areo level, it's going to make the choice a lot harder....

 

Or one of the 4-banger classes that much bigger......

 

KO

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If/when CMC merges it's two classes at the higher hp/bigger brake/more areo level, it's going to make the choice a lot harder....

Hey, there's an idea, we could merge CMC into the AI class structure and write the rules so the classes don't step all over each other and people would have a good entry level place to start! Oh, wait... I tried that and that's why I sold both of my CMC Mustangs and don't race with NASA anymore.

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since i have the 2V i might go that route. but i was really looking at a carbed 331 so i can loose alot a weight and just the simplicity of it. and its probably cheaper, and has a broader torque curve. any input?

 

Well, seeing that you would have to switch the k-member, the entire wiring harness, tranny and mount, driveshaft, and pretty much everything except for the rear axle and tub...I'd stay with the 2V.

 

Look for a 96-98 Mark 8 motor on Craigslist for $200, put the 2V heads on it after drilling one small hole on the driver side water jacket and lose 85lbs off the nose of the car. Get the car down to 3000lbs and a 2V with stock heads, intake, and the right cams will make all the power you need and you'd have around 2500 bucks in the motor. The weak link is the T45 but I just put together a T5 combo that bolts right up to a mod motor and it works fantastic, or you could do a T56 from an 03/04 cobra if you don't go the CMC2 route.

 

Who the hell spends $24k on a motor in AI? I think I have $10k in mine and it's on season 4 and going strong. Only reason I have that much in it is that it is a big bore motor and had the sleeves machined out and replaced. The rest is stock heads, headers and good parts. I do have a fancy intake but that was a gimmee. You could run the plastic stocker and make great power and save about 30lbs over mine. The right compression and cams can turn a 2V into a behemoth at the hands of someone who knows how to use it!

 

KM....I think your move was a little drastic honestly. You could have easily run AI for the price of a cam and a set of GT40 heads and enjoyed the sport and no longer have to deal with the clowns running CMC/2. I do agree the last 2 years have been a cluster over there but there is always a way to race, even if it were in ST2...do you have plans for 2010 yet?

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Oh, I've been enjoying the sport alright. My plans for 2010 will be the same as 2009, racing my Formula Vee in SCCA, although next year I will try to go to the Runoffs since they are being held 40 minutes from my house.

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Yes, I am SURE TJ Bain has $50,000 in his competative AI car. Just because you can spend $100k on an AI car does not mean you have to to be competative.

 

$50,000

 

I'll sell mine right now for half that and build another one just to populate the class! I'll even throw in what's left of the $50 roll of plastic from Coleman so they can have 3 spare aero packages.

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Oh, I've been enjoying the sport alright. My plans for 2010 will be the same as 2009, racing my Formula Vee in SCCA, although next year I will try to go to the Runoffs since they are being held 40 minutes from my house.

 

Ah...didn't realize you still had cars in the garage! You should figure out a way to put a V8 in the FV though....they just don't have the right sound!

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$50,000

 

I'll sell mine right now for half that and build another one just to populate the class! I'll even throw in what's left of the $50 roll of plastic from Coleman so they can have 3 spare aero packages.

Yes, I am SURE TJ Bain has $50,000 in his competative AI car. Just because you can spend $100k on an AI car does not mean you have to to be competative.

 

$50,000

 

I'll sell mine right now for half that and build another one just to populate the class! I'll even throw in what's left of the $50 roll of plastic from Coleman so they can have 3 spare aero packages.

I was being sarcastic for those of you who don't know. I know TJ has a lot less than $50,000 (probably less than half of that) in his competative AI car.

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I wonder if he's adding up the cost of all the parts he broke 3, 4, or 5 times, then replaced with parts that would last, along with the associated cost of lost time, travel and entry fees, and general hassle of breaking the car literally every time it went on track the first couple of years he raced it?

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I wonder if he's adding up the cost of all the parts he broke 3, 4, or 5 times, then replaced with parts that would last, along with the associated cost of lost time, travel and entry fees, and general hassle of breaking the car literally every time it went on track the first couple of years he raced it?

 

Yep, it's somewhere under $25k even with all the broken stuff. It's a grand total of (7) T5s and (4) 10-bolts in three years. I finally figured out that running junkyard parts doesn't work. I don't consider the lost time an additional cost, I consider it a character building exercise. How many other guys can say they switched diffs/gears at Road America into a housing we sprayed out with a hose to get the metal out then pounded it together with a 2x4 and a hammer?...

 

Everything is a learning experience though. I can now change a trans from wheels up/wheels down in <2 hours and having to do all that crap at the track taught me to make the car easy to thrash on. It also made me realize how important spares are. Even if the spares are crap and don't have much life, it might be the difference between racing and going home.

 

However, I have realized how much my driving is/was lacking this year due to low seat time caused by broken crap. This year is a little different. I do have 2 DNSs, but no DNFs

 

AJ: Sorry to hijack your thread, but learn from other's experiences, it's a lot cheaper.

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