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so i started my AI build


AJ Hartman

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Nice work. The HARTMAN on the rims is a cool attention to detail. I like it.

 

I'm right in the middle of finally building the engine for the AI car I bought in '07 and going through the car doing a bunch of sorting and prep. Who knew dropping a full fuel tank to swap fuel pumps really isn't THAT heavy, I know now.

 

I see we both have black race cars. As if its not hot enough in a race car already huh??? haha Have you thought about putting any insulation inside the car on the underside of the roof? I have some thermotech lightweight insulation I was thinking of gluing to the roof. Keep me from cooking under the sun in a black race car. I've even thought of painting the roof silver or go with a two tone paint job, silver on top w/ black on the sides.

 

Ive had more fun working on this race car than I ever did on my other vehicles. That's even while being crammed into a 20'x30' two car garage with my '97 dodge ram, 99 mustang cobra and 00 mustang gt on casters sitting sideways at the front of the garage!!! Smart use of space and being damn careful not to ding the other vehicles has been key.

 

Anthony

 

DOHC, FR500 bits, most of the MM catalog,

DSC04097.jpg

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Looks good. I do have a suggestion (since you brought it up)

 

On the down tubes to the rear shock towers, from the main hoop, add another small leg and a base plate to the trunk floor next to the shock towers. Hope that makes sense.

 

Dave

 

Good catch!

That cage won't pass tech unless those down tubes continue to the floor and welded to a 9 square inch base plate.

 

Edit: plate size correction

Edited by Guest
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You will also fail tech because those are the old NASA stickers and are now illegal. I think the new penalty includes prison time.

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You will also fail tech because those are the old NASA stickers and are now illegal. I think the new penalty includes prison time.

 

Only on the left coast.

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Looks good. I do have a suggestion (since you brought it up)

 

On the down tubes to the rear shock towers, from the main hoop, add another small leg and a base plate to the trunk floor next to the shock towers. Hope that makes sense.

 

Dave

 

Good catch!

That cage won't pass tech unless those down tubes continue to the floor and welded to a 9 square inch base plate.

 

Edit: plate size correction

A lot of people make this mistake for some reason. Down tubes should go DOWN to the shocktowers.

 

Looks great! Can't wait to see you out there.

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Looks good. I do have a suggestion (since you brought it up)

 

On the down tubes to the rear shock towers, from the main hoop, add another small leg and a base plate to the trunk floor next to the shock towers. Hope that makes sense.

 

Dave

 

I actually already did, the pictures are prior to me doing that tho.

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Nice work. The HARTMAN on the rims is a cool attention to detail. I like it.

 

I'm right in the middle of finally building the engine for the AI car I bought in '07 and going through the car doing a bunch of sorting and prep. Who knew dropping a full fuel tank to swap fuel pumps really isn't THAT heavy, I know now.

 

I see we both have black race cars. As if its not hot enough in a race car already huh??? haha Have you thought about putting any insulation inside the car on the underside of the roof? I have some thermotech lightweight insulation I was thinking of gluing to the roof. Keep me from cooking under the sun in a black race car. I've even thought of painting the roof silver or go with a two tone paint job, silver on top w/ black on the sides.

 

Ive had more fun working on this race car than I ever did on my other vehicles. That's even while being crammed into a 20'x30' two car garage with my '97 dodge ram, 99 mustang cobra and 00 mustang gt on casters sitting sideways at the front of the garage!!! Smart use of space and being damn careful not to ding the other vehicles has been key.

 

Anthony

 

DOHC, FR500 bits, most of the MM catalog,

DSC04097.jpg

 

 

I also thought about the heat issue. was thinking about a 2 tone with a white roof and paint all the inderior white but think that might look kinda like a police car. I do have a paint scheme in mind but will probably just put up with it or suck it up and buy a cool suit.

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Looks good. I do have a suggestion (since you brought it up)

 

On the down tubes to the rear shock towers, from the main hoop, add another small leg and a base plate to the trunk floor next to the shock towers. Hope that makes sense.

 

Dave

 

Good catch!

That cage won't pass tech unless those down tubes continue to the floor and welded to a 9 square inch base plate.

 

Edit: plate size correction

A lot of people make this mistake for some reason. Down tubes should go DOWN to the shocktowers.

 

Looks great! Can't wait to see you out there.

 

this is all your fault jimmy. if you never took me for a ride in your car at NJMP last summer I wouldn't have gotten to this point haha. we'll see if it was all worth it next weekend. maybe i can make it to a race at summit pt later this year.

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...
fyi those fiberglass front ends are not a good thing for Racing. one off and you will probably be heading into the pits with half the nose missing and the other half ready for the dumpster.

 

 

not to be argumentative, but how would that be any different than the stock nose,?

other than perhaps being a little harder to snag, in that "one off" situation.

seems like whatever gets snagged in a one off, is gonna get torn up, be hanging by a vein, and end your race session (if not weekend).

 

sounds like more a urethane vs fiberglass difference?

to what degree is it a height/ground clearance issue with the cobra r syle?

 

i ask because i was about to order one of those fibergalss Cobra-R bumper covers, for my 98, as i get closer to AI readiness.

was also considering the saleen style cover, and an add-on splitter.

 

i am trying to find something with nice fog light opening for brake-duct inlets, and better aero.

 

the current 98 stock cobra bumper cover has great fog light openings, and is probable the least likely to snag in a "one-off", but not much aero, and doesnt seem to lend itself as well to attacking a chin splitter.

 

ideas and recommendations?

thanks;

doc

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Yeah, make the front end out of Home depot materials and roll plastic. That way you can fix it for $0.99 with rivots, tape and zip ties.

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Yeah, make the front end out of Home depot materials and roll plastic. That way you can fix it for $0.99 with rivots, tape and zip ties.

 

Stuff like that will put you on the podium at nationals....

 

The saleen nose makes a great starting point for a simple splitter arangement. The 2000R nose sits pretty low and weighs a ton in urethane and sort of affects how low you can get the car. the saleen nose sits a little higher, will allow you to lower the car more near minimum ride height and then build a correct splitter. You could also go the full on route and build a flat nose similar to mine....just requires more fab time.

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Urethane is heavier, but it's also more resilient after a wreck. Make some aluminum backing plates and some pop rivets and it's pretty much in the same shape it was before. If the car already has one on it, the price is right too.

 

I wouldn't worry about aero mods too much until you do the seat time mod. Putting your butt in the seat is worth more then any lip spoiler or splitter at this point.

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Yeah, make the front end out of Home depot materials and roll plastic. That way you can fix it for $0.99 with rivots, tape and zip ties.

 

Pretty much what I did... easily removable for trailer loading. Splitter is an ex-nascar COT carbon fiber one off ebay, adjustable from 2" to 4" off nose. Copied from a design found on CC, so don't mind sharing... Doubt it'll withstand a major off, but it wasn't difficult or $$ to build.

 

IMG_0135.jpg

 

IMG_0134.jpg

 

Extension on steering rack bolts, the square tubing on the rear of the splitter slide over these...

IMG_0133.jpg

 

Brake ducts off air box so don't have to screw with them when mounting nose... fans move plenty of air!

IMG_0129.jpg

 

In place.... minus the fasteners.

IMG_0138.jpg

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Urethane is heavier, but it's also more resilient after a wreck. Make some aluminum backing plates and some pop rivets and it's pretty much in the same shape it was before. If the car already has one on it, the price is right too.

 

I wouldn't worry about aero mods too much until you do the seat time mod. Putting your butt in the seat is worth more then any lip spoiler or splitter at this point.

 

Ditto!

Get out on track and tune as you go!

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  • 1 year later...
made some window that just pop in and out for storage and hauling.

racecar031.jpg

Do you have any more details on how you built the removable window? I need to do the same thing, and my car is stored outdoors.

 

Mark

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I just went to HD or Lowes and got some Plexi glass (doesn't have to be lexan) and got some quick release pins while I was there and drilled some holes.

 

I kinda forgot about this thread so I guess its time for some updates.

 

The noticable ones are obviously the paint and splitter. I can stand anywhere on my splitter, feet together, and bounce up and down and the car will start to bounce with me. So I feel its plenty strong.

 

IMG_0126.jpg

IMG_0127.jpg

garagespec1.jpg

207016_10150215317597533_210344617532_8391381_7521385_n.jpg

 

Others were an adjustable prop. valve, removed some more stuff, some suspension tweaks, stuff that is pretty much cheap, or free. Car is 3030 with almost a full tank and me in it but I only dynoed at 252hp. So do the math and I'm not setting the world on fire. Ran into a few budget issues that slowed the progress more than I would have liked. But I do have a Mach 1 engine sitting in my garage that I have plans for but do not need the heads. So if anyone is interested in the heads send me a PM.

 

Heres the latest update. Happened today during practice. The hood pin monster got me. He must have snuck up while I wasn't looking and undid my hood pins.

IMG_0287.jpg

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I just went to HD or Lowes and got some Plexi glass (doesn't have to be lexan) and got some quick release pins while I was there and drilled some holes.

 

Heres the latest update. Happened today during practice. The hood pin monster got me. He must have snuck up while I wasn't looking and undid my hood pins.

IMG_0287.jpg

 

That sucks. I just did that myself.

 

At least you know someone who can fix it!

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AJ,

That sucks. There are two types of racers out there:

1. Those who have forgotten their hood pins and had their hoods fly up.

2. Those who will.

 

It's not a question of "if", but a question of "when".

 

 

My initiation was during a HPDE in 2004... Luckily I had gutted the hood and it didn't break the windshield or do much roof damage.

 

I'm assuming you had a full hood with all the supporting structure, based on the carnage it caused...???

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I'm certainly not calling myself above it - because it's bound to happen sooner or later, but to minimize the risk, I've put two short check-lists on the far left side of my dash. One says "DRIVER" and one says "CREW". As I sit on the grid or get ready to go out, I go down my list, and the crewmember (whoever that unlucky soul is) goes down their side.

 

The DRIVER said includes things like: Helmet, Chinstrap, Gloves, HANS, mirrors, brake check, water psi, etc.

 

The CREW side includes: Tire PSI set, Lugs torqued, Hood pins in, Doors secured, Radio Check, Window net up, Fuel level, etc.

 

The two lists have surely saved me missed track time, and potentially costly errors.

 

I'd recommend any racer take the time to make up two lists that correspond to their own car, safety equipment, and habits, and then put them somewhere they're easily visible from inside AND outside the car. These lists also become a huge help when you have a new-ish crewmember who's not used to racing.

 

Scott

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AJ,

That sucks. There are two types of racers out there:

1. Those who have forgotten their hood pins and had their hoods fly up.

2. Those who will.

 

It's not a question of "if", but a question of "when".

 

Marshall is spot on. My initiation was the Hallett Shelby club meet in '04 or '05. Managed to get a new windshield installed in just enough time for the exhibition race. It was an expensive fix - on Fox Mustangs, when the hood flies up, the hinges will pull the entire cowl down, besides smashing the windshield and damaging the roof. F'n PITA.

 

For those who do not have crew members at events, get into a hard-and-fast habit. Whenever you close the hood, ALWAYS set the hood pins. No matter what. Do it every time. Even if it's in the garage. Or parked in/on your trailer. In the pits. It doesn't matter - you aren't saving yourself any time by leaving them out. You are, however, saving yourself a metric shit-ton of grief, and money, by reinstalling them every single time.

 

Once you get into the habit, you'll never have to think about it.

 

Nick Steel got bit by the hood-pin monster a second time ( ) at BW a few weeks ago - his car died unexpectedly in the pits, he got out to figure out what was going on, opened the hood and left the hood pins on the ground. His hood came up on L3 of qualifying, ending his weekend.

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AJ,

That sucks. There are two types of racers out there:

1. Those who have forgotten their hood pins and had their hoods fly up.

2. Those who will.

 

It's not a question of "if", but a question of "when".

 

 

My initiation was during a HPDE in 2004... Luckily I had gutted the hood and it didn't break the windshield or do much roof damage.

 

I'm assuming you had a full hood with all the supporting structure, based on the carnage it caused...???

 

This is why i dont feel too bad about it. It happens way too often. Even McLaren F1 has dumb mistakes like when they left one of the side pod plugs in Lewis Hamiltons car at the 2010 GP of Monacco. I like scotts idea of the list. I have no crew so it would just have to be one list I should just get in the habbit of going over.

 

And to answer you question about the damage, I was doing I guess about 120mph when it finally flew up. so when the hood hit the top of the window frame where it is stong, at that speed it just snapped the remaining part of the hood still above that point back onto the roof.

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